docc

Roy, Have you pulled the coil wires from the coils to inspect? I had one all green and nasty with the contact corroded in two. It kind of rides in the weather there.

I usually curse anyway, just for good measure.

Er, I'm not Steve, but the connectors are on the left side of the frame near the front. There are no other connectors on the bike like them. Not only do they benefit from cleaning and crimping (or tightening), but I think it helps to weather proof as well (heat shrink).

Check the yellow wires at the bottom of the stator (alternator) under the front cover. The do commonly break and may have shorted. They are hard to see all the way in, so you must lie down on your side and trace them in with a good light. With the regulator that hot, it may be a good bet. Otherwise, Roy will be along presently to get you sorted out.

Hmmm, good point. The rear pads are already undesized and wear out quickly enough.

Yes, you can snick the plastic cup off with prying (maybe a drop of lubricant first). The early TPS is entirely manual. No electronic setting.

Proper pizza delivery requires 460 horsepower: Looking like we already have a police escort may kept that last Trooper from throwing in with us: Good and proper spine frames: Distant cousins on the Cherohala?

What a great bunch of guys to both ride with and sit about on the veranda and tell ever taller tales. Tech session revealed: Yes, you can carry an entire case of ale in the expandable Guzzi/Tekno panniers (why did you think they were"expandable?") -

Why even make it close? The intent of the procedure is to defeat the right screw entirely. Other balancing methods employ both screws, but the posted procedure eliminates it. For that matter, it could be removed.

I've always used the word "flummoxed" in my posts when I do something, er, mechanically compromised. That way I can search the word by author and find all the sideways stuff I've done over the course. Now, you have begun your own precious collection: Search for "nit/ author:Bob"

In 10 years on the form here, I don't recall anyone doing this. If you try the search function, define the search by "relevance" using the drop-down after the initial search. Also, you might check the forums at Wilgguzzi as lots of those folks have had linked brake experience and may have done some conversions. Best of luck!

What Ken said: first place to start is removing, cleaning and lubing all the pivot points on the foot lever. Because it rides in the spray, I've found BelRay waterproof grease to be a lasting lubricant. On reassembly, realize the pivot bolt threads into the frame tab and sets the lash for the movement. Too tight and it will bind the return. The lock nut then insured the bolt will retain its setting. Otherwise, you have the pawl spring issue.

Also, likely to have two distinct rolling gaggles: ALLEGRO and normale. Ride well. And hydrate - looks like the 90s F. The Sport vapor locked after parking today for the first time ever (82,000 miles).

I'm thinking we should head east at 0900 EDT assuming everyone is already fueled up and Walt can have s fed by then. That should get us over the Cherohala and to the store at Deal's Gap in a couple hours to observe the carnival festivities and let anyone who wants to earn their T-shirt on the Tail of the Dragon. Then off to Franklin and lunch at The Sunset. Back to the Cherohala via Wayah Gap and Nantahala Lake. Looking forward to seeing everyone!

I know this is not very precise, and you can get it all perfectly tuned later, but just crank the throttle stop in on the left until you like the way she sounds at idle. There should be no lump-bump (which I like), but a smooth vrrrrrr like an aircraft warming its manifolds. Why the left? It's the easiest to get to.

It is looking like six of us leaving middle Tennessee Friday morning running all backroads over to TellicoPlains. Breakfast at MarcyJo's Mealhouse (4 miles east of I65/exit 46 at the junction of TN99 and US 431) around 0800 and eastward bound by 9-9:30.

I will typically get aroung 15 (35-36 mpg). Worse in the cold weather and near 17 (40 mpg) with easy, steady highway. (Hubert, thanks for conversion factors!)

So, Cash - (good news!) . . . how many miles (km) on that fuel filter?

With just a short 35 mile jaunt in ambient 90F, no drip anywhere. Better already! The acid test: next weekend's South'n Spine Raid. Two years ago, that's when this ugly bugger raised its head for the first time. I said there would be a tech session at the Spine Raid. I just don't want it to be what kind of rag works best for gear oil . . . Short ride tomorrow and then maybe 100 miles plus on Saturday over to Sloan's Vintage Show in Murfreesboro, Tennessee (our nearest Moto Guzzi dealer). Wish me the best. And keep that rag in your pocket . . .

Many thanks to Todd at MPH for getting the seals to me and especially the The Perfesser Hisself, Andy, for talking such care in getting the drive resealed. And taking me to school, as always: The large outer seal started leaking again because the mating surface was gouged in several places by the 'last installer' (me ). Apparently, it is not a good idea to simply pry the old seal out with a flat blade screwdriver. He cleaned the surface up nicely and reseated the seal just a few thousandths "proud" to introduce it to a fresh surface. The smaller inner seal looked to be in good condition, but there was a substantial amount of swarf from where the last seal had been beat or pressed into the case by the 'last installer' (NOT me). Can't be sure that was why it leaked, but it was a notable mess. Andy really impressed me with how he cleaned everything, felt of everything, and caressed everything both apart and back together. Like riding the mountain roads, here's a guy that makes these things look easy. Thanks, Perfesser!

All of the things you are doing are good things, and much good advice here. I especially found my main fuse contacts simply too small to handle the 30 amp load and soldered in a MAXI fuse- no more melting/ burning. Yet, a couple posters had mentioned this already (and I recall your tach is not functional), but could this simply be low idle speed? Even with the tach, Veglia are often 300-500 "optimistic" leaving the lump to idle at 600-700 rpm. Better to err on the high side and idle her a bit high, I'd say. At this point, there would be little wrong with bringing the idle speed up and rechecking voltages.

Those are just stellar pieces! As well as the polished intake tracts! What a really neat V11. I had taken a dimensioned drawing to my local machine shop to turn down the bar ends for fitting the CRGs. Nice work and all, but $85 US!

AYE... you saying a diesel oil is alright in a v11? gezzz man dont be telling any doubting Moto Guzzi Thomas that, they'd have a field day loughing it up (no pun intended) HA, yeh - too many of us keep our oil doctrine in a leather bound handbook on an altar. I got the opinion on the equivalent diesel ratings from a well written piece re: oils for the air cooled Corvair flat tappet engine: Richard Widman's Corvair. Mighty similar engine technology.

Make no mistake, we Yanks have farking down to a science. And here on V11LeMans.com we can quickly spin an oil thread into something unrecognizable. *No matter the brand, synthetic or not, look for SG rating or for the diesel rating CJ-4 or CI-4 plus. This will provide the zinc and phosphorus for the tappets. *Avoid friction modifiers shown as "ENERGY CONSERVING." Your cylinder bores will thank you.

farking Kiwis... what?