docc

So, what's in the box when you open it up? Too bad about the way he treated the connector. Using some heat shrink and soldering those wires would be a good approach. The accessory outlet looks like it's for an electric vest or such. I think those are referred to as 'Powerlet' connectors.Compare it to what you see in the Aerostich Riderwearhouse catalog or Whitehorse Press. And make sure it's fused. Routing the original horn wire (from the swwitcg) to the horn relay will activate the relay. A fused hot from the battery to the relay makes power for the horn. 14 guage is good though some have gone bigger. Most Fiamm set-ups have two horns. Check out some solutions by clicking this thread on"Horns" . Best of luck! Perhaps you could ride the thing to the Tennessee Mountains for the South'n Spine Raid in June.

Have a look at this Super Hawk thread by RonV11 in Washington, USA.

Hell, now I'm afraid to change my filter at all.

I've a friend with a magnificent V7 Sport that he'd like ( I think) $8500 for. It needs transmission seals but is otherwise spectacular. I remember when my V11 Sport was worth $8500. I understand the early tanks will bolt up to the later Tonti frames. I've heard of people converting Jackals. Others on the board know more about this so I hope they'll chime in and maybe show us a picture . . .

Hmmm, I've never heard of them leaking there , only at the throotle body, usually the right. There are special o-rings for use with fuel. Begins with a 'v.' What is that stuff?

Has the specification for the lube in the bevel drive changed or still the moly cocktail?

Remarkable , the cool people on this forum!

Heh, lots of th Guzzi stuff reminds me of my old 1950s Lionel Trains - all switches and solenoids - no spooky black boxes with thin solder lines holding sway against a 120 kph wind.

OMMIGOSH! JOE! Just shows to go ya that none of us fell very far from the tree. I don't know how you can really replace that trick Sport of yours. The later ( '04/'05) Sports were probably more refined, fitted and mannnered than the early RedFrames. They have a more relaxed ride and gentler riding position. That and the Ohlins option certainly give you a more forgiving platform than the early Sports. Fly to Atlanta, buy the Coppa and stay at my house in Tennesse on your way home. I'll write you a note saying you'll be late. Epizootics or something . . .

Critically setting the valve clearances is fundamental to the balance. It is Step One in the procedure. And although the maintenance interval is 6000 miles, I can feel a difference doing the Sport in 4000. Plus, I just like doing it.

I really like my CRG barends, but looking very deeply into them doesn't reveal if that's a Crown Victoria or an F15 closing on you way back there. I'd gladly surrender a little field of view if they weren't quite so convex. Also, use a little blue Loktite on the retaining screw. Those replacement lenses are pricey.

The vibes do quiet a bit as the break in develops. 4500 isn't many miles. That said , the state of tune is a huge contributor to smoothness. Certainly letting the valve lash out to world specs is helpful. As is a caring and meticulous approach to synchronizing the intake tracts. I believe the typical spec is to have them within 5 mm Hg, but it's easy to et them closer to 1 and makes a lot of difference. Jeff in Ohio gives us this procedure for a reliable tune-up.

This is good medicine, removing the terminal stack. I did this by using junction blocks zip-tied to the frame. The positive side uses the mount point for the flasher and one zip-tie. On the early Sport the flasher has to be relocated over near the relay block. This requires relieving the seat pan with a Dremel and reseealing with black RTV silicone. The photo shows the juncton blocks as well as fuses for an accessory port and separate horn circuit. The headlamp circuit has a breaker in place (thanks again,Gary!) After having the melting 30 amp regulator fuse, I added the outside fuse holder for that circuit and put that terminal feed directly back on the battery. [ EDIT/ March 27, 2019: the outside fuse holders all melted or burned up. Even the Maxi-fuse holder. In November, 2016, I worked in this aircraft grade circuit breaker instead of the "fuses" and fuse holders that repeatedly failed on me. ]: A better view of the junction blocks. Periodically checking tightness as the connections settled in was necessary:

Er,yeah, me and the Bonnie Blue just needs ta 'no.

the procedure really needs to go in the FAQ since this has cropped up more than a couple times . . .

Ryland, how many turns again to seat the UFI filter?

I thought the thread was about a 1991 1000S getting some powder coating . . . It all makes the Hooter's thread seem pretty tame. Quiet lately, but tame.

Well, ok, I voted. But like so many democratic processes, I'm not sure what I voted on. Moto Guzzi will always come out ahead of BMW or KTM and the redhead looked better to me than the 70 year old.

Jens, Thank you for your reply and this effort. I had thought that tritium is phosphorescent and emits light whereas the typical material for watch dials is luminescent and must absorb energy from another light source?

This is a very beautiful design! I'm teetering . . . I had hoped that my next watch would have a tachymeter. No hope of that for this project I don't suppose? ( I know everyone would like something different.) Also, I searched and read and didn't see anything of the dials or numbers being luminous.( Is that the correct term for 'glow-in-the-dark?')

Two men, two up with a grenade launcher looks to be all the suspension travel an XL 650 has available!

I have been thinking of adding a chronograph to my small ( very small) collection of two watches. Both are quartz and both Swiss. Wearing three watches leaves two in the drawer much of the time. How critical is it that the mechanical watch stay wound and running? I've seen those automatic watch winders but wonder if that is necessary?

Having looked at my ride record, I see the Guzzi went out once for 30 miles in the last 7 weeks. Ignoring that one ride, the voltage loss was about 1% per month and consistent with the 1-3% range per month expected. Also, I'm interpreting the temperature data as saying to expact to charge at a higher voltage if it's cold. So, perhaps it was OK to run the charger at 16v in the 50 degree garage? Just think . . . pretty soon we'll have our batteries charged, fork oil replaced and we can go riding and talk about tires and oil again!

Your lazer beam spreads to 10 cm (that's 4 inches) in a meter? The one I used was mounted in a 12" level and spread to maybe 3 or 4 millimeters next to the front tire which is a distance of around 1300mm. Certainly any variance in the mounting surface would magnify the error. Better stop using those Cheng Shin seconds on the Guzzi . . .