docc

Does a two color LED have three leads? Since the neutral switch is a grounding circuit, how would you connect to differentiate whether the current for the run (kill) switch is coming from the neutral switch/relay3 or the sidestand switch? And, oh my, lots of these V11s have had these systems jumpered. I suppose it's best not to stand about in front of them when they're started . . .

I think way back in the when-ever, I used blue LocTite on my tripmeter shaft. JB Weld is a two part epoxy with a metal substrate. 15 hour full strength which can then be drilled, milled, tapped or otherwise treated like metal.

Yes, I see that hot feed from fuse 5 now. No use using two LEDs there.And, I don't think I've ever heard of Relay1 failing in the open position. Looking at an LED for Relay 3: This LED will light when the relay is closed by the neutral switch, but will also light when the sidestand is up and its switch is closed. The LED would only go out with both the stand down and the gearbox in gear. It would make for an easy check on both the sidestand switch and the neutral switch/relay3 circuits. But you would have to look at the LED first in neutral with the sidestand down (neutral switch/relay3 circuit) and in gear with the stand up (sidestand switch/no relay). Thanks for having a look at that relationship. I first saw this with your Note 13 on the Test Point Layout. Am I seeing that right?

Looking back to the original thread topic, it looks like discussing "adjustments to the front (fork)" would still be on topic. So, GuzziMoto, how does one go about modifying the fork damping internally? Is there a thread on that somewhere that I've missed?

I understand what you mean by the aspects of damping in the fork travel. And I certainly agree it's not a very sophisticated system. I would count the "large holes" in the early travel as the high speed damping which is, as you say, not externally adjustable. Winding the adjusters appears to make very little difference in practical riding. Lighter oils (again, beware: not all "5wt" is the same!), and spring/sag set-up make the real day to day difference.

The template is a good idea. I was thinking of adding an LED to the NO side of the starter relay to show it is live (that would give the one "five pin" relay two LEDs. Still considering colors. Gotta have colors . . . The debate on electrical "lubricants" remains interesting. Dry, white, powdery, or green certainly is the worst case scenario. Mechanites smarter than I have said that silicon dielectric grease is known to infiltrate wire insulation and relays forming the equivalent of glass under heat cycling. I had since converted to copper anti-seize paste, but I'm not really sure what the 'base' paste is.

My 2000 clicks and has rebound on the right, compression on the left. But, it is notable, that these adjustments only affect the slow speed damping. High speed damping can only be changed with internal valving or oil viscosity. Per previous discussion, be alert to evaluating oil by CentiStokes, rather than the less sensitive SAE weights. Springing and preload (sag) remains the key!

5,000 is the sweet spot, yet I usually roll along indicating between 4500 and 5k, and sixth gear pushes the speedometer into Certain Court Date. Remember, many of the white face Veglia tachs are optimistic by 300-500 rpm. Lower rpm means lower charging rates, less oil flow, and more power pulse beating into the gearbox.

So, Roy, What gauge wire for the LED? I'm thinking something as small as 18g . . . Also, how did you route the ground wires? All into one wire? All back to one terminal? To the battery? (I'm thinking of using different color LEDs just for show!)

And here I thought Swedish women were the antidote for those long Stockholm winters . . .

You guys are amazing. And capable, too. Keep this equation in mind as well: + =

You're going to enjoy it much more if you get both the front and rear in the target sag range (the right springs and preload for your weight). Plus your front forks will benefit from an oil change and, generally, lighter oil. There are some really long drawn out debates on all this in the old threads, but one of the best things you can get sorted out on your Sport.

Those Sport guys . . . bunch of renegades, they don't want to be registered; like a collie. Absolutely wild and untamed; those Sport guys . . .

Wow! Ain't she sweet with those AC Cobras!!

No, no little screw on your ECU. Your CO trim will have to be adjusted with a software interface (Axone or VDSTS). As delivered, my Sport was " -27"; bringing it to "0" brought the idle up several hundred RPM and made it more stable. Fuel economy did not change. 460 mV seems low for idle. Another advantage to the software interface is to read the RPM from the crank sensor and compare to the indicated RPM on the tachomater. Early (Veglia) tachs often read 300-500 RPM high. The result is that you should tune with the correction in mind. In other words, a 300 RPM high indication would dictate you set your idle at an indicated 1450. Happy idle=happy oil=happy charging.

At six weeks out, it looks like there are six riders already registered at the Tellico Lodge. Already, two or three will have their wives along and we'll get to meet one fellow's young son! There are two or three others riding over from Columbia that will split off for the Keith Code Track School at Barber's on the new BMW sportbike. There are often a couple who drop in on us unannounced just cause that's their style!. So far, I'm counting four spine frames in the mix. They've become so valuable and vintage no one really wants to bring them out of the garage . . .. They're like Vincents, you know . . . Really, if you're anywhere close, come on by at least for the evening on Friday or Saturday and we'll all compare oil hose routing . . . or you could go ride 195 hp BMWs in Alabama (tough call, I know . . .) Ride well, docc

AAuuughgh!!! Now I've got Double Guzzichondria! :o

I've got it. I've got it bad . . .

They were in the end, but early on (1986 through, I dunno, the late 90s) they were fully designed, built, and assembled in a dedicated plant that made all the major components on site (drive train, body panels, and chassis) They were quite good little cars and the plant was atypical for the industry. Then GM took it over, retooled it to build a heavy crossover vehicle then shut that part of it down. Of course, nobody said they knew what they were doing . . . in fact, now every one knows they don't. Next time, we'll talk about the Saturno . . . just to prove that our Forum Administrator is a well rounded sort.

Your wife has a Saturn? They used to make those here . . .

No indication looking at the old gearbox what could have been the trouble? If your 'new' gearbox is a 2002, consider keeping a spare shift spring on hand . . .

You're in the right place to keep your Sport up to snuff! These guys have kept me going 70,000 miles! Your 2004 will not likely have the shift spring failure. That appears to be largely a 2002 feature. All of Jason's advice above is, of course, right on the mark. I would add: make sure you have a fresh AGM battery (like the Odyssey PC545) and the best relays (I use the OMRON). It won't be long, you'll have to change your username to something more, er, "experienced!"

I was probably not careful enough in my post, but asking if the other indicator lights (oil and hi beam) may also be out in addition to the battery (charging) indicator. If none of the indicators burn, look to the headlight (#2) relay, or perhaps Fuse 5. (The neutral indicator light is on another circuit) EDIT: Jamie, I realize you were talking "charging' lamp, and I didn't mean to confuse matters asking about the other indicators, but I had Sport over a couple days ago that the charge lamp was out and we traced it to the second relay. Otherwise, I remember these bulb sockets having grounding problems. There's on old thread (I think it was Callison) who showed how to epoxy the buggers in place with JB Weld for better reliability.

yet, the oil light does come on with the key?

I'm not sure if I've ever heard of a V11 getting better than 42-45 mpg (32-36 is more common). Yet, that is US gallons. I would still think that would give you no better than 47-53 miles per Imperial gallon, and more likely 45. Looking forward to hearing how she runs out!