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Thanks, RainPrincess! For those too impaired to cut and paste, here's a direct click/link: Moto Guzzi Heritage/ 90 years

Guzzimeister's V11 has 80k miles on it . Anyone know of 100k miles on a V11? or more? Mines on 25k. Be interested to know how they are at big mileages. UJ's replaced? Gearboxes still working well? KB I thought Guzzimeister's 80,000 were kilometers? My 2000 sport is sitting on 76,202 miles (122,635 Austrian kilometers). While the shaft has not failed, it has become worrisome, so I'll be replacing it.

My sweet little Sport Lady loves her Angels. But the Bad Girl liked her Diablos as well. 9,000 miles? I'm lucky to get 4,000 on a rear - Angel or Diablo.

That is just so insanely beautiful!

On my 2000 Sport, the filter is clamped above the frame under the gas tank. For years, I've used a replacement for the Isuzu Trooper (any year). For a while, the WIX were welded units made in Isreal, but lately even the Made in USA filters are crimped. No problem with them, but I really liked those Isreali welded jobs! It's a little shorter than the $50+ Weber and might require little longer fuel line for the input. WIX 33310

Hey, I can write you a note. It might could work. Once. Perhaps. But it's worth a shot and you do look as of you're developing the epizootics. The only known cure is wind blast and vibration. Mike, glad you're gonna turn a wheel with us this year! I'm wearing my Tellico Motorcycles Outfitters shirt as I type this. And it's the one not speckled with gear oil. Thanks for your support and the great tank bag you put me into last year! Currently, I have a new shaft ordered from Teo Lamers (through my local Moto Guzzi dealer in Seattle, Washington) and will have all the seals in my rear drive renewed. I just can't go another year with well meaning Guzzisti pouring ale on my rear wheel to wash off the gear oil. There are much better uses for ale than that!

This is a Nero Corsa of 2004 vintage? How many miles? What's the oil type and change history? Were the valves out of spec more one side (the low side) than the other? Any history of engine work? All of these questions on the theory that it is better to have nurse than Doctor . . .

Since the side plates support the swingarm, this will be removed to remove the plates ("porkchops"). The manual recommends simply putting it back the way it was by first measuring how far the right and left mounting pins stand off the side plates. You can do this with a Vernier or dial caliper after the lock nut is removed, but before the pins are rotated. Some would say that using a careful alignment method upon reassembly (glass, tubes, chalk line, laser, tequila - whichever) will give you a better result than the factory may have taken time to do. After my laser results, I'm in this camp. Yet, if I had the sense to take the measurements beforehand, I would have simply put it back the same. With the swingarm off, it's a good time to service the shaft; check, clean, grease or even replace the swingarm bearings, and bleed the clutch. Great time to bleed the rear caliper as well while you can turn the nipple to the top. Upon reassembly, use caution starting the threading on the shaft's pinch bolts. They are easy to get askew. Torque these in steps back and forth. Consider blue LocTite. The foot shift lever could use a good clean, lube, and perhaps a little shim to get the most out of it. You might want to mark its location on the splines both fore and aft to get it back to the same spot. It's easy to get it off a bit where it may strike the porkchop on the down stroke and chip your new paint! You getting her all spruced up for the South'n Spine Raid?

Ha, I had one of those for a couple years after I crashed the Sport. It was white and "Popcorn" would have been a good name for it! The Sport is more like a grand lasagna with a side of pasta, a full bodied chianti, and for dessert: tiramisu. By the time the plates are away and the bottle is empty, you know you've had a rich and varied experience, but can be certain you've gone in over your head. Sometimes, it can make you feel like popcorn would have been a good idea!

Ok, ok, you can tease us twice. Still, somebody's gotta go show those guys what a really foxy motorcycle is.

It does probably reduce its Z rating to H, so try to keep it under 200 kph.

