docc

After reading back through he thread, I thought some clarification was in order: 1) Yes, the Saturday loop really is, after all, clockwise. 227 miles as the Garmin flies. 2) Yes, Hagan always gets his way. Expect a big play for Mex food at some point. 3) The Austrian answer is: "black." 4) Mike, at Tellico Motorcycle Outfitters is hoping to ply us with T-shirts just for showing up. I'm down with this as I was planning on wearing my faded orange TMO shirt all weekend. 5) See you in the mountains! (posted 36 hours out)

Jamie, You've cleaned and crimped the spade connections? They are bad about loosening up and getting corroded. Also, be sure you can hear the tiny "click-click" as you squeeze and release the lever. Remove the lever (don't loose the puck!), clean the channel and puck and reassemble with some light lubricant. Be certain the tiny machine screws that hold the switch are tight and both still have their tiny nuts. The switch can loosen in its mount and become unreliable. Upon reassembly, Brembo lever pins are retained by a stamped steel "nut" on the underside. If it drops off, the pin can pop out and the lever falls off. Simply "zip-tying" the hollow pin is good prevention!

What a fine collection of Guzzis! We shall only be so lucky at Sixth South'n Spine Raid!

Wow, TDF! The Sport looks just stunning! I've only ever seen one other Sport with red wheels and the black sump and bevelbox, the black valve covers with red guards, really set the look off with the red tail cowl! When you get a chance, go to your profile and post a location. It really helps with other members linking you to local support. Quite nice! Good show! docc

( The Austrian answer begs the question, "orange or grey?" Guess we'll find out soon enough! ) I've laid in the loop for Saturday clockwise through the Smokey Mountain National Park and back over the Cherohala Skyway. I'm not able to attach it here in Garmin Mapsource, but I have it on SD card to import to your device if it is so equipped (ie:ZUMO and perhaps others with SD capability). Otherwise, I might could e-mail it. Either e-mail or PM me your e-mail address if any of you would like me to try and send it. Quite a few of us will be arriving in Tellico Plains mid afternoon Friday and looking forward to heading over to Mike's shop (Tellico Motorcycle Outfitters) before settling in on the tarmac for the protracted tech session aided and abetted by neurologic solvents. See ya'll soon! docc

Odd, Roy, it opens for me in FAQ:huh2:. Of course , only the "Relay Base Repair" pdf is on that thread. I'm afraid they're going to get "lost" on the Tech Forum, buried by new discussion. Would you mind making this same post on FAQ so it can be pinned and I will delete the redundant threads?

Raz, What a fantastic event! Fabulous to see you on the road again! Well done and ride well! docc

Indeed, they do that. I remember putting them back together with an appropriate adhesive ("Shoe Goo," as colloquial as it may sound, is a good choice

moved here from 24/7 V11

That's also when my problem showed up. I assumed it had to do with something I had done in the flush process, but not so: it was the broken spring inside the master cylinder. (see the thread above "Bled clutch . . ." just in case you have the same affliction.

C, Under the 14mm chrome center cap is an 8mm hex drive which loosens the "retaining nut." Yet, that's on early V11 Sports. You're working on a LeMans IV?

Pete, I think you've gots yer 'moticons out of order (o'course mebbe they do things differently on those big islands!) (Looking forward to the ride report from the Second Ulster Sheep Jump!)

The Cubans have long had a great admiration for robust machinery. Many have said the Guzzi twin is reminiscent of the American V8, and these have been much desired on the island. Having had American V8s, I'm not entirely sure the connection; the growling, torquey snarl perhaps . . . yet, maybe just the threat of short valve guide life!

A couple other issues to consider when clutch actuation degrades: 1) Bleeding the fluid about once a year is helpful. In fact it's easiest to get to when you are changing the rear tire. 2) There have been a couple reports of broken springs inside the clutch master cylinder which shows up as excessive play at the lever. It may be time for a master cylinder rebuild. See this thread :Bled Clutch . . .

Brendan, No need to "re-flash." In fact, a good tune up works magic on these machines: TPS adjustment And, always good medicine to service your relays: Relay Base Repair Keep us posted how it goes. I once heard it said that these motorcycles enjoy a bit of "owner involvement.":rolleyes:

Tried the OMRONs? They may go six sets . . .

Oh, my, no. I follow procedures for a living!

You're about 100 Euro lucky the thing didn't just spit apart! Time for that coat of epoxy to make it permanent!

There is a very old thread on this. I'll have to look for it when the sun goes down. But, from (my failing) memory: The eccentric adjusts the throw evenly between up and down. It is easiest to center with the cover off since you can visually inspect the throw. It can, however, be tweaked on the bike. The adjuster is a three piece affair. The acorn nut is a cover and can be removed to access the adjuster itself. There is a slotted shaft and a lock nut. Note (as in write down or draw)the position of the slot ("zero") and release the lock nut while holding the shaft with a screw driver. It's right fiddly to get to and I found using a 3/8 drive "crow's foot" 19mm open end a good help. Rotate the screw slot 1/8 turn (probably counterclockwise to improve downshift) and lock up, replace on the cap and go for a test ride. A little better? Go another 1/8. A little worse? Go back to zero and 1/8 the other direction. DON'T FORGET YOUR ZERO! That said, we fiddled with these a lot back in the days when the recall was impending and never seemed to do much good. I doubt you took the adjuster apart when you did your spring. It could be more likely that your shift lever external mechanism needs a good cleaning, greasing and maybe even a little shim to reduce play. While you're at it, check to be sure the clutch lever is not showing excessive play at the hand grip and the clutch fluid is freshly changed.

