docc

Antonio, I'm pretty sure you mean "0.20mm" for both intake and exhaust. That is (roughly) 0.008 inch. 0.15mm/0.20mm is equivalent to 0.006/0.008 inch which is the most common response so far.

Who can make these polls on the forum now? This would be a good one (for motorheads) (in winter) . . .

I found this to be true as well. There is not an advantage to using both idle stops to have any synchronization. It is, in fact, better to back the right screw fully out and use only the left and the tension in the linkage rod to make balance at idle. (I've done it both ways). There remains the debate about 1) what is "idle" (since the tachometer might be 200-300 rpm high, or even 500 over; and 2) should idle be balanced with the air bypass? ( I think not, but, others disagree). I suppose, if one wanted to just crank the idle speed up, and not mess around with "tuning", it would be easiest done with the left screw as it is the easiest to get to.

I smell a poll coming . . . "how do set your V11 valve lash? a- 0.002/0.004 b- 0.004/0.006 c- 0.006/0.008 d- 0.008/0.010 (I vote"c")

The threading is 5mm diameter x 1.00 mm pitch. It would be the same for the thread repair kit. Don't ask . .

Well, Hubert, that depends. Some of these bikes have had their right idle stop defeated, in which case turning it will do nothing at all. Some procedures have used both the left and the right to set the throttle body balance at idle, in which case truning the right screw would affect the balance at idle due to play in the linkage rod. I would agree with you that once the TPS baseline is set at the correct idle rpm (not the tach indicated rpm ), and the throttle body balance is set, the idle can be changed to suit the rider or the conditions. One must still be aware of how the idle stops have been used in the balance procedure as this is not always the same and it is very common that the right side screw is completely backed out.

For sure, even with any changes you make, use the pinned TPS Procedure. All the values remain the same. I've said this before, but it's not uncommon that the early tachs read "optimistically" and a 1200 rpm reading could really be 900 (not high enough). Coming from a big block V-8 background, I've always loved the cam-lope idle, but the Guzzi (for several reasons) likes it higher. Just winding one or both of the idle screws is not a good idea. Not disastrous, mind you, just not good.

Actually, the Neutral Switch provides power to the Run Switch through the middle relay. If the bike will bump off then it is getting power to run. To complicate matters, the alternate power path to run is through the Sidestand Switch which does NOT go through a relay. So, with the bike in neutral and the sidestand up, you should hear the whir of the fuel pump. If then, thumbing the starter switch does nothing, the clutch switch is suspect. Try turning the bars back and forth attempting to rethumb the starter. Try spraying a contact cleaner between the switch and lever (or take the lever out and clean up the area without loosing the little puck or ball between the switch and lever). Finally, you might have to remove the tank and refit the bullet connectors for the clutch switch as they are notorious. If the bike is in neutral, sidestand up and you get nothing (no whir/nothing), put the stabnd down and try again. If she then starts, the trouble is either the Neutral Switch (try remove/clean/replace or switch to Redline gearlube or replace the switch) or it's the middle relay (make sure you have upgraded relays and the contacts are good; relay swapping or relay wiggling could help but is temporary). Just for kicks, note that the middle relay is called the "sidestand relay" but it is actaully activated by the neutral switch. Let us know what you find . . .

Some riders carry maps in their tankbag, but the Sport keeps that flow chart in its "map" pocket (and Carl Allison's wiring diagram)! No one is ever so lost as when their electrons cannot find their way!

On a brighter note:

I should probably buy those FBF valves, but how would I know if I'll need the oversize? I'm trying to hold out for the 100,000 mile tear down (30,000 to go).

The most likely culprit is the clutch switch or its flinky 'bullet' connectors under the left forward side of the tank. SH drives home a good point that there are quite a few connectors that could use a good clean and crimp! No doubt, you should be certain your relays have been upgraded to either OMRON or GEI. If she does it again, try twisting the bars full left and full right, attempting to engage the starter at various points. Success would surely implicate the connections for the clutch switch. Flow chart for function:

Hey! I resemble that remark Those classic looking "silencers" look really stunning on the Sport! I never heard anyone say that their Ti ECU was a major improvement. Those cans were not available until, when, 2003? And, they were probably made by Mistral, yet I thought they were oval (?) Whatever the change, taking off the stock LaFranconis will probably drop about 10 pounds (or is that one stone?)

I recall the Titanium cans were sold with a replacement ECU, no? Nice looking pieces! Looking forward to the picture installed!

GreenNinja's Scura appears to have a "late" configuration (frame mounted instruments and fairing). Is it for sure that he has the single plate clutch and aluminum flywheel? When I look through my inspection hole, I can see the flywheel is definitely ferrous (rusty). BTW, the "inspection hole" is on the right behind a rubber plug just behind the motor. What do you see in there GN?

Sounds like you really made out! When's the big party with the prize money?

Tom, Thanks for the update. What kind of valves?

All true, what Pasotibbs has said. If you can keep the pistons clean and the fluid fresh, the tiny rear pads may last a bit longer, but 10,000 is probably the high side. Even if you don't use the rear brake! And the length of the string: too short.

It felt great to get out on the Sport today as well! While I rode, I thought how far the bike had come with set-up. I never found the damping settings really affected things much. But, taking the time and effort to set the "sag" and get the right springs really makes all the difference.

Hi, Richard! Thanks for the pics of the show. Looks like fun. When you get a chance, update your member profile with your location. It would be good to know where you're posting from.

Hey, I'm glad you took time to look it over. It's not exactly an "easy read." Real Ground Hog Day stuff . . . While I've got my oil choices down to "two", I'm not at all comfortable with them and will probably change the V11 to something else one more time. Maybe you could let me borrow your yak . . .

Neat, Bob! Thanks for posting the changes. As RH, this is the first I recall of anyone fitting a 150. I sure hope you'll keep us posted on your impressions. Which tire make/type did you fit? And 150/60 or maybe 150/70?

It says a lot about winter in British Columbia that a sensible sort as yourself would read through that complex document. Good on ya, docc

I posted this link on a thread in 24/7 V11, but thought we might should entertain it here. This is the most thorough single technical article I've read on oil, ratings, additives and the relationship to flat tappet cams in air cooled motors. I first read the ninth revision (about ten times) and continue to try to get it all into my thick cortex. Honestly, my goal has been to narrow down my oil selections to two products for my three passenger vehicles, two motorcycles, and variety of air cooled small engines. In the end, the compromises are inevitable and I'm still not using the best air filter . . . Selection of the Right Motor Oil for the Corvair and other Engines By Richard Widman

There was no rotational "give" in the washer stack? Hmmm, I thought that is what it is supposed to do . . . but, I've only ever just studied the diagrams while wondering what could be so screwed up in my early gearbox (before the recall). I see your point on "chatter" as I believe that occurs with the clutch fully engaged. Seems like any part of the drive line that allows for some lash could accentuate the rattle. And, I could see that a heavier flywheel would damp the rattling effects to a degree. SO, yeah, it's "normal" kind of like my former girlfriend's polar disorder. Hey it was "normal" for her.