docc

So, the trouble seems to be clearance for filter height. The SuperTech (USA built Champion from WalMart) looks to be some 3.120 inches (7.88 cm) and the WIX 51348 looked much taller. I had O'Reilly's show the filter for Guzzi applications. All models were the same WIX 51215. (Hecho en Mexico) It is also taller than the ST by about 7mm or 9/32" (3.404 inches). The WIX specs state this filter (51215) is for Buell/HD/Dixie Chopper. The only difference I see in the specs is the Burst Pressure/PSI which is 325 for the 51215 and lower for the "Saab" filter (51348): 275 psi. EDIT: also, the WIX 51215 is more heavy duty construction than the SuperTech/Champion weighing 252 grams to the ST's 189 grams. What about the height? What is the height on the UFI?

Definitely, some simple things for you to square away. No need to "completely strip and overhaul!" Sure all the little things that may need attention can take some time to work through, but she'll get better every step of the way!

Thanks, guys. I suppose I'll carry in my spare SuperTech and do a comparison. I thought about cutting them open for a look, but not likely. Nice to know what these bits fit in the case of walking in the door of the parts store with no numbers. I use a fuel filter for Isuzu Trooper (like , all years) and, apparently a Saab oil filter (like, all years!) Off to Oh, Really's for this months oil/filter special on my new oil-of-choice: Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w-50 SG.

The rear brake light switch crapped out on my 04 lemans a couple of days ago.It's a pressure switch.I know cars from to 70's used them a lot.I'm not about to spend nearly $50.00 for a simple switch. Napa has them for around $7.00,just different terminals. Electrical connections are pretty easy to change. The switch you sourced screws in properly? What is its application?

So, I suppose an update is rather overdue. I always appreciate when posters come back with "the rest of the story." The big seal went in fine and contained about 90% of the drip. I tried to source a replacement shaft just to be certain about it, but never could get one around. Even with a $600 USD promise. Yet, the u-joints don't grind or play, so I decided to keep them intact (and the alignment marks aligned), pull the rear drive, and have the inner seal replaced. After carefully searching for a proper "factor," I delivered the piece up. Now, I had read about the procedure to use heat and drop the drive onto a block of wood to dislodge the internals. I figured I would pass on this and hire it done properly. After two weeks, the fellow informed me that it would take a special bearing puller, and the "hot drop block" method had cracked the case. Cosmetic, says he, but not good. The drive would be going to Harper's in Kansas, USA, and he would try to address the crack. So I says, "The crack is at like 10:00, 9:00, what?" "9:00," he says (Long post, now, I know, but it's been going on a year and a half) As it turns out, the back flange (or "bell") of the rear drive snapped almost completely off. The "crack" started at about 11:00 through the mounting web of the torque arm and broke downward along the back of the drive to, say, 7:00 about an inch from the edge. The piece almost completely broke off! Now, this fellow has been working on Guzzis for half a lifetime. His observation is that the earlier drives didn't have as big of a flange or as deep of a "bell" or "cone" if you will. The block he's dropped so many earlier drives on snapped this one. So, new seal in (from Harper's), crack welded, I sanded, grinded, filled (JBWeld), sanded, shaped, primed, sanded, painted, sanded, clear coated . . . garage basement plastic surgery. 500 miles now and no leak! And the cosmetics are not terribly bad (this is not my show bike). I don't suppose I'll be carelessly overfilling the rear drive with Redline Heavy and I wonder if the "heat and drop" dis-assembly method may be, well, not so good for these later/ pre-CARC rear drives.

OK, well, there's this: Part Number: 51348 UPC Number: 765809513488 Principal Application: Various Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep (82-11), Various GM, Saturn (85-07), Lexus (90-10), Saab (67-09), Suzuki (86-02), Toyota (88-11), Ford (03-11), Mazda, Mercury (05-11), Yugo (86-89), VW (09-11) Various Lawn&Garden, Farm, HD Equipment All Applications Style: Spin-On Lube Filter Service: Lube Type: Full Flow Media: Paper Height: 3.404 Outer Diameter Top: 2.921 Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed Thread Size: 3/4-16 By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 8-11 Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes Beta Ratio: 2/20=6/20 Burst Pressure-PSI: 275 Max Flow Rate: 7-9 GPM Nominal Micron Rating: 21 Gasket Diameters Number O.D. I.D. Thk. Attached 2.734 2.430 0.226 __________________________________________________________________________________________________________ FWIW, I'm thinking it a good indication that Saab specified the filter for so long ('67 -'09) as well as Volkswagen more recently. That both Saturn and Jeep/Chrysler as well as Suzuki and Toyota have used it so long (20-30 years) should make it ever available.

Other than the UFI, the Champion made filter available at WankMark (Super Tech ST3614) has been referenced here before. I had my local Oh,Really parts store cross reference to a WIX. I am under the (perhaps misled) impression that WIX makes a good reliable filter. (They say : WIX 51348) The question is, what does it otherwise fit? They listed SAB/CHR/TOY '67-'09. Whatever that means.

Yeah, the coil spring inside the clutch master cylinder was in several parts (three or four pieces - thread here somewhere - search by "relevance"). The lever picked up excessive play that was only noticed during a fluid bleeding procedure. Worked much better after the rebuild!

