docc

Of course, I secretly want this bike. It reminds me of this one:

Still sounds like some stiffer fork springs would be good medicine. More damping won't change the sag or the dive. Check that front sag (it's easy with the zip tie). If it's more than 38-40mm, new springs are the answer.

Increasing the air bleed screws, the CO trim, and the valve adjustment may all increase RPM at idle, but without opening the throttle plate angle (which is read by the Throttle Position Sensor). This is why the valves should be adjusted (to "world spec") and the CO trim should be zeroed (by Axone or VDSTS) when the baseline TPS is set at fully closed right throttle body before establishing the idle TPS setting and opening the air screws back up. Then ther air screws should be closed to establish initial Throttle Body balance off idle (like 2000-3000 rpm) before setting the air screws out. Some say: use the air screws to balance TB at idle, book says 1/2 turn both sides. My Sport likes a full turn each side. On top of all that (and there's more), your white face tach is a liar . . . (shocking!!)

That is my cranking voltage also (4 year old Hawker). When my stator wire broke, the V11 ran for maybe 20 minutes, but then became very unhappy. Slavomir, I'll have to go all the way back through your thread and try to understand better your trouble. Are all other Relay 2 functions normal? (headlight,horn, warn lights, brake light and tachometer?)

It is as you say. The meter shows 156k Ohms with the leads disconnected, even unplugged from the meter. Must be internal to the meter itself. Thanks again for all the help.

Or a mouse nest in the airbox?

How could a shaft's alignment marks have gotten off a half tooth? Twisted somehow?

Dan, your '02 'long frame' LeMans has the clip-ons mounted above the clamp, yes? Is that 14mm the stock positition just allowing room to attach the clip-ons? (The RedFrames came with clip-ons under the clamp and only 3mm extended above the clamp - just the fork cap in other words.)

Sorry, Roy, I misunderstood what you meant by "dash lights." Definitely, the Warning Lights (except for the neutral light) come through Relay 2. I checked my running voltage at 2000 rpm: 13.5vDC. Charging stops when I pull Relay 2 (12.4vDC), so whatever that wire does, it must have voltage from Relay 2 for the regulator to charge. With no horns, headlamps or tach, a problem at Relay 2 would still explain the low charge. All of Raz's and Roy's tests are right on the money, and worth doing. For the simplicity of replacing a relay or repairing its connections, I would certainly try that first, get the lamps on and tach working and recheck the charging voltages.

The instrument illumination is on another circuit (Fuse 6) with no relay. I've been told the regulator wire to Relay 2 is a "voltage reference." I suppose if there is no reference voltage, the regulator may not trigger charging. Sounds like it would be worth getting the relay fixed first and see if charging is affected.

The RedFrame trail is less, and the wheel base is shorter. But also, the later frames have more bracing both forward and with-in the subframe for the swingarm. The later rear wheel width was increased to 5.5" and the front forks/clip-ons were changed as well as mounting the headlamp/instruments on frame instead of on forks. All this in an effort to reduce weave and vibration. Oh, and notably, the early RedFrames were delivered with very soft, pointy Pirelli Diablo Corsa tires. I don't know if later bikes had more substantial springs, but the early RedFrames were pretty soft.

That would be two tricks, no?

Assuming the Sporty is "well sorted," one the Beemers could give up a nefarious rear drive . . . You're keeping a shift spring on a chain around your neck for proper V11 VooDoo?

I've moved this discussion to a new thread since it's important and didn't need to clutter the TPS thread it came from. Good stuff! Carry on!

We could probably help you get it sorted. Those failures point to Relay 2 (second from the front). I'll bet your brake light also will not come on, nor the hi-beam /charging/oil warning lights. Take the seat off and give relay2 the wiggle test.

I presume your man cut new spacers for the forks (he added some millimeters?) and cranked your rear preload up a bit as well. What do your sag numbers look like now? Mmmm, that GB, it's a little sweety. Soon-to-be-vintage, too!

Picking the back up 10mm will make a noticeable difference in ride. Weighting the front is a good thing and is likely to give you quicker turn in and less high speed weave. Resetting your front and rear sag should be next on your list assuming you've got the correct fork springs for your weight. You're gonna like this!

Removing Fuse 4, Fuse 6, and the Sidestand relay, the test measures 1.3 Ohms Ignition on and 155,000 Ohms off. I think my Guzzichondria is cured. . . . for now . . .

Wow. Forty dollars? I'd sure be interested in what the pro could do for you for forty bucks. Quite a bargain. Have a great ride and get back to us on your impressions. Suspension tuning is one of the three things that bring these bikes to the Ethereal Plane. Number Two is electrical and the third is a deep, dark secret.

Here I thought the airbox had to come off as well . . None the less, Increasing your preloads will certainly help the sag. Your target numbers are around 25-30 mm (25-30% of travel) and , some say, a bit more sag to the front. An extra 5mm makes the street more friendly. The final solution will be correct springs for your riding weight; likely something a bit stiffer than your stock fitment. I found that increasing fork preload on the soft front springs for my 180# weight limited rebound travel enough to scuff my leathers. . .

I'm supposing we'll kick sidestands up at 0900 EST from The Lodge at Tellico in Tellico Plains, Tennessee. Walt, the Inn Keeper, has a restaurant there and we'll head out from that coordinate after a proper breakfast. The Saturday route remains dependent on the status of rock slides and road closures as we draw closer . . . Can't wait to see you! docc

I remeasured with the Sidestand Relay removed and Fuse 4 removed: 15 Ohms switch off/ 1.2 Ohms switch on. Amazing the difference with no current in the system. I suppose the procedure should be noted.

Roy, Couple questions: I cleaned my ignition switch (45 minutes) after getting a test reading off 600 Ohms. After, the resistance is 589 Ohms. Should I expect 5 Ohms or a variation of no more than five Ohms switching off and on over a series of trials? If the Test Point Layout is drawn as if we are looking down at the relay bases with the relay removed, my Test Point "k" goes to ground. Am I looking at the diagram wrongly? Thanks for the feedback!

Whew! It's not "TPS", but a Red Frame dropped 32mm . . . Mine's down 8mm. I tried 13mm and it was ungood. (3mm is the stock standard and stands the fork cap just above the triple tree). Maybe we should have a new thread: "How Low Can You Go?" (I'm sure Ponti is the winner!)

What a grand result! You must be very pleased. How long did you have her in the works?