docc

Your master cylinders must be different than mine. I can't get the right clip-on to slide in fully without relieving a bit of the metal on the riser. Plus there is a groove in the stock clip-on which will have to be cut into the mounting post on the riser in order for both pinch bolts to go in. On top of that, the diameter is about 0.015" bigger than the stock clip-on. It doesn't sound like much , but I had to drive something in to spread the stock riser to get the stud to go in. Nerts!

Twisted Throttle just shipped their risers to me. I'll post back after I get a chance to check fit and compatibility . . .

I found this link for making a reservation at the hotel : Tellicowest Resort Sorry, she said no discounts unless we have 10 rooms. We might, but we won't know 'til we get there. I recommend hooking up with room mates to defer costs. They do sell beer/wine on premises. There is no restaurant or bar, yet a hot breakfast is served with the price of the room. Closest liquor store is 15 minutes north in Maryville, so come prepared.

I had my stock bar weights machined to take the CRG mount. It was a pricey event ($85US) and the weights are a bear to get out. If you have a later model the weights may be different, I don't know.

Setting sags (often means more rear preload or a stiffer springs), dropping yokes (a few mm), different tires ( I like the Pirellis) are all easy things to tune. Richard, how much did you drop your yokes?

Hmmm, I still think you need to start from square one with the pinned thread and go through the procedure from A to Z. Let's see what happens.

Durn. I didn't get Bingo until Post 12.

Any progress? I'll bet the weather in Toledo is perfect for taking your tank off and running light and horn wiring.

You might find someone on the board who would trade parts with you or have a set of early clip-ons they have taken off.

I suppose you could just unbolt them from the yoke and plug the holes if you don't like seeing them. The greater expense would be replacing the clip-ons unless they are included with the bike. EDIT: I thought about this and wondered-what year is the sport you're going to look at? The early ones had clip-ons and the later were fitted with handlebars like pictured above.

ALdad, I looked back at your original post. Could you clarify: you set the 150mV, turned the stop screw to show 520? But then you say it shows 360 at idle? How did it get from 520 to 360? I see you used the "linkage and right screw" to get balance. That may be where it's all going south. Once the stop is set for 520 (or you could try 500 to lower the idle), only use the linkage rod for balance.

[quote name='leafman60' date='Jan 31 2008, 10:45 AM' post='136805' Snick the lemans in 3rd and enjoy the mountains. Blue Ridge Parkway, Cherohala Skyway, Winding Stairs, Corkscrew Road, and many other wonderful rides await you. Take advantage of where you are . . . South'n Spine Raid? My kids (and wife) are always glad when Dr Jekyl comes back from his ride without Mr.Hyde . . .

I'm in. Check's in the mail. No really . . .

ALdad, More air (counter-clockwise) raises the idle. I've always found my Sport to idle better at 1 full turn, especially in the hot weather. After you set the closed throttle TPS to 150 mV (being certain it is completely closed*), did you then, immediately, turn in the idle screw to bring the reading to 520mV? Balance is a separate issue and should not be confused with TPS setting. (*You're sure the fast idle cm is not in contact?)

Thaing, Did you pass the test?

Last year Nose2wind (david) came from Texas. Otherwise, you could ride over to Columbia, TN, and head out with us from here. There were three or four guys who stayed at exit 46 on I65 by the Cracker Barrel. I'll have to check on the name of that motel again.

ALdad, The pinned method relies on the linkage for balance under way and at idle. Hence, they defeat the right side idle screw. I prefer to use both sides to balance the idle with the stops (the "Jeff in Ohio" method) I don't think it makes a lot of difference either way. The great thing about the pinned method is it doesn't leave anything out and is laid out in a proper sequence. Try going through it again being careful not to get anything out of order.

The dates have firmed up for May 30-June 1. the Grand Vista Hotel in Vonore, TN, looks to be a really nice place. Looks like the rooms come at $89.95 which includes a full breakfast/laundry/WIFI. I'll be calling the management to see if they can apply a discount since there will likely be several of us. As usual, several of us will head out Friday morning the 30th from Columbia ,TN, and take backroads to Vonore (217 miles). :race:

Do the fasteners need to be changed to longer?

Oh-kay . . . so , I know you ride the same silver v11 sport that I do . . . no 'ricambi' appear between the 850 and the 2002 LeMans. "I'm invisible!" (Little Big Man, Dustin Hoffman)

I knew there was at least one other thing . . . Actually this is how we ended up with a pinned thread with as complete a procedure as possible. Many have gotten by with less (my dealer included), but the more complete the procedure, the more reliable the result.

OK, I looked and still no ricambi (parts) for the 2000 Sport. Any where else?

Another? Now we know what you've been doing while we've been adjusting valves and that kind of good stuff . . .

Darn! I've seen this before: no 'recambi' for the 2000-2001 V11 Sport. What gives?

Twisted Throttle has confirmed that the parts are fully machined (in Minnesota,USA). No pressed stud. The finish is anodized gun metal gray. I suppose I would try to paint them to get a better silver match for my Sport. I am concerned that the hydraulic cylinders will not clear well as the bar is raised. My Stucchi mount complicates things.