docc

Count me in. I wonder if giving Dan Prunuske the option of carrying them would yield higher volume for the manufacturer and lower hassle for you. BTW, I see I can get to the fuel pump connections without lifting the tank. One of the rubber boots has slipped off and the connections face forward into the weather. I'll clean them and apply some copper paste thinking that poor connection at the fuel pump may be contributing to the load on the relay. Also, it's important to realize that wiring separate headlamp relays is not to save the relay, but to route the lamp current around the ignition and run switches.

Dan insisted on replacing the relay. You all know he's a great guy! :thumbsup: He is looking into the market for improved relays. I didn't mention the Omron to him but gave him a link to this thread. He said the Bosch had about a 1% failure and the GEI 0.2% (all on Sports). Certainly an increased load on the circuit would tax the relay. I suppose my pump could be on its way out after 54,000 miles. I'll clean those connections when I have the tank off next. The problem had been so random and intermittent I didn't think the TPS and sidestand work actually made it worse. The fact that it stopped immediately when I swapped that relay seems to support that.

Again, not to detract from the thread (sounds like a weak battery), but what is the status of the Omron relays? Ryland would you mind posting on the 'Nasty Hiccup-GEI relay failure" thread?

Thanks, Phil! I thought Ryland was testing some new high zoot relays . . .

I hated to bother Dan with it, but guess I really should let him know. I've been working on this for about 2500 miles ( about a month). I thought I had it sorted before, but never so dramatically as this morning. Having changed plugs, adjusted valves, cleaned connectors, cinched grounds and hots, swapped other relays, cleaned the run switch, cleaned th side stand switch I feel like I'm part of the Sport again. Or at least part of Carl's (kick-a$$) wiring diagram. I see now that there is no relay supplying power to the ignition switch or the run switch. While the power to the lamps (4.68 amps) runs through both the Starter Relay and the Headlamp Relay, I have installed separate relays for both the low and high beam. The relay flowing the most continuous power is, then, the FI relay for the pump (4.7 amps). I'll ping Dan then (got his link handy?)

BJ, The first answer is usually 'relays.' That might even explain the blown fuse. What kind of relays are in the bike now? How many miles on it? How far are you from the Tennessee line at I65?

Yesterday I took the TPS off and found there is access to get contact cleaner in. Of course that means there is access for nastiness to get in as well. After the cleaning and resetting with throttle body balance, the Sport didn't stumble on a 12 mile ride. Last night I unbolted and cleaned the side stand switch, forcing dielectric grease in past the plunger. I'm anxious to ride today, hoping the nasty hiccup is gone . . . (later): Well, the hiccup was awful the first five miles. Even so bad as to go into a sputtering ignition failure then come out of it suddenly. It felt like coil failure, but on both cylinders. I stopped and swapped the FI relay for one of the Bosch I keep for extras. Another 35 miles and the Sport never missed a beat. Plus, by the seat-of-the-pants dyno I'd say she picked up horsepower from 65 to 71 or 2. The GEI have been in the bike 21 months, 13,500 miles. The FI relay flows power to the coils, injectors and the fuel pump. Per Ryland's measures this circuit flows 4.7 amps. What is the status of a replacement relay with a higher rating?

I want to like this bike. I liked the last Quota if it weren't 575 freekin' pounds. Yet, this 'floating panel' design style doesn't sit well with my aerodynamic sense of "if it looks right, it is right." Maybe in all black . . .

The Sport has developed a nasty hiccup with quick throttle changes, like gear shift or pulling off a stop. I've tried a few things already and cleaning the Run Switch made a big difference ( for a while). Maybe she needs a new Run Switch, but I remember a post in the Throttle Position Sensor thread that referenced "cleaning" the TPS. How is this done?

I don't think the piastra colleg did anything for handling. It was tedious to install, but my gearcase has not cracked again. All the bracing, the wider tire, longer frame and even handlebars arrived when Aprilia took over production and responded to all the grousing and griping about the early Sport's vibration and weave. The later Sport certainly has a more plush ride, but all the RedFrame really needed was suspension set-up and different tires. Those Pirelli Dragon Corse sure didn't like high speed straight lines with any cross wind; especially if their pressures were down a bit.

I am hoping for a good, lighter 'Quota.' The Sport has begun to hurt my hands on the longer rides. I don't care for the bikes styled like insects. Maybe the Stelvio will come in as a 'machine' for the rider.

Hmmm, sounds like the 'clutch switch.' The switch itself will lock the starter out. Listen for a little 'click' when pulling the clutch lever in. A good clean and lube of the micro switch itself may be in order. Also ( and perhaps more likely) are the bullet connectors at the left side of the frame under the tank. They do benefit from a good clean (electrical contact cleaner), crimp and lubrication ( copper anti-seize paste) with a weather sealing with heat shrink tubing. Some have found twisting the bars from side to side will stimulate the connectors into starting the bike . . .

The neutral switch can be removed and cleaned. Even before that I would clean, tighten and apply copper antiseize paste to the connector under the boot (behind the starter). Some have reported that running Redline Shockproof in the gearbox has helped the neutral switch. The trouble with the neutral switch theory is that the sidestand switch is an alternate source of current when it is up. Did the starter turn over or no?

With the ignition on and the run switch off there is no power to the coils, injectors, pump, or ECU. It took almost 40 minutes for my Hawker to run down to 11.50 DCv. After 'whacking ' the battery at 5.5-6 amps for an hour or so the sustained voltage seems higher than before. Off to Barber's Vintage event tomorrow. Hope to see some of you there . . .