I thought I would post feedback on the cold weather results, but I just haven't ridden much this winter. When I have, the Sport has run well and never dipped back into the 32-33 mpg typical in cold weather past. Still, there have only been a couple issues (other than the basic "tuning") which have helped my Sport's manners this much (totally corroded coil wire on the right coil and heat destruction of the main fuse). Well, there was that bad TPS . . . and the broken connection inside the stator . . .

While this thread has devolved a bit between cush drives, torque arms, and temp sensors, here is the thread where I attempted to post the temp sensor results without the, um, drama: Engine Temperature Sensor

+1 with DanM that getting your springs set up for your weight is first and foremost. Apparently, the Ohlins V11 shock is no longer available. After all, the V11 is: soon-to-be-vintage . . . and . . . certain-to-escalate-in-value. Look for mine (with its Ohlins shock!) at a Bonham's auction in your (or your grand children's) lifetime!

The only custom bushings I've seen were Delrin and fitted to the torque arm of Andy York's well ridden 2002 LeMans. I was always hoping he'd make them largely available, but I do not believe he's currently in the bike business. Other than riding that LeMans all over the eastern US seaboard and all points west. He does jump in here from time to time, so maybe The Perfesser could shed some light on the Delrin bushing business! I do recall he simply had them made to fit the torque arm by a local machine shop. It has always fascinated me that the original rubber bushings appear to be captured by the fasteners which would impart some damping from the twisting of the rubber (and, perhaps, account for so many of them eating themselves up). I've long thought it would free the suspension movement to release the bushing to rotate freely. Of course, these are in the Torque Arm, not the wedges of the cush drive.

Gettting a crank when the bars are locked back and forth suggests the two "bullet connectors" for the clutch switch that lie behind the head stock along the left side of the frame. Clean, crimp, grease, and seal! These will only stop the starter from turning. The running of the pump is elsewhere - probably relays and relay bases.

All the urethane bushings I've bought were "stiffer" than the stock rubber components, both for suspension bushings and motor mounts. I've got that whole Swiss cheese thing on my list of more things to do . . .

It appears like it may be a front cover issue. I removed the tank, retorqued the pick up and the oil lines, restarted, and within minutes had oil pouring from the top cover again. On the ride home, it was enough to coat the shoulder of the rear tire ! Ah well, thanks again for the responses. It shouldn't be that big of a deal to fix... After chasing an elusive oil leak that I thought was timing chest, or even a crack, I found the O-ring in the timing sensor had played up. Easy fix and no more wetness.

moved to tech topics for better discussion. *just a reminder*: the How To forum is for explanations, procedures, and descriptions. This is the better place for questions and discussion . . .

How many miles on the Guzzi when the U/J failed? Front or rear? Was it just noisy or worse? Thanks for feedback!

Oh no! I forgot about that one! I just walked over and gave a little tug with my thumbnail . . . and it popped right off! I see it brought some of the silver paint with it. Saved, again, by V11LeMans.com and its members.

Oh no! I forgot about that one!

moved here for more viewing enjoyment!

Skeeve's point is well taken: there is no going back from my approach. I cleaned all the adhesive off and roughed the backs of the aluminum badges with 80 grit paper, then scarred the side plates with the Dremel and affixed with high strength epoxy. Any repaint will have me masking the badges off. I still can't believe the thing fell off in my hand at the fuel-up.

Forget that. This is just to make the light bulb work (illumination). Has no effect whatsoever on the tach. Common fault on the white faced tachs seems to be break in one of the coil feed lines, which tend to break from vibration. This is fixable. I do see the diagram shows separate ground paths for the instrument and the illumination. It does look like the instrument itself grounds back through the harness. Certainly, the mounting studs only appear to ground the illumination. The diagram also shows two separate AMP connectors between the ECU and the tach. Before I replaced the tach, I would track those down for a cleaning and dielectric grease. It does appear the tach gets its signal from the ECU. From there, I would think the signal comes from the phase sensor. G2G, how does that fault in the coil feed lines figure in? Where would we look for that?