docc

Ratch, Looks like your stand has a couple mods. What are those 'tips' over the pork-chop gougers? Have you rebent the curve in the lever then repainted?

Scura pun?

And all this time I thought 'Bumf*ck' was in Egypt. Wouldn't the Scuras all also have the blistering driveline paint?

WS, If you're looking for some fork measurements (the front forks are by marzocchi), here are some numbers based on the early 40mm forks ( I don't know if the later forks were any different on the inside): Fork Woes thread

The suspension is amazing. Last week my wife decided to do a little 2-up riding with me . Cranked up the preload and was really impressed with the Sport's composure ( and her's, too). Haven't had the chance to install the brakes yet. I'm still looking for Nose2wind's Sport to make an honest bike out of my Guzzi. It wasn't a month since they were in the garage together and now this:

My last liter bike weighed 650 pounds (295 kg). Now that was a heavy MF! I have a lighter bike at 359 pounds dry (163 kg), but enjoy the Guzzi much more in real riding past trucks and in gusty weather. Just enough ballast not to be fighting the elements. Not a Tiny Dancer though.

I can say the 1091-29 spring on my Ohlins pegged my sag just about right for my 185 ponds in gear (29mm laden). Maybe a little too stiff for some. So, Josh, you're respringing the Spot1100? Seems like that early White Power stuff is mighty good, but we've never talked sag numbers . . .

Clean the starter, check connections.

This is an important and interesting topic. Unmaintained rear brakes, resting the foot on the brake, or building a heavy brake pedal all seem to be extraordinarily bad ideas. FWIW I bled my rear on the Sport every one to three years and only this last time took it off the bike and rotated the bleeder to the top. I was really pleasantly surprised at all the air that came out. Definately this is the right way to do it along with the more frequent service interval. Of course, the pedals do brake easily if the bike tips to the right. I rode mine home from its mishap with the front brakes only. NOTE: The moderator has left the building.

The key is not so much the fairing itself , but how it mounts. The RedFrames headlamp and instruments mount to the forks whereas the later bikes (different) headlamp and (different) instruments mount to the frame setting them much further forward than the earlier style.

I seem to remember, rather vaguely, that the 2 characters after ZGUKRAKR are the year of manufacture. '8Y' was 2000, '11' is 2001. This is from distant memory so let's see if we can get some one in the know to chime in. You're sure the 'x1' is not '11?'

Yeah, sorry. It just seems you two spend a lot of ink going at one another rather than the issue at times. I don't think you're breaking any rules ( I'm not sure there are any), yet it does get annoying when the tone remains somewhat condescending. Maybe I misread as tone is an awkward thing to convey in this medium. I've learned a lot from both of you and do appreciate the effort that goes into the input. It's sad to say in way, but my Sport would not be running it weren't for this forum.

You promise some pictures, yes?

The Nuts and Bolts of V11 LeMans.com has been an 'unmoderated' forum for a long time. I'm having trouble keeping track of which threads to avoid. Usually when two posers, err, I meant 'posters' , bat a thread back and forth like badminton, it's a fair indication the rest of us are 'uninvited.' It's high time you guys took your pi&&ing contest somewhere else. Both of you have had much to offer the rest of us poor ba$tard$ trying to keep these funky bikes running. Yet, is there not some sense of reasonable decorum that suggests when 'enough is enough?'

I think Pasotibbs is on the right track here. This sounds like one of the boots jumped track or possibly split. Have a look between each head and the throttle body to see if one has slid back. To check for cracks you can spray the intake boot with a solvent like contact cleaner or WD40 while idling and listen for a change in the idle. A couple wraps of electrical tape make a pretty good fix while waiting for the boots if you need them. Plugs should be changed at the 6000 mile service interval. Sounds like you're due for all that as well and will have a much happier and smoother V11!

Raz, I looked back through the thread but couldn't find which new tensioner you installed. Valtec or Stucchi? Also, again, how many miles on your Sport?

Raz, Congratulations! Ratchethack won't be far behind. Let's all hope he gets the same good result!

There are several good threads on this subject. Definately there have been a few '03 bikes with this trouble. Read up on the repair:Spring Reprise Also some good photos and discussion:Gearbox Advice Finally, for more info:Shift Return Spring Poll

Tom's right. It shouldn't turn. Isn't there a locking nut you can tighten against the tank?

David, This outstanding news! Really great you have you bike running well and that it was actually nothing major. And they did the tranny work as well? Do you notice any difference in it?

I just looked at the BMW GS at the dealer at 20,000USD plus the (really nice) bags. Even then it's a tall and awkward thing with rear drive woes and a stuffy dealer base. I really want to see one of these Stelvios . . .

Well, looks like the tensioners are pretty cheap and they're really not that bad to r&r, so more than a few of us are anxious to see what happens next . . . To a fault I'm always looking for the simplest of solutions . . .

Actually, I'm pretty sure yer fooked. It's the same as when you rebuild yer forks and they squeak like yer kid's swingset. Whatever's going on with your bike is the same affliction Nose2Bleed has. We tried swapping his coils (fixed the brackets in the process) and it still coughed and missed when hot. Could it be the pick-up itself is faulty? Seems a damn sight easier than pulling the timing chest and all the sprockets . . . I thought the 'wiggle test' worth a try. I learned this trying to sort a turbo Merkur (Sierra). The Brooklands publication "How to Prepare the Sierra for Motorsport" declares in the troubleshooting section for electrical systems: (and I paraphrase with reference to five years watching folks sort their V11s), "The most common electrical faults in [Moto Guzzis] are caused by wiring faults i.e. breakage of wires or connectors, electrical shorting, poor or intermittent connections, or contamination by water or mud, rather than by component failure." While there is no substitute for meticulously sorting your harness I must admit my Merkur (Sierra) was plagued by a component failure in its fuel management system. It ran so well when I found it , I slipped the clutch and blew a head gasket!

This has all the ring of the dreaded '02/early'03 broken pawl spring. Good news is : it's actually pretty easy to fix.