docc

Blade fuses need to be pulled out to check them. Not as obvious as the glass versions. (you sure you want to admit to even knowing of their existence?) Other than the trouble with the melting 30 amp regulator fuse (See "Nasty Hiccup" thread), I doubt you have a fuse problem . Sounds like the battery. After that, we'll get into the regulator, the relay bases, and the yellow stator wires under the alternator cover . . . Hey, but only we if we need to. What's Italian for, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it?"

Replacing a spring that's not broken may not give you much satisfaction . . . And a glowing neutral light probably implicates the neutral switch. Some folks have pulled them out and cleaned them to good effect, but otherwise the switch might be ready for a change. It powers the middle relay, so making sure that relay is good to go is simple. (It's called the "Side Stand Relay," but it is energized by the neutral switch.) How much "squeeze play" is in your clutch lever? (up and down wobble is not important)

Ryan, I can tell you that you are in the right place! It might take some tinkering, but these folks are super at helping one another get these nice Guzzis going! First, do you have a digital Volt-ohm meter? It would be a good investment of about $50 to get a decent one. I'm thinkin' your gonna need it! For certain, the clicking suggests the battery is ready for a change. The Hawker odyssey PC 545 has a good reputation in these bikes. If you take off the seat, you can access the battery, the relays (on the right side near the back), and the fuses (left side in back). The regulator fuse is the 30 amp job in position 3. They are bad for melting without "blowing." Our buddy. Orangeokie, was always fond of saying "Know the Rules" which he linked to a post reminding us to keep a fresh battery and the best available relays. I think the PO gave you some good advice on starting points to get the bike up and running. Then, we'll go from there! (BTW: When using the search function, make your initial search, then sort by "relevance" and click "update.")

Glad to hear you're back in the saddle! It is much appreciated when folks follow up on their threads. So many of us are in this for the long haul! After my second rear drive gear oil change to Redline Heavy (the red stuff), my vent also began to weep. Figuring I over filled, I let a little out. It seemed better for a while, then the big seal gave out. Trying to gauge the refill, I found a miserable time trying to get the right level. That stuff is so thick and tacky, I'll bet some 50 ml stays in the internals even draining when hot. I had 10 ml stick in glass graduated cylinder! My new seal has been weepy. I opened the level plug and just let the thing sit for hours while maybe 4 or 5 ml drizzled out. Then I drained another 5-6 ml (hard to gauge). So far, the weep looks better, but overfilling is a distinct challenge with the RedLine Shockproof. One of its drawbacks, to be sure.

" I'm gonna hurl myself against the wall . . .":grin:

Docc, I think Guzzi moved away from the bevel drive because they had a tendency to self destruct. I'm on my 3rd! Birddawg Definitely best to epoxy in the circular metal plate before it jumps ship and takes the internal gear with it. I use JB Weld just to be sure the little bugger knows I mean business.

Try turning the ignition switch to "park" position and see if this lights the tail, instrument lights and the the low wattage lamp in the headlight shell. Otherwise, Fuse 6 (for the above lamps) and Fuse 7 (turn signals) get a common feed from the ignition switch. At some point, probably under the seat, that feed splits to the two fuses. No relay in this circuit. You may need to have a look at the harness as it feeds up into the tail section under the fuse block. Do post back about the park position . . .

That's good news! Relay upgrades are cheap and often effective. BTW: Relay 4 - ECU, Relay 5 - Pump/coils Again, check those stator wires under the alternator cover!

Here's an excerpt from the discussion the Ignition switch: By Kiwi_Roy

Beautiful Sport! The bar ends are already weighted. They extend well up into the clip-on. Drizzle some penetrating oil at their junction with the bar under the grip. After waiting a day, grasp the bar tightly and snap the hex drive smartly, or otherwise , yes, you could use an impact driver (still grasping the grip tightly). Upon reassembly, use some anti-seize paste for next time. There are a few other ways to quell the vibes . . . Jeez, what a cherry sport! Thanks for the pic!

Hmmm, kind of an odd combination, since the turn signals are on Fuse 7, but the brake light is from Relay 2. When you say "dash", do you mean the instrument illumination or the warning lights (oil/battery)? Otherwise, you are right to say the ignition switch is the common denominator. There's a thread here on pulling it apart for a cleaning . . .

I had long thought the swinging needle was from the early version's bevel drives, but it appears the later, with the bent tubes, also wags. I'll try to damp the cable in housing with the engine assembly lube and see what happens . . .

