docc

So this may be a case of the shaft 'ovaling' out the housing? All is well with the throttle open (which is where I like it after all! ), but slow speed turns and idling in traffic are annoying, even alarming if the thing pops in a turn pulling away from a stop. I'm going to try to get to Corse Motorsports in Nashville the next couple of days and tickle the ECU with the Axone. (57,500 miles on the Sport now!)

Interesting instrument(s). Is that an altimeter?

I have retightened the intakes (maybe overtightened?), wrapped them with electrical tape and done the spray test on them. I've thought to just replace them as a matter of course. The positive spray test on the bottom of the TB shaft seems definitive. Does anyone else's raise rpm when the lower shaft is sprayed?

The Garmin 550 Zumo is my first GPS. It certainly has its faults as a navigation tool, but has given me the opportunity to cover some roads I would otherwise not have gone. Other riders tell me its advantages are: the US version has all of NA already loaded, fast recalculation time, it 'keeps up' well at brisk road speeds ( you don't often ride by a turn before the Zumo catches it), the screen brightness and touch features are an improvement over many previous models. Hey and they're getting cheaper (aren't they?)

It's not so pronounced on the left. I've never had a throttle body apart. Surely, it couldn't be as bad as a carburator?

The Sport's been running awfully lean: popping on the overrun, stumbling at idle and such. When I spray solvent into the spring on the bottom of the right throttle body, the idle goes up a couple hundred rpm. I presume the seal on the shaft is done. Are these rebuildable with an O-ring or such? Can I take it apart on the bike?

I can't see how to route the crossover line without going forward and under the frame. More than 30 cm. I'm interested in a solution . . .

I guess that was an 'aside' about the (Irish) Guinness and the (English) Triumphs . I don't think I could get a (Scottish) single malt from the (American) lass at the Hooters. Don't the Welsh make anything to ride or drink?

Here I thought "Scotland - American style" had something to do with riding in the Appalachians, quaffing better beer than we 'colonists' are used to, or flyng the Cross of St. Andrew in the face of the Crown. Had some Guinness yesterday north of Nashville, at "Hooters", after perusing the Hinckley Triumphs. The Street Triple and the lass at the tap makes a fellow hopeful for the world's good . . .

An Austrian-American actor-governor! How American is that?

It does sound like the clutch switch. If it fails, there is no power to the starter ( the starter does not turn over at all). The connections for the switch are trouble prone and found at the left side of the frame under the front of the tank. Sometimes turning the bars side to side will affect the connections and allow for starting. Best, then, to remove the tank and clean, crimp and apply some metallic (copper or silver) anti-seize paste to the two bullet connectors. Good luck!

Damn , and here I thought it was a "Republic' first. I guess I shall have to move to . . . er . . .I suppose I shall stall stand fast where I am. It ain't California, but it will have to do. I'm not sure where this came from, but I suspect it violates our probation. I'd rather talk up my sputtering fuel injection or plans to take the V11 Sport to Barber's Vintage Days in October . . .

I sprayed electronics cleaner all around my throttle bodies. By spraying the spring on the lower shaft, I was able to stabilize the rpm and get it to increase. Is there a rebuild for the shaft seals? A washer or o-ring? I could find no diagram in the shop manual. Pawel, good luck with your dealer support. I hope it does turn out to be something simple!

Seems like these fuels would be predetonating easier. I'm guessing they are using some kind of anti-knock agent to deter this. Good point about the water. This is not going to be good gas to use in my GB500 that sits most of the time. I wonder if Stabil will still be ass effective?

Thanks for the reports and the pics. I knew I was missing something while I was changing the oil in my Jeep today . . . And picking my Sport up out of that slimy creek crossing . . .

Fuel line to the pump got pushed down too close to the left cylinder?

I looked back at your original post and didn't see any mention of the Power Commander.

I'll bet it turns out to be simpler than that. Did you look closely at the rubber intakes to be sure one has not popped loose?

Go figure . . .It runs better on 89 octane. Still, I've never seen it so lean.

Hey, 'least he left a little gap for us bikes to get by on the outside . . . Great roads and great area . . . come to the South'n Spine Raid next year!

I don't believe the throttle bodies can be synched with the Axeone. The manometer will work. The TPS must be calibrated fully closed first, then adjusted for the 3.6 degree opening. You can do this with a multimeter. You can tune this by following the pinned tune-up thread at the top of "Technical Topics." Keep a high volume fan on the front of the cylinders while working o avoid the heat build. Best of luck and let us know how it is going! And, remember, when she is running like a dream, you did it!

If the simple checks above are all good, go the tune-up procedure pinned at the top of the Technical Topics forum.

Good point on the higher octane. It did flame out idling at a stop in the heat today. I may try some 89 and see if it trades stumble for ping. Is the ethanol harder to ignite?

It seems as though every thing I've done has made an incremental improvement. At this point, it will get the occasional *cough* sitting at idle or rolling along in the 'lean' rpm range (4000-4500). It's worse when the ambient temperature is higher or if the motor is hot (stuck in traffic). I'm curious to see if it's worse when I run out of this high octane leaded race fuel and go back to 10% ethanol.