docc

I hear circus music . . .

Just want to say, for the record, that changing the TPS setting based upon GuzziDiag, at idle, is a shot in the dark (unpredictable outcomes). Whatever the TPS reads, at idle (whether in voltage or "Degrees of Opening), is fine as long as the V11 starts and idles happily. Nut Brown Ale time ! Cheers, Tom!

Progress! Does that address the presenting issue of the trip odometer not working when you got the bike, or is that internal to the mechanism? (Common issue)

The TPS is not set with GuzziDiag, only with a quality voltmeter with the right throttle plate fully and completely closed. The ECU does not output a value at this level, so GuzziDiag cannot see it. This indexes the actual/physical throttle position to the ECU fuel/ignition mapping. The 157mV value is critical. "More is not better !" Once the first five steps of the Decent Tune-up have been performed (plugs/valve adj; TPS baseline; CO Fuel Trim; Air Bypass Screws; Throttle Body synch), set the idle rpm (TPS degrees open/TPS voltage) wherever you, your V11, and your traffic/temperature conditions like best. That "535mV" target is just not significant. FWIW, my last (faulty) TPS struggled to allow mySport to idle above 1000 rpm. New TPS, careful baseline setting, and idling happily at 1400 rpm. Sure, a lot of people think that is too high. But not if you ask mySport.

35/40 is what I use as well. AFAIK, yes, you can unplug the PC and plug the connector back into the ECU. Having recently performed a full Decent Tune-up (and TPS replacement), my fuel economy went up about 3 mpg.

Sounds about right the way I ride. Just humming down the highway at steady rpm, I would expect a little higher, but not much. Lucky Phil has shared the astute observation that the ECU runs an enrichening map every restart regardless of engine/ambient temperature. Multiple restarts will degrade fuel economy. A couple things you could try: First would be to defeat the Power Commander. It is not unlikely it was set up to add fuel. Pete Roper has reminded us repeatedly what a bad idea this is. Easy to defeat the PC, see how it rides and check mpg. Always easy to recommend the entire Decent Tune-up. Make absolute certain the TPS is accurately indexed. You have used Guzzidiag to check/set the CO Fuel Trim? Where do you keep tire pressures?

I put my isolation blocks back together with a toluene based contact adhesive (commonly available as "Goop" or "Shoe Goo" here in The States). Replacement isolation blocks can probably be had from McMaster-Carr.

Getting closer! Odd, the individual wire seals are available, but still looking for the connector seals . . . https://store-x2go4.mybigcommerce.com/content/Catalogs/TE AMP SuperSeal 1.5 Catalog.pdf

Piston?

Bring it to the Nineteenth South'n Spine Raid !

Pretty crazy the AMP SuperSeal connectors cannot be resealed. My new method is the slide the seal off for the Caig DeOxit business, then dry the surfaces off and reinstall the seal. Just need new seals to replace the ones I have swelled and torn . . .

Hi, @Art ! You're in the right place to enjoy your Sport! Exhaust is stainless steel. Those are factory headers, but looks like the crossover is aftermarket (maybe Mistral?). Those are not the canisters that came on the 2000 Sport, but pretty sure they are stock (LaFranchoni) cans from a later V11. If so, the carbon fiber is "wrap." Here is a thread from early-on with some discussion:

Seems I was using anatomical terms instead of mechanical.

Tullahoma, Tennessee, near the downtown Veteran's Memorial Park I visited today.

Yes, use the voltmeter. Only the fully closed throttle plate voltage is important (157mV). The idle can then be set wherever you, and your V11, like best. The idle voltage is not critical, but the fully closed throttle plate voltage indexes the throttle opening to the ECU mapping. It is very sensitive.

I suppose I would call that "axial" play rather than lateral (side-to-side). That much side-to-side (lateral) play I would call trouble. I doubt what you are showing is a problem, but defer to those who know this gearbox from the inside . . .

The cadmium plated bolts are the correct Guzzi part GU01357731 from Harpermoto. @Curtis Harper still has a few on hand. Always best to call Curtis (and mention V11LeMans.com). I could not find the correct shank length (thread length) bolt at McMaster-Carr, but sourced the powder coated, 10.9 hardness, nuts and washers there. Those part numbers and links are in this post:

Spinetrepidation - akin to "Guzzichondria", the concern over having one's SpineFrame fit, roadworthy, and present for a proper SpineRaid .

Yet, to the original post, "What if Guzzi did . . ." I recall an AnimaGuzzista interview with Ing. Carcano. I am paraphrasing deeply, but when told how amazed and enamored we, as a community, are with his V-twin big-block over all of these decades, he said something like, "May be time to move on? Perhaps a three cylinder diesel ." Now, that is thinking outside the box!

Agreed! That wasn't mine! Let me get pic up of "Candy" . . . After working the brakes and suspension, "superbike" bars and Corbin Gunfighter seat, she was just out of ground clearance. And still weighed 650 pounds. Yet, not at all what people think of as a "GoldWing." Here we are, November 1999. Nine months later, my V11 Sport arrived.

Man, you were all over this SpineRaid thing . . .

Well, at 650 pounds, the first year 1975 "muscle bike" (no fairing, no luggage, yet ) was as light as a GoldWing ever was . . .

Everyone wants to say the V11 is heavy. Depends, I guess. My first liter bike was a first-year GoldWing. I pared it down to a sport-tour trim. Not to the degree shown below, but that big valve, big carb, hot cam, first year motor was a rippin' delight! At 650 pounds it makes the V11 Sport a comparative lightweight . . .