Also worth checking is the circular metal plate that is staked into the plastic housing. These tend to loosen then, finally, pop off spitting out the contents as Stormsedge has noted. Best to press them in and epoxy as with JB Weld. There is an identical angle drive on the speedometer end that you should also have a look at. From that end it is easier to extract the cable and be certain it has not become a two-piece unit.

Good news, David! And thanks for the update. Just for cross reference, there is a thread on "How To" detailing this as well: Relay Base Repair Are you still having to "wiggle the bars" to sort your "under tank wire?"

Agreed!

The Sixth South'n Spine Raid is June 4-6 in Tellico Plains, Tn. Just a couple weeks away! You know Kermit wants to come!

Here's a list of things to inspect, clean or lubricate while the wheels are off for a tire change: (The wheels don't have to be off to do all of these maintenance points, and not all need to be done every time) >Check the wheel bearings for smoothness and play. >Clean and check the brake pads for wear; polish and grease the pin(s) very lightly with a silicone based grease.. >Clean the brake pistons and restore their motion in and out of the calipers evenly. This involves blocking every piston but one and moving it in an out of the caliper all the while cleaning it with brake cleaner. > This good advice from gstallons on brake drag: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20133&p=225343 >Bleed brakes, especially the rear brake while you can turn the bleeder to the top. > Clean the fork seals with a "SealMate", or equivalent, including the dust seals. Performing this simple task routinely may extend the life of your fork seals impressively! >Remove the top and bottom rubber caps from the rear brake master cylinder and inspect, clean, and lubricate. Use only silicone based grease around brake parts (under the master cylinder, inside the rubber cap). Make sure there is good electrical connection to the switch at the top and avoid the silicone based lubes (dielectric) on electrics - simple petroleum jelly (Vaseline®, or better: Caig DeOxit Gold®) will keep the moisture out. Grease does not conduct electricity - it's just to keep the moisture out. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18158&p=192643 >Clean the rear brake carrier pin and block; lube lightly and be certain the pin threads are clean, lubed* and well torqued. (later V11s have a retaining clip on the inboard side). *Consider a thread locking compound. Allowing this locator pin to fall out can be catastrophic! On the early V11 (1999-2002), some have decided to torque the pin in place and only use the sliding block to remove the rear wheel, perhaps reducing the chance that the pin would not be reinstalled correctly and safely. >Bleed the clutch. >Clean the gearbox vent and the rear drive vent. >Locate, inspect, groom and otherwise secure the wiring and connectors from the Side Stand Switch. This is how your V11 gets electrical power to the Run Switch while you are riding along. Without it, you will not be riding along. Might as well have a close look at your side stand mechanism: pivot bolt, backing nut, springs, and foot "lever"(wire loop). Make certain the sidestand bracket fasteners are secure to the timing chest and sump spacer. The main, large fastener here is torqued to 70-75 Nm! Loose fasteners here could contribute to a broken sump spacer. (no need to have the wheels off for this one!) >Inspect the rear exhaust crossover hanger and both of the canister/passenger peg subframe supports. >Clean the wheels and rotor carriers ("float buttons") and lube the front carrier buttons (a drop of Breakfree CLP (or equivalent) works well, but don't let it sling out on the rotor surface. Bumping the rotors around with a mallet helps keep them “floating.” Even out the spacing of the rotor on the carrier by tapping evenly around the perimeter of the rotor with a soft mallet. >Check the torque reaction rod (chassis rod) rubber bushings for deterioration and play. With the rear drive removed and driveshaft separated, service the pivot bolts . Clean the pivot bolts and apply something reliable for corrosion resistance, especially the front pivot that has been reported to break. >Check the rear drive bearings; clean and grease the outboard needle cage and its sleeve with a good waterproof grease insuring that you rotate it to a new position. Here is an excellent thread, by Bjorn, with lots of great pictures of this bearing, the swingarm, and the bevel box internals. [edit 26 April 2018: It has come to light that keeping moisture out of the right side needle bearing protects the "nose" of the crown wheel and the inner drive seal. Once pitted, the crown wheel is difficult to restore.) >Clean and grease the drive splines for the hub. Use something super-sticky, like Klüber Staburags or a dry-film moly coat. Avoid over-greasing (it will just sling off). >Lube the driveshaft and its U-joints. Don't put too much grease in the splined connection or it will trap air and not go back together. Before you take the two halves apart, make sure there are clear alignment marks. Consider verifying the Driveshaft Phasing. >Carefully inspect the driveshaft yokes for signs of looseness, fatigue or cracking. Verify the pinch bolts are torqued and the the yoke collars do not slide on the output or input shafts. >Inspect the shock eye connection to the swingarm. The early V11 white spring/blue collar Sachs-Böge are prone to crack. Grease the pivot bolt and junction of the steel bushing and alloy shock eye! >Service the cush drive. The button head screws will not likely come out willingly, so expect a fight (heat and penetrating oil/solvent) and replace with new fasteners. >Clean and lubricate all the fasteners. I use a small wire brush and anti-seize paste. >Inspect, clean and seal the main ground(earth) cable to the back of the gearbox. You have to remove the seat latch release to get to it. If you find the cable is not directly to the gearbox, move it there, but be careful if you remove the bolt entirely as there has been a report by SeanP61that it might not just go right back in. > Mounting the front of the battery carrier basket beneath the subframe adds considerable clearance for the battery under the seat pan. The front tabs of the basket must be slightly contoured to fit between the frame tubes. > Remove, clean, lubricate, adjust, and shim (if necessary) the foot shift lever and mechanism. They get sloppy, loose, crudded-up, and misaligned. So much better with no play, sticking, or striking the frame side plate on the down stroke. > Clean and lubricate the sidestand mechanism; inspect and secure the wiring to the switch; tighten the vulnerable lower bolt (circled in red) and torque the important upper mounting bolt (70-75 Nm!) [edit 22 March 2021]