docc

I believe Carl posted a link a while back which makes for interesting reading relative to oils and the air cooled motor: http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

There are guys wou've made them.

I believe all the USA models have this apparatus. It is a cannister ( or two) full of charcoal with vacuum lines from the two intake manifolds and a line to the underside of the gas tank to filter fuel vapor for a cleaner atmosphere. The line under the tank is fitted with a one valve which closes if not vertical. Early Sports wre mounted in the tool tray with 20 feet (!) of 3/8" fuel line for plumbing. Lter models, I believe, are mounted in front of the rear tire below the swingarm.

I do recall Pete saying " no friction modifiers as they glaze the bore." Actually, I shouldn't use the quotes as he said this with much more color and flare in his inimmitable style. Something about your 'donk' that I was afraid to repeat out of context. My understanding is that nothing over 10w-40 has friction modifiers.

I took 5 pounds off the Sport doing this. Since then I have gained 10 pounds probably from too much good single malt Scotch so I'm not pretending there are any real performance gains. Yet, my bike ran better right away having lost an annoying off idle pop pulling away from a stop. The experts disagree ,but I don't think my Sport liked it's intakes linked together with a vacuum line. Also, there is a 'tip-over valve' in the connection to the tank. They are known to foul and cause the tank to draw a vacuum making the paint very unhappy and , perhaps, impeding fuel flow. Losing the tip-over valve will allow fuel to flow out the line in some tip-over cases and, still, many have taken the risk for the percieved benefits. Welcome to the forum. It is the best anywhere!

No moly in the bevel box, Rocker? I ran Castrol 20w-50 for the first 40,ooo miles then switched to Mobil 1 15w-50. Redline Lightweight in the gearbox. I've always used the Guzzi final drive oil with the moly in it, but I'm ready to make a change.

Those look like bags from a Ducati ST 2. That far behind the axle I suppose he is not so concerned about wieghting the front tire.

I think it is actually 350 ml (0.350 l)oil and 20 ml ( 0.020) moly to total 370 ml ( 0.370 l). Richardson in Guzziololgy cautions that relying on the level plug may allow oil to cascade off the gears and contribute to underfilling. I checked this and found my box underfilled about 15% compared to careful volumetric measure.

I thought all the Euro bikes are delivered this way. No?

Ratch, No luck contacting the Guzzi rider in NC who built my screen, I suppose?

This is the finding I've noticed on batteries with seat pressure, kind of a 'misting' appearance. Something in FAQ is a good idea since the seat pressure is common. There are threads on modifying the battery basket. I moved my front mounts under the subframe with good clearance and still enough room above the shock.

So, the more the regulator can run the charge to ground the cooler it stays and longer it lasts? Taking that a step further, an auxiliary groud strap for the regilator case must be a real improvement.

We're in the same discussion now on two different threads. Still, it is battery season for most of us. Does the voltage monitor need to be full time or can you check voltage before and after a ride with accessories as an indication of too much load? I have tried plugging up the heated clothing and checking voltage at the battery while revving to different rpm. But all I was looking for was the rpm that voltage stayed above, say, 13vDC. Is there a better method to check how the system is tolerating the load? Finally, Gary, I see you don't like the yucky heated clothes. Just personal preference or some technical decision? I'm headed to a fellow rider's 80th birthday gathering Saturday in the upper 30s F and was counting on my Gerbings . . .

I spent last night thinking about having the alternator beefed up. Sure it's a 350 watt alternator. At 10,000 rpm. Most vests draw 35 or 40 watts and are probably fine if your rpm is above 3000. Above 4000 is better. My Gerbings jacket and gloves together draw 99 watts. Even with the Odyssey and numerous wiring mods, I don't think the system is happy with that kind of draw. I've been using a timer to open and close the circuit to control temperature and draw. Gary, would that be considered a 'pulse width controller?' I was wondering if that constant off and on cycling is hard on the regulator.

I have heard jumping from a largr source like a car is bad, but can it be done safely? Use the car's jack as a resistor?

Nah, I'm ashamed to say I don't know poot about these springs. Andy felt they'd fit and I thought they'd have to be more substantial than my originals. I'm 165# in street clothes and the spring rate isn't bad , it just ain't good.

I'm ready to put some more spunky springs in my Marzos. They came out of some Ohlins and I'm banking on there being something better than my 47,000 miles stockers. I'll go by the sag and set up the preload accordingly. Yeah, 'wingin' it,' I know. Is the Luftkammer measured with the springs in the juice?

Yes, the PC545. It is item #37L141S5 with Portable PowerSystems in Denver, CO. $69.95 plus shipping ( $9.46) to Tennessee.

Get the Hawker Odyssey. After 5 1/2 years with the original battery, this upgrade made a significant difference. And , yes, the V11 does seem to be rather voltage sensitive.

Heh, "thisoldtractor."

Carl, where , again, is the 2000-2001 V11 diagram? I lost mine trying to manipulate it with Photoshop or Arcsoft. Neither seem to 'see' the file in my database (?)

A copy of my drawing linking the mount to a plate behind the subframe-peg hanger bracket and pinned to the passenger peg mount is here in 24/7. Since then, I've thought the bracket would be more stable attached to the mounting plate with plates instead of bar stock.

Yes, I found the spacer is good cut in half. And the lower bracket mounted to the inside of the peg bracket rather than the outside. Like so many things Italian, instructions seem rather effette. Er, or, is that a French word? I continue to dream of a mounting rack to bring the panniers forward and down.

Well, I went back to post #1 and Nog did mention the Gerbings gloves. I, in fact, started to post some oil shite but deleted it all. The only oil I know about is the Islay stuff that opens nicely with a splash. The Lagavulin is absolutely tits but I can't afford it. So it's Laphroig at best . I'm sure it contributes to the Sport's reliability and, therefor, must bear mentioning in this thread. I did have all my oil bottles out tonight, reading and fretting over cylinder glazing. I think the new Mobil 1 is SM rated but I can't find the rebate for the whips and chains . . .

Always a valuable site worth revisiting. About every 4000- 6000 miles: "Jeff in Ohio tunes the guzzi just-so"