docc

I repaired my side covers and starter cover by either epoxying fiber board or using fiberglass an the inside of the part. Low tech but effective, I suppose. Is it my imagination or is urethane starting to creep into threads?

Ooh, I've been hoping Rockette Science would come up sooner or later . . .

How is it we can figure this out , but not be able to determine the actual specification of the bolts holding the rotor to the wheel??

Martin, That is great news! Very likely you had a connector not connecting well. And not unlikely it was a combination of fettling that gave your 'cure.' It would have been very frustrating to try them one at a time! Of course, it could have been the chanting. Sometimes Italian creatures do things just to get you to think about them.

I'm thinking the forces pushing the caliper apart are hydraulic, perhaps aided by heat, but the forces on the mounting bolts for both the caliper and the rotor are a function of speed, mass and braking force perhaps multiplied by the torque moments separating the fastening point from the point of rotation and the point of traction. Lot's more force on the mounting than simply holding the caliper together.

Recall that there is also a spring washer stack inside the transmission referred to as a cush drive. I can't see how the clutch springs would add, er, uh, lash-or-whatever unless the clutch is slipping. Certainly the softer the rubbers in the wheel hub, the more 'give.' After all, that's the idea isn't it? To create more controlled 'give' taking force away from more expensive, hard to replace components? now, I haven't looked up 'give' in Wikepedia or anything; it just seems to have the right feel for that-phenomenon-which-is-not-lash-or-slack-but-still-isn't-solidly-hooked-up. If you keep it up forum moderators will code software to insert the term 'loosey-goosey' anytime you type in cush/slack/lash/slop/slush. Then try to get your valve loosey-goosey set right!

I agree it had to be making friction in order to wear into the metal like that, even if it is intended only as a 'gasket.' Mine now has a thin coat of moly, so very little friction if any.

I wasn't really saying that I wouldn't modify the cushies without space age material. If I were to drill them I would like to make some cleaner holes and space them more consistently and uniformly. Not that it would make a hair's worth of difference in how they work and I realize no one sees them but me. It's just how I like to do things. No offense to Greg nor to others, but the only rendition I've seen of these modification looks a bit raggedy. I don't think that takes anything away from its functionality, yet I'm surprised no one offered up a bodge point. My pucks felt as soft as tire rubber. Of course it's mighty hard to gauge durometer with a fingernail while the Wikapedia results are thought provoking. It looks like they're saying the rubber from a solid truck tire (is that like for a tow motor or child's wagon?) is softer than an automotive tire?

If I hadn't been saddled with a wheel bearing change I may have poked my cushies while they were out. I'd still like a more 'elegant' solution, if even cleaner holes maybe spaced with a template to be all uniform. Sure it's a bit anal, but at least I'm not into gerbils with or without duct tape. I did clean it all up nicely, apply silicone grease to the cushies, BelRay waterproof to all the metal parts and bearings, copper anti-seize to the bolts and put it all back together with a new Pirelli Strada. Me bitty wombatty bwain even thought of Pete and his fuzzy buddies while setting my uncalibrated torque wrench to 120NM to set the axle nut torque from the wrong side. A BMW buddy was explaining how they crack the gearbox from the motor and slide it back about every 20,000 miles to put a bit of grease on the input splines where the clutch disc slides; says it smooths the clutch operation and saves the splines. These are surely the same splines Greg referenced as being vulnerable to the engine braking. I've yet to check the Guzzi manual to see if lube is recommended there upon reassembly. It was in the Haynes manual for the R80/100

Thanks for the feedback. When my first bearing went out the dealer sent me a pair. So, I guess you could say this is part of my Seven Year Warranty!

What good is a 10 page thread if someone doesn't dredge it up about every year? I just managed to beat another left side wheel bearing out of the Sport. 14,000 miles on the first bearing, 35,000 on this one. I've cleaned and packed a new French SKF 3204-2RS1 (no C3 designation) Moto Guzzi bearing with BelRay and have it in the freezer waiting to be put in a warmed wheel. I am leaving off the centering collars for the spacer to make the next bearing replacement more reasonable. Other than the hassle centering the spacer each time the wheel goes back on, I don't suppose there is more trouble leaving the little buggers out?

What about for the caliper bolts, which are reported to be marked with a class? Is that specified in the parts guide?

