docc

Is it possible to fit the Swan Neck bars from the earlier V7 to the 2000-2001 V11 Sport? Were these also used on the 750S and S3? (Looking for an elegant and proper solution to the achy wrists.)

And so ,Pete, what would be the advantages of 0.004/0.006 versus the widely held view that 0.006/0.008 is altogether 'better?'

Sorry. I'm sure I was more crabby this morning. But, it is awfully tempting to get in the "within" 0.001 debate. Harder yet to get into what one can "feel." Being trained to palpate (feel biologic tissue skillfully) we used to practice finding a hair under 200 pages of the Guyton's physiology book. I can tell you some could feel more than others. "Within" 0.001 seems to me to be +/- 0.005. If it were to be +/- 0.001 that would be a spread of 0.002, or "within" 0.002. (There, I got he pedantic part off my chest ). I do agree with the 3-blade method. And the requisite air-cooled VW Beetle training. ("When you can adjust the VeeWee's valves on youir back in the dark and rain, you can have a Guzzi, Glasshoppa. ) I'm shocked no one has yet used the phrase, "stone cold."

I'm sure I can pi$$ 0.001" further than +/- 1/10 of 1% of the Chosen Fifty. I'm sure you guys can see how really pedantic this is. it doesn't surprise me for midwinter where there is a meter of snow in front of the shed, but California? I need to send you fellas a couple bucks for gas . . .

Sounds like those lines might be the small vacuum lines for the tank vent and overflow. Are they 1/2" or more like 1/4"?

It never occurred to me to snug up the bolts visible when the sump is off. I'll have to put that on my list of things to do . . .

Some say Redline in the bevel drive smooths the shifts. Maybe that would help your whine.

This one broke in the first coil. I checked it really closely in the upshift and found that the coils slide and twist outward on the boss. This boss had a little groove worn into it and I don't imagine the (flimsy) little spring liked being bent sideways. Unfortunately I didn't have the insight at the time to look at the spring in downshift. As has been noted, that's when the coils tighten the most.

So with my 15 mm boss, what broke my spring?

Was the 1999/2000 V11 Sport the first to have a vent?

It may be for ease of assembly versus any real adjustment. The pawl and gear assembly would be easy to put together with the limiting post rotated away from the pawl.

I'm just so glad to be on the road again. Frankly, the guys that I was riding with were a bit aghast that I would think I could diagnose the fault. But, with this forum I knew exactly what had happened. Five days later I am riding again! $10US with shipping. Too many BMW riders would have to add towing and shop labor! Thanks again to all of you who regularly help keep my Sport on the tarmac!

While the Sport has 54,000 miles, this gearbox was replaced new and complete under the y2k 3 year warranty. It has 27,500 miles on it. The side cover casting has the date: 9 01. I put the box together last night (Greg had the spring to me in four days counting Christmas! I told you guys he was really Santa! ) I'm waiting a couple more hours for the sealant to dry and the Redline to warm up. I wish now I had taken time to smooth up the ramps on the pawl arm. I read that too late. I did smooth up the boss and the sharp edge where the spring hooks over. Thanks for all the feedback.

Brake light shouldn't affect the turn signals. Low battery voltage would slow the signals at a stop. Check the voltage with a digital voltmeter. Let us know what you find . . .

The post is an apparent stop that presses the pawl firmly to the to toothed gear as the shift is made, either up or down. It is an eccentric as you can see in the photo of Post#1. You can also see lobes on the back of the pawl for both the up and downshifts. The travel and return of the pawl are not controlled by this spring and stop, but by the symmetrical spring and the eccentric adjustment covered by the acorn nut. Apparently the spring which breaks applies tension to the pawl as it begins to roll the toothed gear shifting either up or down and the stop provides direct pressure to the back of the pawl as the toothed gear comes into engagement. It certainly doesn't look like this could be contributing to spring failures. It is not mentioned in the shop manual and I wouldn't know if there have been service bulletins since. The boss for my spring does measure 15mm, but is gualed where the spring has been binding. I'll clean that up with some wet-dry paper on reassembly when th spring arrives (maybe this week!).

OK, I see it now. The adjustment maintains contact of the pawl in the upshift where there is no play at all between the pawl and the stop.

Right. That would be the eccentric whose adjustment is under the acorn nut and adjustable from outside. It is on the left of this photo: The other (hidden) eccentric is visible on the right of the photo, middle of the plate. It is nutted on the outside and adjustable from the inside by a screw slot. It appears to limit the lift of the pawl off of the shifting plate.

I knew the throw of the pawl is adjustable under the acorn nut. But, with the side cover off I see there is an eccentric that, apparently, limits to travel of the pawl away from the shift assembly. Mine has a gap of 0.039" . MAybe less would take some strain off the springs that break??

Having limped the V11 home in second I felt happy to have reached Santa Claus (Greg Field) in the North Pole (MI in Seattle). While sitting on Santa's knee (calling 1-800 with my Mastercard in hand), I asked for what I really, really want for Christmas: Sugar Plums (a pawl spring for my six-speed). I've been a really, really good boy (er, shuure I have ) and I hope Santa (Greg) will send the elves (USPS) with my sugar plum (spring). To all of you: a Merry Christmas and Glorious New Year!!

Lovely ride today in the lead of 5 other bikes and the Sport stuck in second. Until I managed to downshift it into first. Once. I'll bet they noticed the pace changed up a little. Upon stopping at a safe place to split up I leaned over to look at the shifter and my left leg zipper on the Aerostich popped open to the calf. Great! A Wardrobe Failure on top of it all. I had to lie down on the pavement to coax the zipper back up. Cars stopped, cameras came out, but not an offer to help with my zipper. I bet they would have helped Janet Jackson with her Wardrobe Failure. That's what I get for riding with a macho crowd whose motto is, "If you can't pull up your own zipper, we're splitting up your gear." Finally back in second I had a nice solo ride home to get the side case off and order the spring. For those of you who claim to have done this on the roadside, you have my admiration. But you'll still have to pull up your own zipper . . .

For sure I think my charging output is closer to 13.5. I did discharge the battery 3 minutes with the lights on, then 1.5 amps for about 2 hours. This morning it was showing a full 12.8 before the pawl spring broke. Too much voltage?

Weird. My Odyssey in the V11 and the new Optima 34/78 in the Jeep both want to show 12.61. I think they should throw a resounding 12.84. What gives?

VA Sean, how could I have missed the *original* post? To think we'll soon celebrate this thread's two-year anniversary (a record among the vacuous world of veiled forum vapours. I count us fortunate not to have suffered either 'chiropractic' nor 'veterinary' hooters. Don't let this give you hooligans any ideas! So far this has been a good, er, fun thread with only a mild transgression or two. What's missing may be the 'Hooters with a bike in the background' theme . . .

True. Ugly like a Rottweiler, though. Purposeful, I think, for the task. Every time they try to make these bikes look pretty it's like putting make-up on the Rottweiler. It looks silly and pi$$e$ off the dog.