docc

About 89% of these problems have been solved with The Full Tune Up, including valve adjustment, TPS setting , and throttle body balance. !0% have been relay upgrades or battery replacement, and 1% would be whatever you'll come back and tell us if that doesn't work.

My literature says, "850 mL" for the gearbox (I like Redline Lightweight , but so many like the "heavy" as well). That's a bit less than a "quart" (like 100 mL). The rear "bevel drive" takes 370 mL in all. You could put it all up with Redline heavy (with its proprietary pink moly VooDoo) or 350 mL gear oil and 20 mL Moly. Both boxes are easy to both over fill and under fill.

These bikes just get better and better the more you love them!

Wow, that was some vintage lager! It reminded me of St. Pauli Girl or perhaps Beck's.

18 lb-ft is sure right for an 8mm fastener (25NM), but 36 ft-lb for an axle? Hmmm, that's just 50 NM . . . The solid front in my shop manual (2000 Sport) calls for 90-100 NM (70 ft-lb or so). I can't imagine an '02 axle would need less. Sure there's that lock nut and pinch bolts and all, but . . . Did you find the location for your thimble-like spacer? Mine's an the left side of the bike. That's the left as you sit on it - the bike's left side. Again, mine's not Scura. Also, it is good to retorque the previous fastener after the subsequent in a pinch collar working up in steps to the max torque. Otherwise the first fastener will end up 'loose' and the collar not as effective.

Agreed, I'll always found the stuff just picked off. And it serves to find all the screws and adjustments to fiddle with.

I'm just proud to be "part of it.":mg: I think I'll have a Czechoslovakian lager for St. Patrick's Day to celebrate.

Chris, How far are you from "Bungendore?" (and OMG, is really a place??)

Beer But try to keep the Little Nipples a secret . . .

Here's one of the more coherent posts on bearing load from Pete Roper: Rear Wheel Woes 22 July 2005 And a thread on the spacer length and bearing failure by Baldini: Hot Rear End 27 July 2003

No question, you've done it the right way. I don't know that anyone has ever checked the difference torquing from the off side. Interesting theory on the water running downhill to the left bearing. But, can water get to the bearings inside the wheel? I don't know. Most every one has alleged that the 'sealed' bearing don't come with much grease in them from the factory. It is true, G2G, about the locking nut and probably wouldn't walk off. I would still be nervous about only using 1/4 the torque. Definitely not something I want on my mind at 150 kph. And I forget now what the opinions were about the short spacers. Mine checked out ok as well, but apparently some were a little short allowing a lateral stress on the bearing.

Aye, RL Heavy: all the "moly"- all the love . . . (clean your vent, watch your fill level)

So, this is some curious inter-metric conversion: a guy (uh, dat's me:nerd:) makes a 1.00 mm error; he (dat's me:o) owes Mick a pint. And raz, too. Really, he (dat's me So, this is rather convoluted/forum conversion math: 1.00 mm x 1 (24/7) forum = 5 pints. Since we ('mericans) can only get good ale in 12 ounce bottles, I'm pretty sure I drank all five pints today just lamenting over the Little Nipple Affair. None-the-less, I am so behind on my bar tab form the South'n Spine Raid that I will buy you a beer at the mere mention of *Little Nipples* any where in the world. From now on. Oh, for goodness sake, be discreet . . .

You and Mick have been very kind about the "Little Nipple Affair.":rolleyes: What a difference a silly millimeter can make! I looked in my Owner's Manual, as well, which calls for 12 Kgm for the rear axle. This conversion makes that 86.8 lb-ft (118 NM). My **stars**, I could be haunted by the Littlle Nipple Affair. I think I might owe everyone on the forum a pint. Let me know when you're in the neighborhood . . . BYON (Bring Your Own Nipples)

I would be rather afraid that my rear axle might "walk off" at 30NM. Also, gstallons, some have noted a 'short' spacer in the rear axle leading to perceived early bearing failures. In the end size may (or may not ) matter. You would think it a simple thing: "What torque, the axles?"

I don't think I've ever actually put my torque wrench on the "housing side." But now we know just what kind of nut cases have red-frame silver Sports!

You have my PM. I'm emailing your pint. If I don't make good on this, Luhbo will never forgive me.

According to the Workshop Manual, 30 NM would be the torque for an 8mm fastener (about 22 lb-ft). Some have tried to tighten the rear like the front (90-100), but there have been some opinions that the extra torque (120NM) helps reduce bearing failure. In this case, I'd have to say, "yes, I'm sure about this." But, I for one, appreciate the way the forum works in checks and balances as we discuss and consider postings.

Front: 90-100 NM (66.4-73.8 Lb-Ft) Rear: 120 NM "housing side" (88.5 Lb-Ft)

That would be my mistake. PM me, I'll stand up for it.

Yes, yes. I measured the wrong adapter tap. It is, in fact, 6mm x 1.00. Good catch and thank you!

That is very well put. I may have made it sound like I tune "by ear" or some such. Not so. In the beginning, the bike was "tuned" by the selling dealer. Their approach was, "it starts, it runs, don't mess with it." I then began to use the compendium of procedures in Guzziology using my shop manual for reference; Followed then by the JeffinOhio system; finally appended by the (pinned) forum discussion. After about ten tune-ups, I've found the parameters get closer and closer and she runs better and better. Over the years, I've sen the "tune-up" solve some horrendous impressions of terminal mechanical and electrical failure. It is notable, though, that the answer to "setting the idle" becomes: perform a full tune up including valve adjustment. Yet, after you've got this accomplished, you can turn the little screw.

Hi, Hubert! Thank you for your conversation! I find my shop manual lacking in several usable components. Chiefly, I cannot measure "degrees of opening" and need the conversion tables for mV to set the TPS. There are other confusions in the manual procedure which is very brief. Reviewing the "Forum Procedure", I can't say I follow this procedure entirely either. I'm thinking the "tuning" is more like playing a musical instrument than just following a given "procedure." I think, Hubert, you and I could make some beautiful *music* together!

The US models had brass nipples for the carbon fuel evaporative canisters. These were in the tool tray under the seat on early Sports and plumbed with 20 feet (yes, twenty feet) of fuel line. The whole contraption weighs five pounds. Many owners removed the apparatus and either hooked a vacuum line between the two intake ports or simply plugged the ports with a threaded fastener (I'm assuming non-US bikes just had the the cross head screws). The trouble I found after removing and replacing the bolts to thread in vacuum taps for balancing every 4000-6000 miles is that the aluminum threads gave up in the intake. I've gone back to permanent brass nipples with rubber caps in place.