docc

My rear drive showed 130 degrees F today, the regulator fuse: 150 and the fuel system relay 140. So maybe that's OK . . .

Yes, Pete, usually a good tune-up will set it all right. See the pinned thread above on TPS setting. Good riding, docc

David, We missed you at the South'n Spine Raid! Texas had to go entirely unrepresented. I wonder if your idle is a bit on the low side. Even 200-300 rpm could make enough difference to flicker the light. Just over 56,000 miles on my Sport now. You're still edging out ahead of me?

Look especially at the 30 amp regulator fuse. They have a reputation for getting quite hot, can burn off their contacts and never blow the fuse.

Heh, this is probably our only "reasonable conclusion." Although, the speculation and discussion is interesting. It certainly looks as if adding a bit of moly to Redline Lightweight doesn't heat things up! The 'hot' Norge was running Amsoil, but also had several of the lower body panels removed. Perhaps the Norge's pretty clothes flow more air over the bevel drive?

Just to be clear: I didn't take any body down gravel roads. Sure, there was some gravel on the roads, and there was that one section labeled "Pavement Ends." We might not have turned around if the next community on the map wasn't called "Shallow Ford." Wayne is an amazing rider to watch. At least for the three or four corners I could still keep him in sight. And it wasn't so much that he decided to split off and take the gravel descent off the mountain, it's that he got back to the hotel two-up so much sooner than we did. Thanks for the picture link and thanks very much for taking the time to come ride and otherwise hang out!

The hottest Norge (125 degrees) was two-up with 12000 miles. The Norge with 20000 (two-up) and the Norge ridden solo (4000 miles) were both 117-118 degrees The Sport 1100 and the EV have the same bevel box (EV was two-up), but I'll have to ask the EV guy what he was running for oil. (Again, the Sport had fresh RL light with extra moly). My Sport had the only V11 type box and was 118 using RL heavy with no extra moly. I was hoping for the array of v11s we had the last couple years. I think we might have gotten more applicable data. FWIW, I was relieved to have my temps in the average range and not in the hot bunch.

I suppose it is no surprise for the data to be all over the map. Six bikes made the 100 mile run over the Cherohala into NC. After we had stopped just a few minutes I took readings on three Norges (two were two-up), an EV (two-up), a Sport 1100 and my 2000V11 Sport. Three bikes were 117-118 degrees F. One of the Norge and the EV were 125-130 and Josh's Sport 1100 was 105. Josh had recently changed oil to Redline lightweight and also added moly. I don't know if a 25 or 30 degree range is significant, yet it was fun checking and it all looked very technical with the laser and all.

My fuel feed line is shortened, the pump moved forward and the line wrapped with zinc-coated/braided copper. Just back form the South'n Spine Raid, the Sport returned an astounding 39 mpg. It also popped and spit the whole time. The 10% ethanol is rather suspect. My plan is to get Corse Motorsports in Nashville to tweak the CO with the Axone. and reset the TPS to the 150 mV baseline (rather than the 165 I'm using). Although, I must say, from 5000 rpm and up the beast is voracious!

Whew! Back from the SSR (IV) and glad to have spent some time with these good folks! Day two gave us 300 miles what with (mis)using the GPS to find "pavement ends" and a bridge limited to "four persons only." Otherwise the weekend was spectacular. Even with returning through what meteorologists were calling a "descending pressure ridge." I'd call it cold rain with high winds and lightning. Thanks to Bill and his lovely wife for bringing unlimited wit, smiles as well as the espresso and grappa service. My respect to JoeGuzzi for riding the ONLY OTHER v11. Apparently, V11s have become collectors items which no one from anywhere in the southeast US would dare ride to the TN/NC mountains. Whereas, Norges and EVs as well as the Sport1100 seem capable of the event. Next year we're looking at the Tapoco Lodge near Deal's Gap.

I can't believe how difficult this has been to grease the front U-joint! I don't think I've ever actually got the coupler to join with the zerk (55,000 miles). I know it finally did this time (pulled the shock bolt to lower the swingarm) since it was so hard to get the bugger off. After knocking a knarly chunk of skin off me finger (ya know yer bleedin' when you can see it through the nitrile gloves), I believe the front U-joint has a good dose of that Redline greeze. Off to the South'n Spine Raid in the morning. I wish you could all be there. Ride well, and, again, thanks for all the help, docc

Right , then: Andy, I'll call you in the morning; I know you need your rest to blow the rest of us right off the road with your impeccable technique. When I grow up, I'm gonna ride just like you! We're (I'm) gonna miss you at the Spine Raid. If any more hot babes get hauled off in a patrol car, you'll be sorry you missed it! Apparently, the intake clamps had loosened up enough to create an air leak (TEN POINTS AND THE CHAMPIONSHIP TO GREG FIELD!!) While putzing around, wrapping the intakes with electrical tape, I not only vapor locked the fuel feed , but didn't get the clamps tight enough. After cooling everything off and retightening the clamps cold, and hot, the *pop* is gone and I can crack the throttle without stutter. I think we should add a note to the pinned tune-up thread to tighten the intake clamps. I forgot all about them!