So far, my sorry rear drive is staying tight. The Lower Middle Tennessee contingent is having breakfast at MarcyJo's 4 miles east of I65/ exit 46 Friday morning October 7, kicking up sidestands by about 9-9:30 and rolling a little over 200 miles of backroads to the Barber Motorsports Park. A few of us are holing up at the Hampton in Trussville a few miles away. Only because the hotel is between a CycleGear and a Hooters .

Good advice there on the diesel oils (CI-4/ CJ-4) and to avoid the friction modifiers. Even Pete said so - no self respecting yak would spin off friction modifiers. I'm disappointed to see my latest Lucas 20w-50 is not rated SG/SF but SM/SL/SJ. I suspect the zinc and phosphorus levels have diminished as well. Without a lab test of Rotella 15w-40 and the new Lucas product, we will not really be able to know.

While it is true these leaks may come from inside the covers, first be certain the timing sensor (phase sensor, "R.P.M. and T.D.C. sensor "7") at the the top left of the front case is not seeping. It is most common and easiest to fix. The leaking of the sensor may appear along the left timing chest (looking like a chest crack or leak), or at the bottom (appearing as a leak from inside the chest), or even on the floor next to the front fork ( looking like a blown fork seal). While an O-ring is needed to fix the sensor leak, mine leaked through the wire connection and required epoxy measures to secure. May not be your trouble, but better to be sure it is not on the outside before venturing inside.

With my 2000 V11 Sport, I wonder if the tank would have expanded like this and begun to bubble like this without the ethanol. Perhaps not. The motor seems to run a little lean in spite of all efforts. Ethanol? I suppose I could make the fantastic effort of sourcing non-alcohol fuel and see what happens over time. IMHO, alcohol has better uses . . .

This is the 7th vintage festival at Barber's Motorsports Park near Birmingham, Alabama, USA. While the festival itself, apparently, has no "featured marque" like many concours, the classic bike show sponsored by the magazine, Motorcycle Classics is "spotlighting" the 90th anniversary of Moto Guzzi at the Motorcycle Classics Barber Vintage Motorcycle Show "presented by (their) friends at Moto Guzzi." I'm not sure what that all means, but I'm determined to ride my V11 Sport to Barber's again this year (it's a great event!) and endeavor to park it in the "show." While I might get some award for no gear oil on my rear wheel, I'm more hoping to meet some of you and enjoy the solidarity.

Hi, Thaing! Nice to hear you're still working that V11! The change had to be made to the neutral switch, its wiring , or its relay. The switch is on the left side of the gear box (is there a wire still connected to it?) The relay is the middle one in the row (Is it still there, under the seat?) Ride well, docc

After all these years of, well, "gearbox issues," the one that I'm not sure you've looked at (ok, I have not re-read the entire thread) is the clutch master cylinder. More than one have broken the internal spring needing a rebuild (not difficult). Mine showed up after a clutch bleed with what seemed like too much play at the lever. Worth a check . . . Ride well, docc

High ZDDP (phosphorous) levels are detrimental to catalytic converters ("street use"), which our V11s do not have. I've gone to Lucas SG 20W-50. Don't let anyone tell you the oil doesn't matter . . .

I remember 2002 saying to MGNA and my dealer, "My gearbox doesn't shift right." 81 emails later, and with my dealer's support (Ben Curlin of Jackson, TN), the gearbox was replaced. In that time, I was directed to this forum , the early units were recalled, and , as I said in those days: if there is an expert on the six speed Guzzi gearbox - it are us. Almost ten years on, it turns out, it is us; if "us" is belfastguzzi. Thanks, David, for the persistent support and dedication that can be found no where else!

The clutch switch must engage for the starter solenoid to be energized. While the switch itself could fail, it is more common to loose contact at the two simple "bullet" connectors beside the frame under the tank on the left just behind the headset. They are certainly worth cleaning, crimping, and sealing. The switch is activated by the clutch lever through a small hole and a little ball bearing, or perhaps a small plastic puck. Since that area is rather exposed to the weather, it is a good place to clean up, dry off, and maybe apply a little light lube. Good maintenance!

Here's the linky thing

I gues if the guides are bad enough to let the valve wobble, the seating would be compromised and compression affected. Not so much from "leaking" guides, but the subsequent wear on the seats.

I still can't figure how the guides, that are separated from the combustion chamber by the seats, could affect compression or leak down. I'm thinking it's more from sticky rings and gummy seats from too many months/years sitting and it will all be solved by more frequent heat cycling and a couple oil changes. Yet, Montana may be more conducive to machine-work than miles! Beware of Hagan's garage warming methods:

+1 on that. And that the original foot controls have approximately the structural rigidity of an over baked pretzel.

30 Nm is the torque specification for an 8mm fastener. I would think that shockingly low for an axle. My 2000 Sport Workshop manual calls for 120 Nm, which I've used for these years with no troubles. 30Nm? Scary . . .

Glad to hear you're back on the road with a pretty simple tune-up! The brass sensor and anti-seize shot my sport in the foot.

As to the oil seep, look at this thread. Sealing the surface and replacing the O-ring on the phase sensor did not completely seal my leak as the sensor was leaking internally through the wire connection. The JB Weld has stopped this entirely.