docc

Ony you guys could combine an oil thread with a beer thread! I never thought of shaking my oil bottles . . .

Perhaps a length of al dente pasta wrapped around one of the fork legs, should be able to tug the forks one way, and then the other without breaking if properly adjusted ..? Apologies in advance for the flippant comment. I've always gone with the adjust until bind, and then back off a tad method also. Gio Haha - quantifying "a tad" and "al dente" uses the same scale!

Brought all the posts here. Nothing duplicated on the 24/7 forum . . .

After your initial search, drop down the "RESULT SORTING" menu and choose "Relevance" and click "update." It still throws a myriad of results at you, but more likely to find those old threads we so fondly remember . . .

As you own a 2001 you should have none. Funny. Hubert Indeed, this is largely a 2002 problem. Yet, the later '01 and earlier '03 may be afflicted as well. Maybe a poll of failures by year?

Both the "over mount" and "under mount" clip-ons will rotate forward and back fixed by the torque on the pinch bolts. Always a good method there to tighten in stages and go back and forth between the two fasteners. The under mount of the earlier versions (1999-2001) can be lowered, but the over mount cannot be slid down unless the forks are moved up through the triple clamp.

Can do. Interesting looking at the old threads . . . my post wondering if a ground strap to the regulator body would be a good idea. And the post from Gary Cheek (whom I hold in high regard) that the changes I made should "help the regulator." (my paraphrase) The terminal stack is a trouble maker, no doubt. The 30 amp mini fuse is problematic as well. Perhaps my power distribution solution , along with the MAXI fuse is good juju . . .

Link here to the wiring in the headlamp bucket. And here for the power distribution from the battery. Also, the battery and regulator are a year and a half old and the stator is two and a half. I've added all the recommended grounds and regularly serviced connectors. OMRON relays in the relay block as well as the headlamps (x2), and the 30 amp Maxi fuse for the charging circuit.

That is the number from pages E1, E2 in the parts manual: 30 11 52 20 "Raccordo sulle pipe aspirazione (Union on the intake pipe)"

I just rode 25 miles three hours ago. Voltage is 13.02. At idle: 12.60 and everything over 2500 rpm: 14.24. Seems ok to me, but it's always a worrisome subject and we all want to be getting the most out of the charging system. If I added the diode, wouldn't it boost the charge to 14.84? That seems a bit high . . .

But what does it mean: This 2000 Sport has OMRON 0264A22A relays (one for the hi-beam, one for the low) in the headlamp shell wired directly from the battery through a 10 amp circuit breaker, each grounded to the frame and their coils activated by the stock wiring.. The voltage drop from the reference is 140mV on low beam, 160mV hi beam. I see why the electric jacket does not change the reference voltage at all since the reference circuit is the headlamp /brake lamp circuit only. I am certainly unclear why a diode is the answer and not a resistor to increase voltage drop, but I am admittedly clueless on the electronics.

And, perhaps, contributes to the commonly melted 30 amp mini fuse? This was always assumed to simply be the inadequate contact area in the fuse block. Although, I melted a couple mini- fuses in external holders (or charred their contacts off). My Maxi-fuse has stayed well with no melt.

This is likely the most break through development in spine frame wiring since we started bypassing the switches and adding bigger wires. Who knew we were also bypassing the regulator reference? No doubt, if these AGM batteries don't get more than 14v, they get unhappy . . .

And, so, those clever of us who have wired directly the headlamp, horns, GPS, and accessory plug (for heated jacket or such), will not be showing the reference wire this draw? Good to know and unsettling at the same time . . . So what diode for the headlamp correction? And then the GPS, too? And another for the accessory circuit? Really, I thought the regulator would read actual voltage and charge accordingly. NO?

Even after all this time, the more I read the more I marvel that my Sport runs at all (let alone well).

Well, OK, 218. But just that one time. Of course, that is on the Vagueliar speedo so might not have been quite even 200.

It is if you're in Illinois. Overdue for a trip to the Plump and Fluffy South?

Reservations are starting to come in to The Lodge at Tellico. Walt, there, tells me there is another motorcycle group also coming that weekend who have made a couple reservations already (no other details, but not Guzzis). Just a heads up for anyone who might wan to get their room secured. Admittedly, the rooms are a little awkward with a king bed and a kid's bed or pull-out couch. Also, Walt told me the restaurant is no longer open to the public and meals will be offered "family style" for the guests. Not sure how that works exactly, but I remember my big brother eating my biscuits back in the day. "Family style" may mean we'll have to keep an eye on Hagan's consumption. Here's a guy who posts pics of his meals on the internet, after all . . .

That is the most concise and refined thread on the topic. The wires can be probed at the TPS or "backprobed" on the ECU connector. This is much easier on the earlier V11s as the connector is on top of the ECU. Later bikes will require the ECU to be loosed to gain access to the connector for back probing. This method uses millivolts to set the TPS. Using a reading device (AXONE) or computer software (like VDSTS) sets the TPS in "degrees opening." I'm thinking the later years' TPS can be calibrated with the software while earlier versions, like my 2000, the TPS must be physically moved.

Great stuff! I threw the Ohm meter on the cf canisters and am really amazed at the conductivity! Never heard this come up before. Thanks for the posts!

Oh, yeah: Tn 30 from Tellico (via 39) to McMinnville is fabulous! We'll use that both going and coming back to middle Tennessee.

In all honesty and fairness (don't take this as a trend), Mike at Tellico Outfitters has given T-shirts to Spine Raiders the last couple years. I wouldn't hold him to it every year, but he does have a really nice motorcycle accessory store right there in Tellico Plains at the Tennessee side of the Cherohala Parkway. If you have any purchases on the horizon, give Mike's shop a look. He's Guzzi rider, forum member, and all around good guy.

This is one of the significant issues with these brakes. It can lead to unpredictable braking (weak, fading, grabbing, pulsing). It remains good medicine to clean the pistons thoroughly as routine maintenance. In addition to regular fluid change (bleeding), chock the offside pads and observe how the four pistons move with lever pressure (don't squirt the things out of their sockets!). You will likely notice one moving better than others and one, perhaps, moving not at all. Chock the mover and work the others in and out with alternate pumping, cleaning (with brake cleaner), and clamping back in. Make sure there is room in the reservoir for fluid to push the pistons all the way back in the caliper. Repeated cycles of this will usually get the pistons all moving uniformly. And with a great improvement in braking and "feel."

Testing, testing . . .

Let's take it here: South'n Spine Raid Eight June 22-24, TN USA