docc

You might try repositioning your intake air sensor and/or provide some air flow to it (I recall yours is mounted in a canister or such.) There has been some considerable debate about the Engine Temperature Sensor. IMO, it's worth looking into. FWIW, I totally agree with Tom's approach to tuning. I suppose we should update the FAQ with the alternative, simplified method.

Is the mV at idle setting the only thing different about the MI method? (most of us have found that something around 530 mV is best) Otherwise, when my tach shows 1400 rpm that is 1100.

For certain, changing valve settings can affect the throttle body synch. And setting the ECU CO to zero is also good medicine.

The VDST would be good to confirm your CO is zeroed. My Sport was delivered at MINUS 27. Also, good to confirm your tachometer error to insure idle accuracy (my Veglia reads 300 rpm high and I've heard 500 is not uncommon). Everything else, you can do with your tools and taking the time. I'm not sure it's mentioned in the tuning thread, but setting a strong fan in front of the motor during the tuning process will help keep the engine temps from going too high.

I love it! An Eldorado rat bike.

Nasty Hiccups in hot ambient temps have been a common aggravation. Various known attempts at improvement include: removing the air intake snorkels, opening the air bleed screws to a full turn, loosening the valve lash, increasing the idle speed, securing the 30 amp regulator fuse, securing all of the relays and connections (including regulator grounding), modifying the Engine Temperature Sensor. It only gets better!

While I do use a "jam nut" on the white linkage knob, I've never found my air screws to walk. I favor the "full turn" setting and always find them where I left them last. I do like using the mercury sticks, partly for their socially unacceptable danger (my kids do seem a bit odd at times), but for their atavistic appeal - how could anyone tune a 2 valve, push rod twin any other way? Motowfo and I had some fun balancing his Coppa with the TwinMax and then checking it with the mercury sticks . . . . it was perfect and the mercury would make it no better. I'm sure I broke numerous transport regulations just driving the scary things across county lines on federal highways, but it was worth it to report that the digital solution is reliable and more than adequate. That, and I had been plied with Imperial Stout . . .

That's a huge disparity in air screws. Makes me think something else has been amiss. Be certain to adjust the valves to a proper spec "stone cold." Fit fresh plugs and synch the throttle bodies. Dave Richardson once noted this same phenomenon in Guzziology: when you tweak the idle it changes the TPS, when you tweak the TPS it changes the idle. But they keep converging as you work so don't give up. Also, realize your tach my read high, so trying to tune at an indicated 1100 could be expecting the motor to be happy at 750 or 800 rpm (it won't be). Yes, the hi-idle cam is the "choke" gizmo. Voltage is read between the positive (black/purple) and the negative (purple).

Such a dark topic . . .

It looks like a simple mix of body parts black/silver. The wheels look silver in the Dutch photo. The decals on the tail and side covers look unchanged (Does it say "TT" anywhere?). Otherwise, it should be mechanically no different than a standard Sport. Yet, Carl obviously did a lot to this bike - it's not the one he called "FrankenSport?"

The 150 mV is for completely closed throttle with the rod disconnected, no stop screw contact, no fast idle cam contact. Your reading looks like there must be some contact. The right idle screw is on the inboard side of the back of the throttle body (vary hard to see/ adjust and one more reason to back it fully out); The fast idle cam and cable are under the front of the right throttle body and will also interfere with the 150 mV closed throttle plate setting. Not entirely sure what you mean by top and bottom wires as the voltage is read between them in millivolts DC. Pinned thread in FAQ for reference: TPS Setup and Throttle Balance Tuning

I'm not sure I recall a "TT" trim level? What year model? Do you have a picture?

You can tell a fine man when his character comes across languages, lines of nations, and even through an internet forum. Fine fellow, indeed .

"Fastenal" may be source for the fasteners if you have one nearby. If you like, pm me with your location and maybe we can compare notes in person. I'm an hour or so south of Nashville. Kudos on the Coppa!

24,000 miles and 4 years since my MAXI fuse change and all's well with it. As many of you may recall or have read, I tried several other solutions first. See the long, drawn out thread "Nasty Hiccup" for a compendium of various things that contribute to the hiccup including: regulator issues, broken stator wire, crappy coil output connection, faulty TPS, Engine Temperature Sensor . . . I also shoot for a 5,000 mile tune-up interval for valve adjustment, fresh plugs, and throttle body balance. I don't monkey with the TPS and idle anymore after doing it repeatedly over a period of two or three years.

Hi, Rhino! Sweet looking V11 and you're in the right place (here!) to help make her "just so." You are right about the '02-'03 holdover. Do a search (by "relevance"/ not "last update") on 2002 LeMans issues. There are a couple really thorough threads on what to be aware of. Otherwise, looks like it comes with some nice extra goodies. It's always telling to page through the workshop manual and see what sections the thumbprints are in!

Well, there is a "shim" on the timing sensor that can be "adjusted." Closer = earlier BTDC? Thicker = later BTDC? (idk) Just in case the weather turns off bad and you need something more to tinker around with . . .

I hear circus music playing in the distance . . .

I actually just carry half of one with the corners rounded, clip it in the the lock pliers for sawing and use the thickness for gapping plugs. I have a length of stainless steel safety wire as well - is that "gangion" wire?

Extra tools, zip-ties, Extreme tape, air compressor (Slime brand) with plug kit (Miruni Earth Stick), zip-ties, rags, test light, volt-ohm meter, zip-ties, siphon tube, long nose vice-grips, cork screw, bottle opener, hack saw blade (0.026" feeler gauge), zip-ties, Leatherman tool, 6 mil black nitrile gloves, LED headband flashlight, wiring diagram, zip-ties, hex drives, spare bulbs and fuses and relays. Did I mention the zip-ties?

I think that might be Guy in the background tugging up his trousers . . .

1) No paste required. 2) How do you propose to attach your new acetal holder to the existing base? (Less mass is the goal with this modification and a simple short length of threaded copper rod works well). 3) 5mm air gap

Copied/ pasted and posted in FAQ. Fuel Regulator alternative

Posted 8-5-2012, 12:22 AM on Technical Topics by member "twinsrule" If you're in the market for a Fuel Pressure Regulator for your '02 Guzzi and you don't want to pay the exorbitant "dealer" price of 270.00+ USD, then NAPA auto parts is your savior. The NAPA P/N is MC26011 and costs around 57.00 USD + shipping if you order it online. It is a Weber part, it's a 3bar, and it fit my '02 Tenni. The part is also a replacement for 95-01 Harley's equipped with EFI. Mine ceased regulating and fuel was blowing by the injector o-rings and I agave up after a couple attempts of cleaning it. Gootsie is happy again and getting ridden after 3 months of down time. My apologies if this old news here. Link to part here --Pete

They are actually not hex but Torx and it is a good move to replace them with hex fasteners making them so much easier to fettle with a simple 90 degree angled hex tool. The yellow paint is there to help you find the things that need messing with.