docc

Woops, meant to add this:

Altering the holder for the Engine Temperature Sensor has been the topic of much trial, error, and debate. After almost eight years and over 55,000 miles, I decided to swap to the brass sensor holder (GU 30163301) and packed the housing with copper paste. Not that I needed to change it, but it was all the rage at the time and my Guzzichondria got the best me. I wasn't sure it ran any better, in fact I thought it got a bit worse, but went on to chase down a series of other, mostly electrical, issues. I rode the Sport two years, around 14,000 miles, before switching back to the original plastic/composite/Bakelite holder with no packing paste. Right away, I felt she ran a bit better. Not a lot, but a bit. So, taking the path less traveled, with the help of TFMKasRH (The Former Member Known as RatchetHack), I removed my thermister from its crimped housing using a Dremel with cut-off wheel (I figured I could JB Weld it back if needed since new sensors are 105 USD), fabricated a Delrin holder using a 22mm length of copper stud and 5mm air gap with stainless steel set screws. I have only ridden it five or six times with a total of maybe 250 miles. But, here are my observations so far: 1) Low angle throttle transitions are much smoother. Rolling into a corner, I've become accustomed to some unsettling sputtering and burble which caused a little hesitation as the throttle was rolled on for the exit. This transition is notably smoother making for much smoother and reliable cornering transitions. 2) Idle and low throttle angles, especially at low (under 3000-3500) rpm are more stable. The motor has never liked to plod along under 3000 rpm (I know it's a bad idea for other reasons) always bucking and sputtering especially right at an indicated 2800 (my tach is 300 rpm high BTW). This sputter is entirely gone. 3) There is much improved high temperature sensitivity at traffic lights and parking lot maneuvers. It has been quite hot here and the first test ride was some spirited riding into town then sitting in traffic and navigating a parking lot at 96 degrees Fahrenheit (35˚C). There was nary a hiccup or sputter or stumble. With nearly 72,000 miles and ten years riding this bike, this is unprecedented. 4) My fuel economy is unchanged. TFMKasRH noted a 10% improvement which I thought would be great. Alas, so far, not so for me. Summertime I get 35.5 - 37.5 mpgUS (sure 40-41 at steady throttle with no cogging and hair shirt corner exits, but who wants to ride like that?); wintertime (under, say 60ºF) 32.5-34.5 mpgUS with the lower figures closer to my 40˚F/ 4,4˚C riding limit. I am really enjoying the smoother, more stable character. On a zero to ten scale (zero= not running, ten= running phenomenally), my Sport is usually an 8-9; 10 on a cool crisp morning at 5000+ rpm, and 6-7 in hot traffic. (Well, there was that once or twice it was a zero!) Right now, she's giving me a solid 9-10 even with the heat. With this much seat time for comparison, I'm looking forward to getting some time and miles for a more complete impression. Hey, maybe I'll end up with those other 3 or 4 mpg! EDIT: August 21, 2014 - with almost 20,000 miles on this "modification", I can say it has performed flawlessly. I was concerned the thermistor would just burn up, but no. The wiring connector did come undone once, and the holder loosened one time. My fuel economy never improved, but the harsh running in hot conditions never returned.

I thought the valving is simply holes calibrated to allow oil passage. How could they wear?

Separate oils. Most would say your gearbox will shift more nicely with Redline. While you've got it apart, clean your external shift mechanism thoroughly and maybe even shim it for any play at the pivot shaft. Take the opportunity to bleed the clutch fluid. Your LeMans is a 2002? How many miles?

Drain the drive oil while hot, if possible. After removing the brake caliper (support it so it does not hang on the hose) and the wheel, leave the axle bolt partway in to support the rear drive. Once the torque are bolt is out (might require drifting), the shaft can simply be pulled apart at its slip joint after the axle bolt is pulled out. There is a small spacer between the rear drive and the wheel. Be certain the alignment marks are clear, otherwise make new ones. It is a good time to also clean and inspect the shaft and U-joints with new grease. (I found one of my Zerks had gone missing). Here is a recent thread on my effort: Rear Drive Seal /replacement And a few tips on some things that could use a little loving while you have the wheel off: FAQ Maintenance Checklist

That's a beautiful sight! I can't believe you are taking your basketball goal with you on top of the kayaks. What a dad! My Workshop Manual says the regulator should maintain battery voltage between 14-14.6 volts. (2000 V11 Sport)

To give the proper credit where the credit is properly due, it is the article Moto Guzzi V11 Sport in Motorcyclist, October 2000, where the author, John Burns, concludes by saying, "Progress is sometimes a while in coming at Moto Guzzi, and sometimes Guzzi progress has a slightly regressive quality to it - but overall this is a fine piece of work in need of a little owner involvement or maybe just tolerance." If Burns had known, at the time, he would have said, "Expect to join V11LeMans.com; post prolifically, it's part of the owner involvement." A "fine piece of work" indeed!

