docc

Is this the rear main seal of the engine or the front gearbox seal?

It is, quite simply, a sign: that you should bring your RedFrame to the South'n Spine Raid. It's been too long since you've been soaked to the bone having to endure an unendurable pace complicated by Norges and EVs. No, really, you should come on over. . . (again) (Glad to see you on the forums!) docc

Discussion moved here form tech Topics... ooh, but I do love Lotuses (Loti?)!

Roy, What changed that was "major?" (I keep downloading/printing and and adding to my Workshop Manual.)

Most of the grounds (earths) are back through the harness to the (nefarious) stack of terminals on the battery. The regulator and the instrument illumination both, apparently, ground to their mounting. the whole system does benefit from enhancing the ground paths, from anchoring the bulb holders in the instruments to adding a ground strap between the engine and frame, or building a junction block to get the terminal stack off the battery. Because the engine is "stressed" and becomes a conduit for earthing, it's probably good medicine to remove/clean, and apply copper anti-seize to the frame mounting bolts.

Bob, Could you post a picture of your "modified" grease gun fitting? It would be helpful to know where and how much to grind, and the right fitting to start with to make this a "2 minute job." TIA, docc

Pretty scary, you dredged up the Twitchy Vixen thread. I hope if my Twitchy RedFrame bites me again, it's not in the @$$. After re-reading that thread, it's still not conclusive if the actual caster angle changed. When I posted the question in Geometry 101 ,no real conclusion was reached. Really, how could trail be increaseed from 92mm to 104mm with no change in caster angle (or even a half degree)? I share the inquiry of the Dutch enquirer: did the steering angle really change?

2000-2001 RedFrame specifications: 25 degree caster, 92mm trail, wheelbase:1,471mm (57.9 in) Oddly, I could not find the caster and trail specs in the workshop manual or the owner's manual, but in the sales brochure. Brochures I have for 2002 and 2004 do not list the caster/trail, only the wheelbase in inches. (59in) The later wheelbase is, apparently, 1490mm (58.7in) and I had read "somewhere" back in '03 that the caster angle was also 25 degrees, and the trail is 104mm. (Not sure, now, where I got that). Is there no printed caster specification from Moto Guzzi for the later "braced frame?" (You know, the one they made for the Old Gits since they're so wobbly already!)

I'd love to see this bike in person. I think it's one of the most stunning of the V11s! No wonder you were stopping traffic on the BRP!

Front brake: multiplied by eight pistons. And the capacity of the reservoir must accommodate the wear of the pads causing the fluid level to drop.

I think it is more of a surface area issue. The blades of the ATC fuse are already small, but the clips only grasp about 25% of the blade. What prompted me to change them was the opinion of one the board members (I'd have to go back and look to give proper credit) was the heat cycling will have surely destroyed the tensile strength of the metal. To reiterate, though, I tried an external ATC fuse holder whoch also melted the fuse or burned off the blade. So far, the MAXI fuse has been 100%.

This is amazing, Jaap! This bike started as your 2002 LeMans, no?

Well, the yellow stator wire was broken inside the alternator cover, but had not "de-soldered." It was, however, hard to see and find. No doubt the very small clips (female connectors) in the fuse block are hard pressed to handle the 25+ amps of charging. They only make about 25% contact with the ATC fuse blades (when they're in good shape!). Replacing the charging (regulator) fuse (#3) with a MAXI fuse will be part of the solution. Ah, if only, The Answer were just one thing!

Whew! I forgot what a long thread that was! I found this for an answer: Raz's summation. : "I'd just say try the pinned How-to and if it don't work out good, try Micha's method instead. Or the other way round if you wish. Probably one of them (or both) will produce a nice running bike." Also, Ryland noted that low battery voltage could contribute to frustrating variations in results .( Now, I'm paraphrasing . . .)

The two most most mystifying issues for me have been the melting 30 amp regulator fuse and the yellow stator wire that detached itself under the alternator cover. I am preparing to post an FAQ reference on these electrical resources. Yet, I'm waiting for Roy to post "the rest of the story " . . .

Oh, this is classic! Like we think we've got all this Guzzi figured out. I love the Cali Vintage. I tried to convince my wife we should trade our Volvo on one. I'm pretty sure she'll let me move back into the house before long. "V11" is the motor, no? So, all things "motor" are V11. I wonder that the electrical system is also of the "V11" era (five relays, FI, and an AGM battery?). Yet the frame and gearbox are "old." Lovely, desirable and interesting, but "older' than the spine frames with their six speeds. Suspensions may differ but brakes are very similar. (but are the Cali's linked?) Looks like a guy with a Cali/V will have to be all over the forums. And the rest of us may have some learning to do . . .

2005 "Scura?" Mysterious! I thought no V11 were made after 2004 . . .

I'm not sure what you mean by TPS at 245mV. The two standards are fully closed plate at 150 mV (+/- 10 mV) and idle at 5.10-5.35 (some like it higher). Where are you setting the 245mV?

Have you simply bled the clutch fluid? They really benefit from fresh fluid about once a year. Ergonomically, you can adjust the lever so it is closer to the grip and rotate the assembly such that your wrist is not tipped up or down, but is straight along the back of the forearm to the back of the hand. Moving your sitting position closer to the tank takes pressure off the wrists and hands. These are the simplest things I think you could do to make an immediate difference.

And, so, the eBay bob-job swamper sells for $5,232.41. My well maintained Sport must be worth $11,900 again.

With all the road closures in the mountains, I think we'll all come to the niece's wedding. Oh, yeah, the famlee's gonna love this! And the next time you say "I'm going riding with 'some guys,'" they'll be more *enthusiastic.* (If only you just don't bring the whole lot around to the reception again.) Let us know if we can help you out . . .

For sure. The way I came up with 32mm drop on Bob's Sport was to measure the width of the clip-on which is ordinarily below the clamp and add the 3mm thickness of the cap. I should subtracted the thickness instead since his is flush with the top of his clip-ons. That still makes for 29mm and a whopping big drop! If the fork springs are original and the rider is over, say, 185 pounds, the turn in must be very abrupt with some tendency for wobble. I had tried mine at 10mm (+ the stock 3mm), but found it more stable and reliable on turn in at 8mm (including the cap thickness). Bob's used to the big drop, but most of the rest of us might find it like Mr. Toad's Wild Ride!

Looks like your reference voltage from relay2 is correct (You mean you shut the headlight off at the switch, yes?) Just to confirm: Voltage from the alternator seems correct, and the bike starts and runs. Headlight, horn, brake light are good. Tachometer does not function. But do the charge/oil and hi-beam warning lights come on with the ignition switch?

Slavo, I agree with Roy that there must be a short in the harness somewhere. What is the voltage on the Red/black wire? Will she charge if you apply battery voltage to that wire into the regulator (applying battery voltage into the harness at the red/black may only induce the short!)

No crap to give! Good news, no mouse nests! Check TPS Set-Up and Throttle Balance Tuning for a (relatively) concise TPS/throttle body balance procedure. Waiting to hear how this next step turns out!