This is too ominous. I'm planning on doing this tomorrow while my wheel is off. And, eek, it is Friday the thirteenth! Good thing I'm not with the Knights Templar. I'm sure my clutch bleeder would be booby-trapped . . . Really, all I need to do tomorrow is put in some new brake pads, but thought it best to pull the wheel, clean up the grease splatter (hoping that my rear drive seal change is holding) and bleed the caliper (which requires flipping it upside down). In the process, I think it good to follow this advice in FAQ: Maintenance Checklist while the wheels are off

$ 206 Canadian pesos, not as bad as i thought. I hope this one lasts a bit longer! What year is your LeMans? White face gauges or the black (different cable set-up)?

Oh, crap! Now you're scaring me a bit Mikie as it's outta warranty! Hope pasotibbs story fits my bike $wise! Like Pasotibbs, I jiggled that kill switch a number of times and I kinda got a sense(errant?) that it had more to do with subsequent restarts than anything else I'd wiggled! (stopped near a bush, 'mose well drain me sump!) I getting a sense that this seems to be a fairly common problem though throughout the V11 years. I was hoping that being one of the "last of the V11's" things would've been a teeny bit sorted than the early examples. Oh, I forgot, it was still made by the same fella's - probably after lunch. If a cycling the kill switch seems to work I'd say relay or kill switch contacts are likely to be the cause. That's not bad thinking, and the run switch is pretty easy to open and clean with a contact cleaner; worth doing! Yet, a couple of us found that repeatedly re-energizing the relays would finally wake them up. Again, cranking depends on current through the run switch. If she cranks, the run switch is passing current from either the side stand switch or the neutral switch/middle relay. Also, if Relay 5 has played up, it's worth checking the yellow wires from the stator under the alternator cover to be sure one isn't coming apart. I've seen two of these that kept showing up as relay failure.

I've run out about six sets of Diablos from Corsa to Strada along with Metzler, Bridgestone and Michelin (which my Sport was allergic to), and Dunlop. I do like the Pirellis best (the Sport was delivered with Dragon Corsas which were gone in 2800 miles!). I'm currently using up the new Angels which feel great. We'll see on the miles since I keep good records and can compare to the various Diablos. I do think they make our local roads from ground up sharks' teeth and the ambient temps are intense lately, leading to what I call the 90-90 wear pattern (90 mph at 90 degrees F). Reaching 4000 miles on a rear tire is for celebration! While the wheels are off, have a go at some good sorting: Maintenance Checklist, while the wheels are off in "FAQ.":luigi:

docc, have you lubricated the speedo cable? You can pull the inner portion out (while watching for little washers that may or may not be there) and put Lubriplate engine assy. lube into the cavity and reinstall the cable. You cannot get too much grease in here. This should help. I wiped the cable down liberally with RedLine ShockProof. I do have some CRC engine assembly lube "with moly-graphite." You think maybe i should completely coat the cable with this? And, will it work on my ZUMO?

So it is that Relay 5 is your most likely culprit, yet there area couple simple things to look and listen for if she cuts out again: When the key is on and the run switch is pushed on, is there a brief whir from the fuel pump? If so, Relay 5 (the rear most relay)is working. Does the starter engage and the motor crank? If so, then the Run Switch is working. Try to engage the starter in neutral with the stand down. If no crank then the neutral switch and the middle relay are suspect. Power to the run switch only goes through the sidestand switch when it is up and the bike is in gear. Are all the lights and horn functional? From your post it sounds like it is cranking, but not firing which brings us back to relay 5. (Again, most likely).

So, the new Veglia is "fixed", meaning it rather (somewhat) shows the speed , nearly. Rolling away from a stop it wags wildly. I do love the look of the white faced clocks. And while the Veglia was down, the Garmin ZUMO presented a perfect dashboard. I could ride on with confidence using the satellite link. Except that the ZUMO locked up and had to be sent in for remediation, perjunctivication, or forpostification, or for whateverthehell they do to electronic devices that no longer function. For the record, both of my Veglia Speedometers outlasted the ZUMO 550.

Did the stumble go away? You must have over 70,000 miles on Kermit now.

Looking forward to seeing your results!

Simplest solution is to adjust the valves to "world spec," freshen the plugs and balance the throttle bodies. Turn your air screws to one full turn out. Longer answer found here: TPS Setup and Throttle Balance Tuning

Your pawl spring may be faulty. But, before going there, try carefully cleaning, greasing , and shimming (if necessary) the foot lever's pivot points. Many also report improved function with the RedLine Shock Proof gear oil.

Wow, RAZ! I don't think I've ever seen a picture of your Sport. That is magnificent!

Now, admittedly, this is all quite over my head. Still, could we use a Pulse Width Modulator to approximate the advantages of the three-phase system?