docc

Oh, sorry, not the extra fuse, but the connector (coupler) you asked about should be for the diagnostic tool. Best way to add an accessory power source is probably through a junction blck. Try a search on that and check some of the solutions others have done. let us know how you sort it out.

Si,si . . . in a sing-song manner as Alice Agostini would . . . MO-tuh GOOT-zee

Er, OK, I'm marking 'yes' as the best answer. Reallize the total surface area available for connectors inside the fuse block is limited. An inline fuse holder will likely be more reliable. What are you trying to power up? The connector, I believe, is for connecting the factory diagnostic tool.

36lbs/in translates to 0.64 Kg/mm which is right in the zone of suspicion. What are the actual wire, diameter and free coil counts?

EDIT: May 22, 2007: This is my fourth Sylvania Silver Star. They've lasted from 3000 to 6000 miles at about $20US. I like the light , but the reliability is no good. I've installed a PIAA X-treeme white anti-vibration $50 bulb. We'll see . . . ( "see" . . . haha, no pun intended . . .)

Yo, Ratch, you have some old early Marz springs. What do they measure and how does their rate come up on the 'calculator?'

using the Guzzi spec Ohlins springs I hope to put in the sport's Marz forks I counted 14.5 free coils, 0.1855 wire diameter and 1.09" coil diameter. This calculates to 92 #/", or 1.65 Kg/mm. Not likely , so what gives? EDIT: OK, sorry , I used inside diameter. Center-to-center I get 1.26 ", 0.1855 wire diameter and 15 free coils yielding a Kg per mm rating of 1.04 for the Guzzi spec Ohlins spring. Otherwise, is it the free coils in the spring when uncompressed (free length)?

Thanks. I swear I had this figured out at one time. The time has come to re-immerse myself in the sport in preparation for the South'n Spine Raid. Now back to that fork thread . . .

This makes perfect sense. I was aware of the temp sensor up front of the the left cylinder, but the same treatment has to be done to the oil temp sensor behind the right cylinder? What does the contact insert look like? Just a scrap of metal shaped up somehow?

US Guzzi rep? As in, from NY? Or from PEE-azgh-ee-oh?

Great news, Joe! I've always liked the Coppa but have never seen one in person. Maybe it'll grow on you. How long have you been without as V11?

Are the Ohlins springs fitted to the Guzzi somewhat stiffer than the Marz springs ? Speculation has been that the Marz springs are 0.6-0.7. Will the Ohlins springs fit the Marz forks? (Sorry about the aside . . . looking to upgrade.)

And now, after the charge, how do your voltages look?

Try tightening the battery connections. How did that voltage look?

My Spark made it 5 1/2 years, amazing for a motorcycle battery! But the Hawker makes the Sport run much happier at 12.8 v than the Spark's later days at 12.5 v. Apparently the ECU, TPS and even the fuel level sensor are voltage sensitive.

So . . . I backtracked this route on Thursday looking in every dive bar, strip joint and greasy spoon from here to Suwanee. No Goozzees. Where'd these guys really go?

I seem to remember mine fitting better with the lower mount to the inside of the passenger peg/exhaust bracket.

This does have the sound of the clutch switch ( safety ignition switch). It is located at the clutch lever and will not allow starter engagement without the clutch lever squeezed. The likely culprit is actually two bullet connectors under the left side of the tank near the steering head. They could always use a good clean, lube, crimp. Some have found that rotating the steering fully side to side could trigger some connection. Certainly upgrading to the best available relays is good medicine. Try tapping on/wiggling the center relay for any effect. Also swapping the relays around is worth a try. Keep us posted.

While the cam chain, TPS and even the temperature sensor may all be suspect, remember that the tach may be optimistic. Mine reads 300 rpm high so that idling the bike at 1100 indicated means she's trying to stay alive at 800. Does not make for a happy twin at idle. Resetting the idle to an indicated 1300 sounds high but not if the true idle speed is actually 1000. Of course resetting the idle speed means going back through the entire TPS/ TB balance procedure. The crank sensor on the left top of the timing cover is known to loosen up. Usually they'll get weepy but also could affect the pick up clearance. Always looking for the easy way out . . .

Thanks for the feedback, guys! Funny how something like this affects what you feel and hear while you ride.

Cleaning the Sport up to go chase down Bill Hagan I found one of the pinch bolts on the shaft loose where they attach to the input for the bevel drive. After tightening them some play remains in the input to the bevel drive. I assume this is the pinion and thought maybe the carrier bearing is done. No leaks, no vibration. 47,000 miles and you'd think I had wiggled this before. If so I never noticed the play. How much play is normal?

Check the battery voltage with a good digital meter. Low voltage could do this.

You're riding right through my hometown. Let me know when you'll be here and I'll create a diversion south of town . . .

This is going to be a great rallye, great roads, great band and such. Wish I could make this one but am committed to a survival outing for Scouts. No shelter, no food. Ya'll have a good time up there on the Kentucky roads!

This is good news! I know Alain and Andy will have you back on the road soon. Looks like a chance they'll be an injected Sport along as well for those intense parking lot comparison sessions.