docc

Just a heads-up for any of you within striking distance of the TN-NC-GA mountains to check in on the South'n Spine Raid thread in "Meetings, Clubs & Events" and plan to be in Sweetwater , Tennessee , in about a month. I can't wait to hear all those V11s warming up in the parking lot in the mountain air!

Keeping the linkage tight and lubed , as Keith said, and running Redline makes a real difference. Preloading the shifter is good medicine per Tom. Often overlooked is the clutch and clutch action. Remember this was Guzzi's first hydraulic clutch. I find taking up the slack in the clutch lever as well as the shifter makes a HUGE difference in quick decisive shifts. Compared to the Japanese boxes there is such a big difference in the mass of the components. If riding were ice skating the Jap bikes would be figure skaters and the Guzzi plays hockey. The moral: don't expect to do a nice clean triple Lutz with a hockey player.

Very nice! So what kind of pressures are you seeing?

I dismantled an entire carburettor once after my Tourist Trophy would not start. If only I had noticed the choke lever was pushed the wrong way!

Thanks , lads! I've given my brother a link to come see your responses. From sliding dogs and screw-hammers to the Dutch soccer team, we are an eclectic bunch!

My brother has run across a reference to this tool in the HG Wells novel "Wheels of Chance." Apparently a Britsh thing, has anyone a clue?

Rats. Too many places to want to be all at one time. Just for convenience here's a link for everyone to Andy's shop in Nashville: corsemotorsports.com

Running in neutral requires the neutral switch on the gearbox to activate the middle relay. No neutral indicator light suggests a bad connection to the switch ( easy, just behind the starter , clean it, crimp carefully, pack with dielectric grease) or a bad neutral switch ( easy , again it may be removed and cleaned, worst case - replaced). Certainly the middle relay is suspect if the neutral indicator lights but the bike still won't run with the side stand down. Good news there is that the sidestand switch works. Remember the 'sidestand safety relay' is activated by the neutral switch.

I guess if Corse Motorsports Nashville is having an open house that weekend we'll have trouble talking you into a ride out of state . . . and I was looking forward to that warm feeling I get watching your LeMans smoothly disappear around those mountain curves.

All the pilots I know are glad to be getting the hours. If it works out for you, there will be a few of us gathering somewhere south of Nashville on that Friday and taking beatiful TN30 over the plateau.

bfg, I assume you lubed the drive gear and the shaft it slides on? What kind of lube? And, Mac, did you replace the insulation with something? What did you use?

Mac, you just cleaned it and reassembled? Some lube anywhere?

Actually any form of vertebrate would be welcome. There's even a fellow from Alabama who hasn't found a Coppa yet and will likely ride his Triumph. I made it quite clear, no jellylfish. Last time we did this , in 2004, it was really interesting to sit in the parking lot with the appropriate libations and compare the variations in the machines. It was quite surprising all the differences from 2000 to 2004. I think it would be great to compare the 1100 Sport. Yours is a '98?

These look really nicely done. I've been drawing something similar to move the Tekno bags forward and lower while looking stylish when the bags are off. What material did you use and could you explain your methods for cutting and bending?

Certainly if the gearbox case and the front engine mounts are broken then the bike has been tranked. But my gearbox case cracked at the left upper mount without a crash. The dealer thought it was from wheel standing but when I suggested his wrench was the only rider to do that with my Sport he recanted. Certainly repairing a mounting boss is unlikely to be effective. Replacing the case cover will require complete disassembly of the box ( and the new case ). There is a front top mounting plate on the 1100 Sport and Spot1100 which was left off the '99-'01 RedFrames. I've fitted one in the hope that it will reduce stresses on the rearward mounts. Wheelies or no. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...pe=post&id=1133 BTW:Thanks for link on the manuals. Er, but there are no 1999 or 2000 V11 listed . And no ricambi for the '01. As far as I know the '01 and '00 were the same but what gives?

Scott was thinking he might do a cookout for us on Saturday. I just don't think we can confirm any reliable numbers for him until we're standing right there in the parking lot. I was just over in that area of the mountains doing some white water canoeing last weekend. It was painful rolling over those roads in the back seat of a Suburban. TN 30 from Reliance to Ocoee is a magical piece of tarmac!

The front mount attaches through a sleeve to the front passenger peg hanger. I shortened my sleeve by about 1/2 and use shorter bolts to narrow the profile. The lower mount fastens to the muffler hanger. I moved mine to the inside ( more narrow. Finally, the rear mount bolts inside the the rear fender.

Would not a T fitting between the left petcock and the pump serve the same purpose as the manifold?

Brian, Good luck on this! It is tight routing the crossover line as it must go under the spine and shoulb be heat shielded. And the "T" fitting is worrisome. If it fails from the strain and vibration , it would be ugly. Are there some sort of marine or aircraft grade Ts available?

I've been getting some PMs on the plans and thought I would bring it back to the top. Any one in the North Carolina contingent planning on making it over the mountain?

So, you think any of you NC types can make it over the mountains for the South'n Spine Raid in Sweetwater Tn, 21-23?

". . . it was the machines, Sarah . . . "

Ok, thanks, I see it now . The "Oil temp" is taken from the right head and the "oil pressure" fom the left-front-top block. Again, I wonder , what is the ECU doing full time? Is it reading barometric pressure full time? It is my understanding that there is a baro sensor within the ECU.

I thought the oil temp sensor resides by the timing sensor on the right side of the block, top. If that's not the oil temp sensor what is it??

DBG, Looks like your tank came without the regulator, sensor and petcock. It would make it mighty easy to check if the petcock will fit in the regulator hole etc and post results on Tech Topics on the thread for getting more fuel from the tank. Beautiful tank, BTW. You're going to a CF fender?