I'm thinking my ground (earth) lead from the battery goes to the gearbox, but not the frame. I've never gotten over 14.0 vDC, either new or with new regulator and new stator; and with all the connectors rubbed up and a frame strap from the motor. I've always made do with 13.6-13.8. You lucky chaps with 14 v must be able to power up some toasty heated jackets and such!

Workshop manual for the 2000 Sport says 3,5 -4,5% and a variation of 0,5%

And now with mo' betta spellin' (thanks to MOTOwfo, my personal spell checker!):

I was going to make a sticker that said exactly that, but I ran out of seat!

Home made! I can make one for you, but then you could be living in your garage like me. Says my wife, "Oh, that's great for surly guys and thirsty dogs." On top of this, I had to make a temporary speedometer while waiting for my replacement from Piaggio:

Mouse nest in the air filter? The 1100 Sport-i is not a really old Guzzi and the FI is very similar to the V11. If you don't get much response here, let's move the thread to Tech Topics.

I should never have read any of this as there is now a puddle of fork oil under my left fork. These forums can be bad JuJu. Or maybe it's the 71,500 miles . . .

The only M6-1.0 45 angle available to me locally is much too large for the space. I tried to "see" the one in the front, but *ha.* Even with lighting and a dental mirror on the end of a long hemostat, I could only focus on the little bugger with one eye; and even then through a less than optimal segment of my corrective lens. Even after ten years, the damn U-joints remain elusive. In fact, I think I doubled my vocabulary today . . .

Thanks for the tips! The seal changed pretty easily. I still haven't run it in to see if it holds redLine. During the cleanup I found the rear U-joint had spit off its Zerk fitting. I couldn't find one angled so fitted a straight then tried to grease it with a needle. Between that and the front, the whole thing is a fiddly greasy mess. I do think I managed to get some grease in the joints this time.

Ok, then, good to go! (sort of ) The seal's out and in. Thanks for the pointers. I decided to pull the drive and do the job on the bench. Easier, I think, than lying on the floor. While out, I cleaned up the U-joints and figured I'd go after them with the grease gun again. Indeed, the grease fittings can go missing: Now to try and find a replacement. I suppose it is angled, what, 45 degrees? And this is pipe thread or something otherwise special?

One way to check the TPS is to disconnect it and check the resistance across the contacts. As the throttle as opened very gradually, there should be no "jumps" in the progression of resistance. When my TPS played up, I could not find it checking the change in mV, but the resistance reading showed the "jump" very distinctly. That said, you may not have a TPS issue at all. intermittent spikes in the charging circuit will also do this. Check the charging voltage while opening and closing the throttle while running. Again, there should be no "jumps" or interruptions. Unfortunately, this is not a very sensitive test. Perform the "wiggle test" while observing the charging voltage "wiggle" the yellow alternator wird and the harness to the regulator. Look at your 30 amp charging fuse for melting or burnt contacts. Also, inspect the yellow wires under the alternator cover where they are (or should be) soldered to the stator. You mentioned your "FI warning light." What's the status on that?

Hey, Grumpy, Did you try contacting G&B directly to see if they had any info on the piece? (I thought sure someone here would know exactly what it was. Paul??)

The big seal on my rear drive has been dripping. I have a new seal, but need to be sure how to remove the old one. Can it be simply pried out and the new one tapped in?

Not likely either coincidence or misprint. The trend in the auto industry has been toward lighter oils to increase overall assessment of the manufacturer's average fuel economy across their product range. I wonder if Guzzi has succumbed to this as well as I doubt the tolerances of a 2005 V11 motor differ from those of the prior years'. Indeed, the ZDDP content is important, hence the specification for SG oils. A substitute would be diesel ratings CJ-4 or CI-4. Friction modifiers in those big bores are a bad idea.

Pretty simple to do a "voltage drop test." Simply test the voltage across the battery with a digital VOM, then across one of the horn's contacts. Even with the bike not running, I would think the voltage should be with in 1.0 vDC. Are you running fused relays with a frame ground, or still routing all current through the switch? This is the reference thread for Serious Horns

For the bullet clutch switch connectors, consider copper anti-seize paste; all the water dispersion with the advantage of conductivity! Then, the 'heat shrink tubing" or the equivalent.

That looks like an ideal job for JB Weld. Once applied and cured, it can be drilled, tapped, shaped and painted. Did it get bumped somehow?