Moving the relays may be a good way to see if it makes an immediate difference. Also, with the new battery, go back now and retighten the terminals.

The heat is no doubt resistance related. Also, when I was melting the fuse in my main block, one of you suggested that once the terminals have heated up like that, they will probably never stay crimped well. I believe that is true, sop I must assume my new, outboard fuse holder is munted now. I'm using an infrared temp reader to assess the ranges and location of the heat. I'll try to check a few other fuses at the South'n Spine Raid this weekend.

Planning on leaving the Cracker Barrel 0900. I'm hoping to get there around 0730, have breakfast, laugh, plan and drink copious amounts of coffee. I rode the 'stich though some light rain yesterday for about fifty miles. My left pant leg had an embarrassing looking testament to my continence. I guess I should seal the zipper tapes and spray it with silicone water repellent. A wet crotch and stumbly idle made me a pretty unhappy camper last night.

I really think it vapor locked while I was putzing around with it in the garage. I'm hopeful that the clamps for the intakes were loose and it's now running perfectly again. I'll try it this afternoon. I agree with Raz, changing the holder should have made no difference. And, in reality, it may not have. It was simply the last thing I changed before the problem showed up. I she runs clean, Ill change the holder back to the brass and see what happens . . . I sure appreciate all the help and replies! You guys rock!

The fuel filter was replaced last June, (5650 miles). The valves were set 0.006/0.008 3100 miles ago. It certainly may have lean spots (especially in the midrange), but based on the sooty pipes, plug color and watery eyes of following riders, she's always seemed to run a bit on the fat side. After spraying the intakes with solvent (thinking the idle may have increased slightly), I wrapped the rubber intakes with electrical tape. I couldn't move the throttle bodies back far enough to get them off (I have an extra) due to the middle frame brace I added to the Red Frame (maybe that's why they quit using them!). Upon restarting the Sport wouldn't keep running at all!! Very frustrating. I theorized I'd let it heat sink from running it too much without moving or using a fan. I cooled the pump and intake line and it started and ran. I tightened the intake clamps further. It may be that the clamps had simply loosened over time and needed to be snugged up. I seem to recall Ratchet mentioning this before. I won't know until tomorrow when I can get it out on the road and see how it acts. And, yes, if you touch the cylinder with your fingers it gives you a second degree burn.

Good advice. Certainly, the relays made no difference swapping them around. I went back to the plastic sensor holder and there *seemed* to be an immediate improvement. I'll try to put some miles on it tomorrow to be sure. I 'll spray the intakes and look for a change, but it's rather intermittent compared to what I experienced when the rubber intake split . . .

The Sport's nasty hiccup has returned. This occurred right after I changed the oil temperature sensor holder and the idle dropped about 300 rpm. I have reset the TPS, balanced the throttle bodies and am within 3000 miles of my last (006/008 ) valve adjustment. I swapped the Bosch relays back into the FI and ECU slots one at a time, added Techron fuel system cleaner, tweaked the idle up a little higher: no good: still hiccups! It doesn't want to idle where I put it (effectively 1100 rpm; indicated 1400 on my tach); it drizzles down to an indicated 1050 ( an actual 850). I can reproduce the hiccup (like it fails to fire one cylinder, or drops the ignition signal) by cracking the throttle ever so slightly like you would do to slip the clutch starting off slowly. Leaving for the South'n Spine Raid in two days, this does not bode well. The basics: 2000 V11 Sport Telaio Rosso, 55,000 miles, Guzzi cf (Mistral) cannisters, K&N in the stock box, numerous crimps-splices-hard wires-additional relays-and-fuseholders. What is your edict, oh Man-Behind-the-Curtain?

That's what I did: a hard wired fuse holder outside the fuse block. Yet, it's still obviously very hot. Not sure what to do next . . .

5 amp is the correct fuse for the ECU in position one. I seem to recall some fellows having trouble with this fuse. While using a bigger fuse may be a handy road-expedient way to limp home, as a long term solution it just makes it harder to get the smoke back in the wires . . .

My set-up doesn't get wobbly until half the single malt is gone . . .

That's the Fuel Injection relay that provides power to the injectors, coils and the fuel pump. I also had the GEI fail in that position and recently went to the OMRON. I never did have any Bosch trouble , but replaced them 'for good measure.'

Well, the 30 amp fuse in the external holder burned off its contacts without blowing the fuse. I found this when the battery light came on. Since then I have removed the rubber cap from the fuse holder and relocated it to a less congested location. Still, the fuse runs 150-160 degrees F while the other electrical components (fuses and relays) do not exceed 98. I'm thinking of going to a full size fuse as is used in the power distribution consoles of automobiles.

Ratchet's advice is golden. , oh , yes, and also . Also, beware of front tire wear. I just replaced a Pirelli Diablo Strada after about 4600 miles. I had to start turning up the steering damper as the wear got more advanced. How many miles on that front tire?