docc

Looks pretty typical; certainly not too rich. More importantly, does the other side look identical?

My original Bitubo was pretty dangly in the joints. My replacement Shindy is much firmer on its joints, but the joints on the Bitubo didn't have any play or damage. Note that the lock nut which anchors the center mounting joint can back off allowing the joint itself to be loosely attached to the fork clamp. Worth checking. As to whether the bike really needs one . . . my RedFrame Sport certainly feels less jittery accelerating out of a rough corner with the damper. Apparently, most riders run their dampers in the most loose position. Ha . . . "most loose" . . . reminds me of this girl I knew in high school . . .

Wurth products have a very good reputation. The thicker and stickier and more water resistant products do best on the wheel drive splines as it limits how much will sling off. While the wheel is off, have a look at this simple Maintenance Checklist in the FAQ.

It is the same on the V11. Vuzzi, since your crossover seems to be low, it will be good to clean all the connections and be sure the pipes, both fore and aft, are pressed fully in. This might require removing the head tubes to insert them into the crossover, rather than trying to push the crossover up onto them.

I don't think mine went together with that much strain. One centimeter doesn't seem so bad, but I'd be afraid 2 cm might strain the connection at the head. Is there still that much misalignment with the system all loosened up? Are all the parts stock?

Hey, Monkey, It'd be great to see a picture of that finished product! I took the bait and refurbished my purple-grey Teknos. I've had these on the bike ten years and they've been very good. Yet, I did have to seal a split with black RTV silicone, re-sew a torn strap, and the rigid boards in the side flaps have completely disintegrated. Before applying the Krylon, I scrubbed the bags with a stiff brush and hot soapy water. After drying overnight, I applied the Krylon and once completely dry re-sealed with Scotch Guard water sealant. Warning: the result was good enough that my wife had me refurbish a faded lamp shade. You've been warned . . .

For sure, there are three contributors to failure of the clutch circuit to allow the starter to engage: #1 is failure of the exposed connectors under the left side of the tank. #2 is the crud that accumulates between the lever and the switch including the little ball in the channel of the housing (all easy to clean). #3 is the switch itself which is a $5 fix. Rotating the bars to one side then the other trying the starter button would indicate the connectors are suspect if this triggers a start. The US vapor recovery system weighs five pounds. That is not quite 1% of the bike's weight without the rider.

Like so:

On the stock crossover there is a 3,5 cm rubber spacer and a harder 1,5cm spacer between the bottom of the U-bracket and the tab on the crossover. This all bolts up tight. The harder spacer goes next to the exhaust (above the rubber). A picture is seen on page L-6 of the Workshop Manual for the Sport.

The clear pocket is for maps?? I thought it's for the wiring diagram!

You are right, it is the clutch switch connectors. They are under the tank, forward along the frame on the left. These are simple bullet type connectors which ride in the weather coming in along the steering head. They benefit from cleaning, tightening, and some insulating grease like copper anti-seize or Vaseline. While thank is off, it's good to clean and lube all the connectors, groom the wires and be sure nothing is binding or tugging especially moving the bars lock to lock. It is possible the switch itself could use cleaning or even replacing, but most of the time it's the connectors. How do mean the speedometer is "vibrating loose inside?" Does it make noise or simply the needle is not steady?

It helps to loosen all the clamps and fasteners from the heads all the way to the hangers, then hook every thing up loosely before tightening it all well from the front to the back. The idea being to reduce strain on the exhaust especially where it fastens to the head. It's a good time to clean up threads with a wire brush and apply copper anti-seize, particularly the head studs. With that, it may still take some wrangling especially with some of the aftermarket crossovers or canisters.

Check this FAQ for any helpful info: Corbin Seat Advisory

First Veglia was replaced under warranty at 27,000 miles for waivering 10 mph at highway speeds. The new speedo waivered at low speed, which was more acceptable. Until the trip meter locked up and the needle starting flicking 10 mph every four seconds (44,821 miles). Upon disassembly I managed to break both the reset and the glass. The little plastic gears inside look less than perfect. I have ordered a replacement (298 USD + S/H and a couple weeks), but I wonder if anyone has successfully had a Veglia rebuilt or should I just convert the space to something more useful . . .

