docc

I've got the Roadsmarts now, yeah. So far, so good, but smoked up the rear overbraking in a Homer (you mean that guy's gonna turn in front of me? Well, yeah. Duh!) With over 60,000 miles on the Sport now (I dunno how many tires), I'm the guy who gets 4500 out of a rear and MAYBE 6000 on the front (unless it's a "Corse") by basic dog-fight riding: rip it up through the gears and back down: howling all the way. I keep telling myself I'll stop. And this Scotch, too. My fuel economy ain't too hot neither. I'll get back to you on the Roadsmarts. At least they haven't performed like the Michelin Pilot Road-Rash did for me (8^). Ride well, go to Barber's for the Vintage Days, docc

I'm just back from 1035 miles into the Virginia/West Virginia mountains. The Guzzi has never been so unhappy with fuel. Mostly only 87 octane was available, but I wonder if some 'corners' are being cut to give us the gas . . .

The rotors are "semi-floating." Which means they semi "do not" float. Lubricate the buttons with a penetrating oil like Break-Free CLP and tap the rotor around a bit with a mallet. Wipe off any excess oil and see if the shuddering doesn't improve. Consider , also, cleaning the pads with a good brake cleaner and bleed the system well.

Buell (HD) part #s: Outer (smoked )lens: Y0039.K Inner (amber) lens: Y0040.K Also, note that the full assembly is identical to the later (but not current) Triumph Tiger ("electric", or "Girlie"). Same stalk as the V11, but with the amber lens.

I'm guessing your tach lies and the the whole set-up will be happier at a higher rpm. Maybe even 500 rpm higher . . .

You've looked at your Regulator Fuse ?? Also, simply check your battery voltage with a good digital meter. Post what you find, yes?

And, perhaps, the idle speed has just gotten a bit low. Some tachs read high by as much as 500 rpm. If so, your tach could show 1000 while the girls struggles to stay lit at 500 rpm.

Have you looked at your regulator fuse? Melting Fuse Thread

Funny: about the melting plastic and the circuit breaker. I noticed the plastic melting on my fuse (again) and got a circuit breaker thinking it would be more 'durable.' Then, I couldn't get the fuse out: one side had welded in and the other, well the photo shows it cooked off. Again, I can't tell you how much better my bike is running after splicing in the MAXI fuse. And, I've been at this a while. Not my first rodeo and all . . .

What he said^

Just to bring this thread full circle, look at this Nasty Hiccup Thread with pictures and a real solution.

It makes me wonder if the CO has been out of trim for the past 59,000 miles, or if the data in the ECU could be unstable enough that my low and unstable voltages could have caused it to lose its setting. Dave has said before that some of my Sport's issues sounded like there was a connection problem elsewhere in the harness. Looks like the case with the broken blade on the regulator fuse - just enough contact to keep the battery light off, but it had to be throwing some terrific voltage spikes. Hence, the two recent fried relays, short headlamp bulb life, weak charging, and the unstable running conditions. The little ATO/ATC blade fuses just don't seem up to the task. With the infrared temperature results showing a 40-70 Fahrenheit degree improvement, I believe the MAXI fuse is the solution. AFter chasing this for the past year or so, I can't say enough: Check your 30 amp regulator fuse for signs of heat and poor contact!

Andy found the CO leaned out considerably and zeroed it out with the VDSTS, confirmed with exhaust gas analyzer. The Sport runs so much better now, it's really amazing! At this point, I don't know how many threads to tie together: Popping/ sputtering/ melted regulator fuses/ throttle bodies/ lean condition/ unstable idle . . . Over the past several years I have chased a problem with the main ( 30 amp regulator ) fuse heating up (melting, without 'blowing' and otherwise getting *HOT*). I moved it out of the fuse block where the contacts are minimal and soldered in an in-line fuse holder for a 30 amp ATO/ATC fuse. Twice, now, this fuse has gotten so hot as to burn off its contacts (without blowing the fuse). Routinely, this fuse has run temperatures of 130-175 degrees Fahrenheit. Having had the popping/sputtering, marginal charging and lean condition - I found it astounding how the Sport ran after changing the regulator fuse to a full size "MAXI" fuse. (Fahrenheit temperature: 95-105) I've 59,000 miles on this bike and have a good sense of its 'changes.' I'll keep you posted how this goes . . . ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ EDIT/ 30 October 2016 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19672&p=214384 http://www.v11lemans.com/gallery/gallery_328_223_1016816.jpeg EDIT/15 Nov 2016: Alternative Circuit Breaker: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19672&p=214894 http://www.v11lemans.com/gallery/gallery_328_223_1207979.jpeg

Throttle body shaft bushings/seals and a valve job? No . . . that's not til 58,000 miles . . .

The TPS sits in a drink cup. Blow it out with compressed air after a wash or wet ride. Better, seal it with some silicone along the open margin.

Hah! Funny, I was just in a Harley dealer yesterday to replace a signal lens ($4 US from Buell [made in Italy]) I oggled over the Ulysses. And the stripped 1200 Sportster "5". Whats'at?: "5?" Like 'five' what? It felt good bonking my quick shifting, high revving V-twin leaving there. No one talked to me , but the 'parts clerk' (after a *while*), who called me 'sir' {ya must'a got me confused wit som'n else**) and enjoyed the cleavage of the receptionist babes and the coffeeeeee in the "customer's lounge." I'm not sure (having spent $10 bucks on 'parts'), that I even qualify as a 'customer'.

Some longer screws under the fender panel anchor the small bands. I can take some pictures if you need them . . .

Andy reset my CO today with the VDSTS. It has never been set since the factory. We moved it from -27 (0.15 on the gas analyzer) to 0 (0.38). The idle came up into the normal range (1100 instead of 900) and the idle is much more stable now, even idling in the Nashville traffic in the heat. The popping on the over run in the lean 4000-4500 range is improved. It does, however, continue to burp and pop at idle, just off idle and in the lean rang of the map. Better, but this persists. I'm sure Andy is on to it with this throttle body business. I'm looking forward to the fix becoming available at Corse Motorsports. Thanks, again, Andy!

A sample of . . . relay juice? I've resorted to applying copious quantities of Chianti as *she* seems a bit pissed off about the single malts . . .

Hmm, so true. In that thread on TPS variation, Dan M suggests it may be shaft wear on the high milers. How many miles (kM) on your Sport i, Raz?

I just compared the play to another V11 with 55,000 miles and it was much worse than mine (and suffering from the same*pop*-stumble). I still intend to tweak the CO but suspect that the shaft play is going to be a trouble-maker for all the higher mileage v11s.

All of the components are grounded back through the harness to the stack of terminals on the battery. The ECU case has an external ground under the seat. The primary ground is the negative battery cable to the right side of the gearbox where it mounts to the engine. Since most of the grounding is through the harness, all of the connectors become critical. While you have the tank off, clean and apply copper or silver antiseize paste to connectors being careful not to bridge between contacts. Some riders have found it beneficial to add a frame to engine ground strap and separate grounds from headlamps or horns.

There is some play. Especially up and down on the right. Yours?

Well, that's a sweet looking "E-vert." I can''t wait to see what you do with the LeMans . . .

Does this mean we should watch for an 8-valve 1200 in your LeMans in the future?