docc

The PIAA lives! After buying a new Silver Star ($25 US), then finding I didn't have an 8mm box to release the Stucchi flyscreen ($5 US), I installed the Omron back-up relays I had for my horns (each of my FIAMMs are on separate circuits). Testing to be sure I had them hooked up right, the low beam came on! It was the relay, and NOT the bulb. I'm so glad I had RYLAND's OMRONs to install. Otherwise I would have thrown away a fifty dollar bulb. Here's the relay I thought was good (4 years, 28,000 miles):

I always use the torque wrench and the 120 NM is perhaps a bit tighter than I would have gone by feel. The 'housing side' business has always concerned me. There is a hex drive on that side (21mm nut on the other) and I've never tried to apply that much torque to the hex drive. (?)

I had some ear plugs made by an audiologist (who otherwise makes hearing aids) for about 100USD. They fit perfectly, have lasted years and years and is the best money I've spent on a motorcycle 'accessory.'

The outboard lamp reportedly rotates outward into the curve. I'm not sure how much. It did make my mind busy thinking of all that could go wrong with that system. Right after the end of the warranty. Some riders, with GS BMWs and the like, have taken to aiming their aux lights up and out so as to catch the curve while leaned over. Going straight down the road they refer to them as 'squirrel chasers' as they tend to shine off up into the trees.

I'm reading that as: a sequence of 'flashes' is not good for the bulb. Certainly, this one burned out when I did that. The bucket relays do press against the back of the reflector. I suppose they could be contributing to higher temperatures at the bulb. Of course, they could just as easily form a heat sink and lower the emps. Or the temps at the bulb may be so high it makes no difference. The 30 amp circuits do melt fuses and I have changed mine to a better rated fuse holder. Thanks all the input. BTW, the new BMW 335i rotates the outer lamp in a curve. Tucker lives on!

I wonder if the Omron micro relays would be better than the dimensionally larger units I have in the headlamp bucket. I recall they are 30 amp. And, yes, I'm running hi-beam at all times until it darkens enough to become agitating to oncoming drivers. Passing yesterday, I used the bright-dim switch to flash to pass. That may have been a mistake as it switches the dim on and off. The flash-to-pass switch only flashes the hi-beam and leaves the dim (dipped) on.

And if she was a beautiful woman you have married, you wouldn't touch her? Savin' her for the next guy?

How long ago was that interview?

The GEI I had trouble with were in the FI and ECU functions. I have the lamps wired with a separate circuit and separate relays for lo and hi. I tried fixing mine the way Jaap fixed his, but no dice.

This is apparently true. Although, I don't think we would bee riding spineys if DeTomaso hadn't hooked Dr. John and used Maserati money to lift the design and put it into production. It is also notable that the V11 Sport is reminiscent of the mid-70s V7 Sport whichwas a fine example of the good handling and poer of the finer sportbikes of that era.

The PIAA gave up its low beam today after about 7600 miles. That's about twice as far as the average Sylvania Silver Star. Of course, the PIAA is just over twice the money! I don't use the low beam much but flashed a couple cars while passing. Maybe that did it in . . .

Chancy predictions! Wot's that: by the 'seat of the fingers?' I've done the same going about feeling of rear drives (aw, you quit that!) wondering if mine's running hot. Now, perhaps we'll learn a bit more. Last year there were about a dozen V11 to survey. This year: who knows? I can write you a note saying you must go east for an important scientific event. Just don't be surprised if the locks are changed when you get home. And, yes, that is your Road&Track collection on the lawn . . .

The South'n Spine Raiders (a non-entity that has no membership and meets for a non-rallye in May and includes you) meet near Knoxville, Tennessee in six weeks. There is always a lot of technical advice on everything from 'where to store bail money on your Sport' to 'why didn't Luigi put both your side stand springs on?' Tool rolls abound and I recall one fly fishing seminar. This year I'd like to bring my nifty infra red temperature doo-dad and check rear drive temps after we've made a little distance on Saturday comparing to just what sort of yak fat each of us may be running. The results will be fraught with scientific vagary and questionable methods. I think it will make for some interesting discussion, but is really a shameless 'technical' ruse to invite you to come ride and meet with other V11 Guzzisti. South'n Spine Raiders

*bump* Six weeks out. I hear the Sport down in the basement snarling and pawing at the ground . . .

Just a reminder that the brakes can feel grabby or warped and what is needed is to put a drop of light oil on the float pins. I had replaced my fronts with a set of take-offs from an earlier Sport and thought they were ruined/warped, but they had sat so long that the float pins were stuck. A little Break-Free CLP while tapping the rotors all 'round with a mallet and much improved!

I think the site will only dwindle when the V11 becomes such a valuable collectors' item. Gone will be all the tire and suspension threads replaced by, "How thick of Glass to use on my Guzzi's Display Box?"

Al, I never had a Siemens failure , but replaced with the Bosch to be safe. I never had a Bosch failure, but replaced them with the GEI 'to be safe.' I did have GEI failures in the FI and ECU circuits and replaced them with the Omron to get the bike to run right again. Too early to tell, but I'll keep the Bosch on hand for spares.

I thought the later model front crossover was introduced to remedy the infamous 4000 rpm flat spot (or torque dip). Do these later motors have less of a torque dip in stock form on the dyno? As an aside, I recall a pointed discussion with a lifetime engineer. He assured me that engineers know what they are doing and the information they provide with their designs should be relied upon. Later, I learned that it is vital to understand the engineers purpose since it might not be consistent with what you are trying to achieve. (Kind of like changing the frame and geometry of the V11 to deal with "instability" when tires and suspension set-up may have been the better, albeit less universally attainable, answer. ) The case in point with my engineer acquaintance was the tire pressure specified for the Ford Explorer. At 26 psi, the engineers were attempting to achieve the softest ride possible from the early live axle/twin I-beam suspension. Of course the tires didn't fare all that well and ultimately led to the near death experience with Firestone.

The more you tinker with that Guzzi, the better it gets! Hope to see you in May.

I didn't say "don't mess with the nut" , I just said to do the other stuff first. I don't mind messing with nuts , and in 19 steps or less it can be interesting to see what happens next . . .

halibob, What others have said about cleaning/adjusting the outside shift mechanism and changing to Redline will likely solve your trouble. To meet other Guzzisti, come to the South'n Spine Raid at the end of May just over the mountains near Knoxville. (See that thread under "Meetings and Clubs).

I recall the volumes are 850ml gearbox and 370 ml bevel box.

That's about how long my GEI relays lasted. The Bosch did better for me. I'm using the Omron now and confident in Ryland's research that they will be reliable.

This could end badly . . .

We have been known to reassemble Ballabios at the South'n Spine Raid (late May, Tennessee). We promise to use copious quantities of Grappa in order to obtain a factory result!