docc

You don't also need a head guard and a plug boot? (Just curious, with the valve cover damaged). Check Buell for turn signals; quite similar for 1/10 price . . .

RHIP, On starting my 2000 Sport, I gradually roll the throttle up as she cranks. After about 3-5 revolutions she'll catch. Looser valve specs, a good AGM battery, and careful TPS/throttle body balance are also good medicine. Realize your Veglia tach may read 300-500 RPM high, so expect to set your idle specs appropriately (as in: tach reading 1500 at idle) [YMMV] On shifting: be certain the clutch hydraulics have been bled with fresh fluid. Also, I found my master cylinder spring had broken internally, causing a terrific amount of play in the lever (Master Cylinder Rebuild).

Too big to pin in "How To" or "Technical Topics" on these forums?

DL, having had four Hondas, and this "other" bike, let me encourage you to groom and clean all the connectors you run across on your Guzzi. Be certain you have a fresh AGM battery with tight connections (all of the grounding in this harness goes back to the battery). True, the instrument lights do not go through a relay; only the ignition switch and fuse 6 on a circuit with the tail light. (it's not acting up as well?). The instrument bulbs in the white face Veglias have a reputation for loosing their ground through their sockets. Search for the fix in Tech Topics (it's not that hard to take care of). Still, the relays are a good idea. In short: fresh battery, new relays, clean connectors, RedLine fluids, tune-up from the TPS thread pinned on the Tech Topics forum - great garage project for a Kansas winter! Then, the more you run it the happier your electrons will be! Compared to the Hondas, I expect you will "get to know" this *other* bike better!

Once again, some horrible Guzzi mechano-disaster averted by a simple tune-up. Hats off to all ye who can set a TPS and balance the throttle bodies. More off to those who adjust valves, set the CO trim, and otherwise tighten down the loose bits coming from together. If you want any more to come off than that, you'll need an online subscription and easy monthly payments . . .

Agreed, Emry. It reminds me of changing the head temp sensor holder to brass, but the ECU is not mapped for that and so it is, perhaps, not a "fix' but a "complication".

Har, you Aussie pun-masters . . .

Ooh, hey, what a major Ducati guy I've shown myself to be. That and I've never seen a (picture of a) Supermono with headlights, turn signals and the funky Caterpillar yellow paint panels.

Just to be sure we're on the same page . . . it's the design the 916 was derived from:

+1 on that!

Early Sports often show signs of their seats riding in contact with the battery (ungood). Look for fixes in the archives involving relieving the seat pan with a Dremel and dropping the battery basket under the subframe. An Odyssey shouldn't leak and no attempt to goop it up is likely to help. Try to get your seat pan up off of it so that (as they might say here colloquially), it "ain't squoze." Gas from the intake? Sounds incendiary; also ungood. Maybe time for a good tune-up/throttle body balance with TPS setting?

Thanks MZNYC! All the rest of the photos must have been shot while the ladies were at lunch. (Not that any of them look like they ever eat). The hyper-finning surely looks a bit overdone in the pictures, but, I agree, this more about trying on some new clothes and seeing who wants to go out dancing.

I like the Cafe design (being such an Old Git ) , but it will have to be 125 pounds lighter than my Sport to be the Real Deal. MG claims 400 lb, dry, so maybe close! And where are the photos of EICMA with the models? You mean Italians would put designs on the stage without leather dresses and Pradas?

Hey! Who you callin' aged and out of adjustment?

Looks like my 2000 Sport is configured a bit differently with the nylon knob on the outside.

Yeah. And then you could have an Italian bike and an Italian wife . . . Who was it said an Italian woman (bike) will stab you for no reason at all?

Maybe a little BreakFree CLP or some-such to get the little bugger spinning. A tiny 8mm hex nut secures the knob nicely but keep it secure in the locking process just like you would a valve adjuster.

Ah! Now, reshaping springs in a vice might just get you a bodge point! But only if it works . . .

My RedFrame had a unique spring failure in that the original gearbox was replaced at 27,213 miles (replaced 12/03) with a box probably made later than the original 2000. The selector spring failed on the newer box at 27,463. The newer box still has the eccentric adjuster. I wasn't aware those were deleted in later production.

There is more than one procedure that includes the RHS set screw. I've done it both ways over these 69,000 miles and find the "defeat" method much simpler and just as reliable. I do use a jam nut on the white knob and, yes, you must be diligent to keep it from moving the knob as it's tightened. FWIW, my white knob rotates on threads, making the rod shorter or longer while the right side of the rod stays soundly anchored with its lock nut. I should have read Ratch's post more closely, but I'm understanding his white knob stays "affixed" and his rod length must be adjusted from the right(?). Good news there is you surely wouldn't need a jam nut on the left!

ANd the shift lever and all its mechanism (external) is all cleaned, lubricated and adjusted?

My yellow Anti-tamper paint is long gone. And, still, I can't imagine the value of using any kind of permanent adhesive (JB Weld or Red Loctite) on the throttle rod. It's adjustable, after all. Best advice, so far is the pinned TPS procedure. It's not the only way, but worth a good fettle, eh?

I believe I just watched a 2001 Sport go on eBay for $3850 US. I'd like to think that's the "bottom." I'm waiting for the day when some kid says,"Wow, Pops, is that one of those rare RedFrame Devil Guzzis from the turn of the century?" "Sure, Sonny. Could you help drag me boot across the seat so I can ride off?"