Also, "Test Point Layout" and "Guzzi Wiring" do not appear in the FAQ threads. Perhaps they need a thread of their own. I'm afraid to mess with this now, since my efforts have not been effective. Jaap, looks like "Testmember" has Moderator status and may not function like a "normal" member. (Everybody knows Moderators ain't normal.)

Looks like Galaxiid found his grease fitting in Post #22 on page 2. Hey, Stu, definitely get a pic up of your modified grease gun.

That's redundant.

Jaap, your V11 has long been even a LeMans Incognito!

I saw GrumpyBiker's Tekno's at the SSR. They look like new! The Krylon treatment is on my to-do list. (after the weapy rear seal, speedometer, and taillight . . .)

Now there's a Guzzi accessory that really deserves "NORGE" badging!

I was completely cured of my Chronic Guzzichondria when I cleaned my (working) ignition switch. But, that was before my rear drive leak, trip odometer locked up and the tail light quit. I remember reading about these bikes when they came out and one journalist suggested they are fine bikes that will require a bit of "owner involvement." Welcome to the club! Oh, and yeah, your LeMans is an '02. Get the silly spring now and change it when the time comes.

I haven't used my factory bag in a while. It's really big and I prefer a a small, say 8-10 liter tankbag. You can thread the rear strap through under the tank mount and re-attach the buckle without taking the bolt loose. I prefer crossing the front straps so they go into the gap at the front of the tank and not down along its sides. It's not as stable that way, but I can't bear to drag the front straps over the sides of the tank. Over time, the only paint damage I've gotten from always having a tankbag on, is at the back of the tank along the flat portion where the rear buckle rides. Also, the early Sports have the chin pad which can flatten out from the tankbag pressure and not want to stay attached to its little push-in catches. (I've re-shaped mine, but don't trust it to stay put without the tankbag in place).

Seven spine frames arrived at the SSR. While unsuspecting riders ate, slept or otherwise looked on, the Vernier calipers were applied to compare the depth of the pins inside the lock nuts. One Spiney didn't get measured since we couldn't get Michael sufficiently distracted or detained. I couldn't figure out how to check them rolling and this guy never stopped moving! The measurements (in inches): Josh's Sport 1100 - 0.004 right docc's V11 Sport - 0.077 right Dan's v11 Sport - 0.012 left Mike's Centauro - 0.007 right Ron's Centauro - 0.093 left Thad's LeMans - 0.025 right So, it's true, they were all over the place. Some riders could say that for one reason or another their swingarms had been off the bike at one time or another. There was no way to check any kind of 'preload' or lateral play. Josh had centered his swingarm in the carrier plates and I had (tried my best) to center my tires one behind the other. I really don't know what it all means, but figured I would report back. Sadly, no one showed up saying, "I've come to have my swingarm measured!" I do remember the E.TN guys saying, "Nice to meet you. Where's breakfast?":sun:

The trouble with using the level plug is that fluid begins to ooze out a bit early and can lead to underfilling. I once measured a 20% difference between volume filling and the level plug method. That said, the level plug is certainly good to check after a fill to avoid overfilling. With the Redline product especially, so much oil remains clinging to the internals that refilling by volume will surely lead to excess volume and higher pressures. And leaks. If you fill slowly, and take some breaks to allow settling, all the while monitoring total volume added, the level plug can still be used effectively, but don't expect to just pour until it oozes and have a correct volume. Richardson noted this "cascading off the ring gear" phenomenon in Guzziology.

Your profile doesn't say what year or model V11, but the six speeds are 850 ml and the bevel drive used with the six speed is 350 ml gear oil and 20 ml moly. The bevel drive is easy to overfill and overwhelm the seals (ask me how I know, er, no don't). Redline products seem popular and many would say that you can use heavyweight in the bevel box to full capacity with no additional moly. Older bevel boxes and the five speed apparently had a combined capacity of 1 liter (250/750) which seems pretty sensible.