I was thinking a dealer could check this for you. I'm not sure you can get the information directly.

The clutch switch will account for non-starting , but not rough running. The run current goes to the run switch through the side stand switch.

george, Thanks for the tip. Actually, we stayed at the Super8 there year one. It was pretty entertaining once we found out it was the weekend haven for all the cowboys and their hussies from neighboring counties! Another rider suggested the Grand Vista near Vonore: tellicowest.com

The charts are on the last page of section P.

Looks like, in terms of wattage the system uses around 150 watts with around 300 available in typical cruise ranges. You cruise at "1500?"

Ha! We know we're old f**kerz. We keep lookin' at the same b'zooms agin an' agin.

Ry, This is true. There is no spec for what the bike draws to live. I pulled that number from a prior thread ("Battery Leaks", I believe; a great thread due to the contributions of GARY CHEEK). I would still like to know what the normal current draw is for a running V11. It may vary for the later model fuel pump, I dunno. Most accessories are rated by amperage. I edited my specs on Gerbing gloves as they are rated 22 watts, the jacket: 77 watts. The Gerbings vest: 54 watts. Aerostich says their vest is 45 watts. Widder (in the Whitehorse Press) states their vest ranges by size: 33 to 48 watts. I recall heated grips being 16-18 watts(?). The change in amperage with voltage is one of those scientific slide rule phenomena that kept me out of engineering. I figure the "acid test" is to plug up the electrics you want to use, set your lamps the way you use them , turn on your GPS and Radar detector if you use them, cue the Bluetooth and the MP3, your transponder, transporter and any other electrofunk and zap that you routingly use, then measure the voltage and rpm that will hold above 12.84 DCv for the AGM battery. I'm finding 100 watts makes my Sport unhappy( as in,"come get me, Honey, the bike's dead.") I'm thinking of getting the Aerostich vest at 45 watts and go for the core temperature effect. No matter what ( hey, I live in th' Deep South), 40 degrees F is my riding limit. Below that too many Deutsche und Skandinavian cars give ice warnings (either 38*F or 36*F). I don't want to be there on my Pirellis even if my sorry p'toot is all warm and cozy.

I see my owner's manual also specifies 350 watts @ 5,000 rpm. From the chart now I can take 26 DC amps, @ 5,000 rpm, times the voltage allowed by the regulator at full charge (13.5 DCv) giving almost exactly 350 watts. I'll have to try riding at 5000 rpm (not easy unless all freeway) and check for discharge. It is also time to clean and put copper paste on the regulator ground strap to the case and all the ground terminals on the battery end. Really a full 350 watt charge should support the bikes electrical system ( maybe 170 watts), a hot bulb ( add maybe 40 watts) and 99 watts of electric clothing ( Gerbings vest and gloves): totalling 310 watts. Even with a 10% error that's 340 watts. Sounds like the trick is keeping the revs at 5000 rpm! A thermocontroller or timing circuit would help , but the high revs are surely the key.

Those charts are posted on the forum somewhere. I don't recall any change to the alternator over the year ranges. Certainly the voltages and charging behavior are consistent with the lower output shown in the printed manual's charts. Of course, I also have some Guzzi material that says I have White Power suspension and a 5.8 gallon tank. EDIT: After a brisk 40 mile ride yesterday, my Hawker was holding 12.84v. I'm anxious to see what it looks like after sitting overnight. Edit/EDIT: 12.80 after sitting overnight. (I've never had an AGM battery drop off at all. It don't make me happy.

See the thread on Charging System and heated clothing I wish I could run my Gerbings without abandon, but no . . .

This comes up about this time every year. Again, I thought it needed a thread of its own. There have been concerns that the V11 charging system isn't up to lot of extra load. While promotional materials tout a 350 watt alternator, the shop manual charts indicate this output is at 10,000 rpm. I've done some quick and dirty voltage readings in the driveway with the Gerbings. Attached is the table of results. No question there are lots of variables here: state of charge ( looks like my Hawker doesn't hold its 12.84v as well as the original"Spark" unit), ambient temperature, engine temperature, 50000 miles on the alternator, and so on. Surely your results will vary. Yet, I think there are some conclusions to be drawn. First, I don't suppose my Sport has 99 watts to spare for my cozy warmth unless I'm cruising the freeway at 4500-5000 rpm. I've tried to cruise around the backroads at rpm over 4000 and it just isn't consistent. The battery runs down. Second, it would sure be attractive to have a replacement hi output alternator available. Seems like something about a tapered shaft has kept us out of the aftermarket. Your comments? ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2000 V11 Sport, 50000 miles, Hawker Odyssey PC545, PIAA H4* Gerbings jacket (77 watts), Gerbings gloves (22 watts) STATUS / DC V(hi beam) / RPM @ 12.84 v(hi beam*) cold / 12.73 Idle 1500 indicated* /12.32 / 1900 Idle(gloves) / 12.20 / 2100 Idle(jacket) / 12.07 3300 Idle(both) / 11.97 / 4000 3000 rpm / 13.40 3000(gloves) / 13.27 3000(jacket) / 12.50 3000(both) / 12.35 *notes: I always ride with the hi beam on. The bulb is a PIAA Extreme White anitvibration hi-zoot $50 job that says