docc

Certainly an 8mm shaft would have greater strength before it is threaded. I'm not sure of the thread depth on an 8mm bolt with 1.25 mm pitch, but I would suppose the strength would then be more like a 6mm shaft. I believe the yield strength standards Ratchet cited are for the finished bolt, not just the material, yes?

Wouldn't it be the area of the shaft o the bolt. Technically it would not be based on the diameter of the bolt but the diameter at the depth of the threads, no?

I've heard there's a speedo repair shop in California. Maybe the California guys could chime in on that. I know the Veglia (white face) speedo has a plastic worm gear inside that can trash, loosing the odometer while the speedo keeps on. Not sure about the later gauges.

It seems pretty simple to calculate the area of an 8mm bolt, convert that the square inches and multiply times the psi figure you provided for the A70. Tired of shooting in the dark, I eMailed Brembo NA for their specifications on the fastener and an opinion on the stainless replacements. Now, whether they pass the inquiry on to engineering and technical or over to legal . . .

I'm not convinced the A70 is down rated since there appears to be no clarified rating on the original fasteners. And you're right, I used the bolt diameter, 8mm, for the calculation and should have used the area, 50 mm sq. converted to inch measure. Refiguring, I get just over 5,000 pounds per bolt. 60,840 pounds, or 76 g's, to shear them all.

If A70 stainless bolts shear at 65,000 psi, and all 12 would have to shear simultaneously for failure, then over 245,000 pounds of force will have to be applied. I wonder what kind of front tire would still make traction? That's 300 g's for an 800 pound machine with rider. I think I'd pass out first.

The fuses and relays all check out?

Just for clarification, this is what I think Greg said about where he has found the wear. I can't visualize this interface as I've only had my clutch exposed once. I suspect this is an area that will tolerate zero lubrication.

Reviewing the shop manual (and admitting that it has been sorely lacking in some cases), there is no specification for bolt hardness or even the recommendation to fit new bolts upon reassembly. Only to apply Loctite 270.

I get it. Even with the very slight increase in 'play' or whatever, the softer end points have got to be desirable. A slipper clutch for the perforcably thrifty. The motor mounts on my Volvo and the suspension bushings on the Cherokee are all upgraded to urethane. I can see this as an elegant alternative to swarfing the bench with rubber slag.

I don't see any marks on the original button head bolts at all. Am I missing something?

The original fasteners are ferrous and have no markings. So what is their rating?

I used stainless bolts. They seem a little soft torquing them up to the 30NM. I munted one and had to re-use one of the originals. I learned the line indicator from a pilot friend with a turbo Kawi 1000. I've used it on the shaft bolts having found one backed off a bit. Most of the yellow paint is on the injection adjustments to deter tinkering. Or to help tinkerers find all the screws to turn. The whitish lines on the rotors are different and, I suspect, one more attempt to show due diligence in keeping the rotors from coming loose. My 'new' (slightly used) rotors are a bit grabby. I'm hoping the slightly used pads will bed in and the whole affair will smooth up.

These things are notorious for leaking. Having had it apart does it look like it can be resealed with conventional O-rings or such?

Bought new, now 7 years old with 49,640 miles. Nothing major after the broken gear case and gearbox replacement. Tranny seals, instruments, wheel bearing, lots of electrical modifications to head off the 'lektric gremlins . . .

The dirty deed is done. Propane for about one minute, rap the new hex drive twice then the Lisle impact drive three or four times with a 20 once (500g) machinist's hammer and turn the bad boys out with a breaker bar. I only munted one coming out and one going in having to resort then to the chisel and punch method. The thread locker on the original bolts coming out was definately blue not red. Should I repaint the little lines that would show them backing out as on the factory set-up? (What do you call those lines, anyway?)

Straighten up there, boys. You're being moderated by a guy with a German bike. And if we're gonna have vampires, let's have Catherine DeNeuve and Suasn Sarandon from The Hunger. I'd be helpless . . .

Thanks, Emry. Hammers I got. The local parts store (not AwtoeZoan, but the kind with dirty floors and counters) has a driver made by Lisle. I may give it a go since I can have it in the garage today. If it breaks I know where to order that Snap-On! I'll try it with the new SK hex drive as they say it's a no-questions-replacement -guarantee.

Hazards of the internet: every time I think I've got my Sport well sorted something new gets added to the list. This sure looks like time well spent. Er, but "shnorr" washers? Waazzzat?

Some years back I tried using the Axone (is that the right spelling?) to check my CO. The reading was all over the place. The experienced and reliable tech (Alan at Corse Motosports) felt it was the oil had some miles on it and this can throw the readings around. If you are taking time to put your Guzzi on a gas analyzer to set the CO, make sure you have a recent oil change to make the readings more stable. Otherwise, a good digital voltmeter for the TPS, feeler gauge to set the valves, and some way to balance the throttle bodies is all you need for a good tune-up.

I believe the missing wire is the one which the ECU reads the voltage. Without it the bike thinks there is no charging, hence the voltage light stays on. Couldn't you hook this wire to the harness or battery where it is hot and get a reading which turns the light out?

greg, no upgrade for the earlier Veglia with the bevel drives?

So, Pete, are you a 'sump puller' or can you be content to change the filter through the access hole?

Norman, Relay Failures is a good thread to read about the wiring of the v11. I have added a ground strap from the frame to the timing chest, moved the terminal stack from the battery to a junction block ( also called a 'bus'), grounded the horns and headlamps to the frame, and anchored the grounds inside the instruments. Have a look at this Accessory Fuse Box thread. Also, consider cleaning, tightening and applying copper anti-seize paste to any connectors you run across. Over time the electrics get better and better!

Hey! I resemble that remark!