docc

Yeah, that part worries me; and has bit me more than once. I just thought a little clean and lube might be good medicine . . .

I replaced the relays at 13,500, but had been fussing with the problem for at least a couple thousand miles. Even a change at 12,000 probably wouldn't have caught it in time. My accessory jack is fused straight from the junction blocks for the battery without any relay.

The manual states a specification for vacuum difference between cylinders (7 mbar or 0.5 cm Hg) and for CO (0.3%). How could you adjust the CO "maximum unbalance" if it were out?

I did see one V11 do this until a good tune-up was performed. The owner swore it had already been done, but afterwards it cleared up his misfire.

13,500 miles on the FI and ECU GEI relays. I did find the uncovered fuel pump connection which may have contributed to the failure.

First thing check for a loose or leaking intake rubber. After that you might want to join the relay club . . .

I've got to take my starter off to try and get the neutral switch to work again. Can the starter and solenoid be cleaned with contact cleaner or is that a bad idea for the magnets I've heard are glued on? Should I leave it alone (54,000 miles) or is time for some preventive maintenence?

I thought I had wired the last additional relay to the Sport. Yet, the additional starter relay sounds good and it could be tucked up above the starter which is pretty close to the positive terminal. I've got to take the starter off to try and get my neutral switch working again; I'll look for a good mounting location. What size wire for the hot supply? Is 14 gauge enough or should I go with 12? The simplest solution may be a change interval on the relays. 12,000 miles?

Starter and fuel pump are different relays. What Phil said, try new relays. Dan Prunuske

I think I would like it better in Tenni green with some boxy panniers to give it a more rugged look. Are there any critical specifications available: weight, fuel capacity, price?

We might ought to leave the whole nut thing out of it . . .I think I have a picture of you looking for yours on some Alabama highway . . .

Hmm, I see how that comes out to 49 amps. Doesn't that seem like immense current to energize a solenoid? Seems like you could run the starter motor with that kind of current.

It is certainly worth new relays, especially for your first problem. The second sounds more like mine had been. While the FI and ECU relays fixed mine (for now) ) you may also want to pull the tank to clean, tighten and lubricate connectors. The connectors for the side stand switch could be particularly important for that kind of hiccup. Temporarily bypassing the sidestand switch is a way of seeing if the switch itself could be the culprit (some defeat it, but I rely on mine). A thorough contact clean of the run switch and sidestand switch is a quick and easy job . . .

I'm not at all sure how to convert ohms to amps, but 50 amps seems like a darn high draw for a solenoid (isn't that just a big relay?). After all, what does the starter motor itself draw.

Here is the Foale frame. I'm grateful to Dr. John, DeTomaso and Maserati for pulling a smooth Italian job getting this thing built where we commoners and roustabouts could enjoy it.

I had considered contact bounce as a possibility in the start of my hiccup. As you say, it then worsens the problem and develops to where it occurs without bounce. I don't understand how the Starter Relay NC 87A is under any higher demand than the Headlight Relay NO 87. They flow the same current in the running state. The biggest difference is that the Headlight Relay's coil stays energized while the Starter Relay's coil does not. Having added headlamp and horn relays the greatest current flowing through the factory relays is through the FI Relay for the fuel pump. What changed in the 2004 harness?

I'm feeling small and furry and have a test mule named 'Bella.' . . . I've put a Bosch in the ECU slot since feeling a couple light 'burps' when the Sport is cold and theorizing the ECU relay feeds the FI relay. Otherwise I plan a full connector clean with the tank off this winter. It occurs to me, if the Omrons are used as OEM, what is the application? Perhaps we could simply buy them from the car dealer as relays for the fog lamps of a BMW or the fridge in a Caddy limo?

This is where I got my last few. I believe it is a link to Dennis Kirk, no? They do have free shipping options even on single tires. (Much to my postman's chagrin as he rides HD and is always ribbing me about my "furrin' thang")

That's a good question for Dan. I mentioned the Omron to him as well as the suspect location of the Sport's fuel pump connections.

Ohlins in North America told my Ohlins dealer that this application is "no longer available." Maybe you can still get it in Europe? But you'll have to ask Sven, not Luigi . . .

Count me in. I wonder if giving Dan Prunuske the option of carrying them would yield higher volume for the manufacturer and lower hassle for you. BTW, I see I can get to the fuel pump connections without lifting the tank. One of the rubber boots has slipped off and the connections face forward into the weather. I'll clean them and apply some copper paste thinking that poor connection at the fuel pump may be contributing to the load on the relay. Also, it's important to realize that wiring separate headlamp relays is not to save the relay, but to route the lamp current around the ignition and run switches.

Dan insisted on replacing the relay. You all know he's a great guy! :thumbsup: He is looking into the market for improved relays. I didn't mention the Omron to him but gave him a link to this thread. He said the Bosch had about a 1% failure and the GEI 0.2% (all on Sports). Certainly an increased load on the circuit would tax the relay. I suppose my pump could be on its way out after 54,000 miles. I'll clean those connections when I have the tank off next. The problem had been so random and intermittent I didn't think the TPS and sidestand work actually made it worse. The fact that it stopped immediately when I swapped that relay seems to support that.

Again, not to detract from the thread (sounds like a weak battery), but what is the status of the Omron relays? Ryland would you mind posting on the 'Nasty Hiccup-GEI relay failure" thread?

Thanks, Phil! I thought Ryland was testing some new high zoot relays . . .

I hated to bother Dan with it, but guess I really should let him know. I've been working on this for about 2500 miles ( about a month). I thought I had it sorted before, but never so dramatically as this morning. Having changed plugs, adjusted valves, cleaned connectors, cinched grounds and hots, swapped other relays, cleaned the run switch, cleaned th side stand switch I feel like I'm part of the Sport again. Or at least part of Carl's (kick-a$$) wiring diagram. I see now that there is no relay supplying power to the ignition switch or the run switch. While the power to the lamps (4.68 amps) runs through both the Starter Relay and the Headlamp Relay, I have installed separate relays for both the low and high beam. The relay flowing the most continuous power is, then, the FI relay for the pump (4.7 amps). I'll ping Dan then (got his link handy?)