You don't work on your Sport on a Persian rug? Gotta get on board there, buddy. There is a significant wear ridge from the fiber disc into the forged drive hub. As long as it's there just as a seal and isn't supposed to be a friction damper I think I'll try to slick it up a bit more with a coat of moly along with the grease. The disc is self lubricating as the grease slings off the drive splines.

Mine has three discs: the outer stainless steel looking retaining ring, the inner forged steel drive with the splines on one side and vanes on the other, and an intermediate fiber disc(not shown in any of Greg's photos) which looks to be made of a fiber friction material like a clutch disc or brake pad. With it all caked up it looks like part of the black metal drive hub, but it peels off and cleans up. EDIT: The Workshop Manual, Section F page 10, refers to the retaining plate as the "washer", the intermediate fiber plate as the "gasket" and the inner plate as "plate with gearing." It looks like a pretty abrasive gasket judging by the wear indication on the inner plate. If, indeed its only purpose is sealing there would be nothing wrong with a coat of really slippery moly as long as it doesn't sling out on the wheel too much.

I've reached Brembo NA, but they have no engineering department. I have emailed Brembo for the third time. I intend to be relentless on getting a response. Does the Guzzi parts guide have a specification for the 8mmx 1.25x 20mm button head bolts? (I did notice the carrier bolts on the Ducati monster have a Torx drive. Seems smart considering how easily these tear up.)

I've always greased the splines of the hub drive, but I don't see the friction disc in the pictures or any mention of it.

With the drive apart it answers some questions for me , but begs others. I can see now how Dave could suggest affecting deceleration without acceleration. I forgot there are cushes in front of the vanes as well as behind. My rubbers are pretty pliable. I have had this apart before, but only once in 50,000 miles. I did grease every thing with BelRay waterproof grease and use copper anti-seize on the bolts. One of the heads still munted and required a Torx30 to come out. I suppose you could use stainless fasteners in the rust prone application as it appears less critical than a brake rotor? No one mentioned the friction disc between the vane plate and the retaining ring. I cleaned mine with Naphtha (lighter fluid). So, now, to lube: back with the BelRay, use some moly to really slick it up, what?

I believe the later version has the brake carrier clipped to the locator pin. The pin has an extension which extends through the carrier where it is clipped ( not a cotter pin per se, but a spring clip). The '04 we worked on at the Spine Raid had to take the pin out entirely to get the wheel off. This the pin which is threaded through the left side of the swingarm forward of the axle.

The '03 and '04 are surely the best sorted of the series. Greg says the speedo cable trouble has been superseded with a new part. Still, any Guzzi is like having a relationship more than buying and having a 'thing.'

Best $10 you can spend on your V11: GEI relays Best $100: fork springs Best $250: fuel,oil and miles Best $500: exhaust cannisters Best $1000: rear shock No matter what machine you have: bike, car, camera, there is no substitute for the constant fettling and grooming that imparts your animism to the machine. Even then they sometimes fret like a pretty Italian lady just to get your attention.

Dark conspiracy. No Nero Corsa in '02. Scura, yes. How 'bout it, Woolly: big fairing, little fairing, no fairing?

It will be a V11 LeMans if it has a full fairing and clip-on bars. The V11 Sport of 2004 has full handlebars and either no windscreen or a small fly screen. You have a photo?

There is no unthreaded shank on these bolts. Perhaps that is testimony that the shear is not direct but friction grip. I'm more certain now that I can't calculate the force that is created in braking. Last night's sleeplessness had me pondering the torque moment between the axle and caliper as divided by the friction surface. I feel that this multiplies the force applied to the braking system. Jason's assertion that calculus is required is well taken.

I thought a bolt was a finished thing. Seems like the force would be focused across the bolt encompassing it's area. You think it would be spread across the area for the entire thickness of the rotor? It's more engineering than I know. I do have a resource with ME background. I'll try him since I haven't heard back from Brembo yet. Hopefully their engineering and technical people can give the definitive response. Otherwise, I'm mentally preparing myself for the instant at which both my rotors shear off simultaneously. I think my only hope will be to keep them clutched firmly in the calipers while gaulding the absolute nuts off my splines engine braking like a madman.

Sneaking a bit of tyre thread in are ye? Cleaver weasels. I wondered what could be pushing a Scura thread into three pages . . . So, how do the Pirelli Diablo fall in that carcass rating?