docc

All the pilots I know are glad to be getting the hours. If it works out for you, there will be a few of us gathering somewhere south of Nashville on that Friday and taking beatiful TN30 over the plateau.

bfg, I assume you lubed the drive gear and the shaft it slides on? What kind of lube? And, Mac, did you replace the insulation with something? What did you use?

Mac, you just cleaned it and reassembled? Some lube anywhere?

Actually any form of vertebrate would be welcome. There's even a fellow from Alabama who hasn't found a Coppa yet and will likely ride his Triumph. I made it quite clear, no jellylfish. Last time we did this , in 2004, it was really interesting to sit in the parking lot with the appropriate libations and compare the variations in the machines. It was quite surprising all the differences from 2000 to 2004. I think it would be great to compare the 1100 Sport. Yours is a '98?

These look really nicely done. I've been drawing something similar to move the Tekno bags forward and lower while looking stylish when the bags are off. What material did you use and could you explain your methods for cutting and bending?

Certainly if the gearbox case and the front engine mounts are broken then the bike has been tranked. But my gearbox case cracked at the left upper mount without a crash. The dealer thought it was from wheel standing but when I suggested his wrench was the only rider to do that with my Sport he recanted. Certainly repairing a mounting boss is unlikely to be effective. Replacing the case cover will require complete disassembly of the box ( and the new case ). There is a front top mounting plate on the 1100 Sport and Spot1100 which was left off the '99-'01 RedFrames. I've fitted one in the hope that it will reduce stresses on the rearward mounts. Wheelies or no. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...pe=post&id=1133 BTW:Thanks for link on the manuals. Er, but there are no 1999 or 2000 V11 listed . And no ricambi for the '01. As far as I know the '01 and '00 were the same but what gives?

Scott was thinking he might do a cookout for us on Saturday. I just don't think we can confirm any reliable numbers for him until we're standing right there in the parking lot. I was just over in that area of the mountains doing some white water canoeing last weekend. It was painful rolling over those roads in the back seat of a Suburban. TN 30 from Reliance to Ocoee is a magical piece of tarmac!

The front mount attaches through a sleeve to the front passenger peg hanger. I shortened my sleeve by about 1/2 and use shorter bolts to narrow the profile. The lower mount fastens to the muffler hanger. I moved mine to the inside ( more narrow. Finally, the rear mount bolts inside the the rear fender.

Would not a T fitting between the left petcock and the pump serve the same purpose as the manifold?

Brian, Good luck on this! It is tight routing the crossover line as it must go under the spine and shoulb be heat shielded. And the "T" fitting is worrisome. If it fails from the strain and vibration , it would be ugly. Are there some sort of marine or aircraft grade Ts available?

I've been getting some PMs on the plans and thought I would bring it back to the top. Any one in the North Carolina contingent planning on making it over the mountain?

So, you think any of you NC types can make it over the mountains for the South'n Spine Raid in Sweetwater Tn, 21-23?

". . . it was the machines, Sarah . . . "

Ok, thanks, I see it now . The "Oil temp" is taken from the right head and the "oil pressure" fom the left-front-top block. Again, I wonder , what is the ECU doing full time? Is it reading barometric pressure full time? It is my understanding that there is a baro sensor within the ECU.

I thought the oil temp sensor resides by the timing sensor on the right side of the block, top. If that's not the oil temp sensor what is it??

DBG, Looks like your tank came without the regulator, sensor and petcock. It would make it mighty easy to check if the petcock will fit in the regulator hole etc and post results on Tech Topics on the thread for getting more fuel from the tank. Beautiful tank, BTW. You're going to a CF fender?

Other than clearance issues are all the access holes and mounting points the same size? Can the devices actually be interchanged?

Oh, dear. I'm showing about 10 volts and 0.76 amps. What is it thinking about while we're sleeping? The #3 fuse (regulator) shows 0.25 volts with no measurable milliamps. That fuse looked as if it had been quite hot. Probably when the regulator went toes up last year. EDIT: Speaking of the wiring diagram, Where is the head temperature sensor? There appeears to be one on the right cylinder head , inboard, with a blue connector.

I thought by 'popping the clutch' he meant bump starting, rolling the bike in gear with the clutch disengaged then releasing it to allow the rear wheel to turn the motor over. If so the culprit is likel;y the clutch switch sticking, its bullet connectors as mentioned or the middle relay. Soon some one will post a link to "know the rules" which emphasizes the relays and the battery.

It is a standard H4. Let us be reminded that the current goes through the switch and doubling the voltage doubles the current doubles the heat and doubles the smoke that is so hard to get back in the wires. The Sylvania Silver Star has gotten good revues here before and is around 77 watts. Wiring the lamps direct with 16 guage wire and separate relays is good medicine. Look HERE Aiming the lamp higher is certainly a good trick if you don't scare the squirrels.

That sounds like low battery voltage. If there was no click I would say clutch switch.

You can gain access to the throttle intake by loosening the rearward rubber intake and pulling it back off the throttle body. It will slide into the airbox out of the way.

Thanks , David. It was really rough a few miles north of here but intense all evening and all night. In '98 an F5 tornado devasted the woods up to 50 feet from my house and peeled the house of roofing and siding. Miraculously, the tornado backed up about 200 feet and side-stepped my house. I grew up in Floida and have seen 100-125 mph winds. Hey, many of us have felt that much wind behind the clocks of the V11. But this was my first time seeing 275 mph winds. No when the squall lines come through there is no comfort . . .

I've been toying with this for some time. Although the level sensor is on the left with the petcock. To tap the trapped fuel on the right side you would have to insert a petcock in place of the regulator and go to an inline regulator with a fuel crossover line. Sounds simple but the mounting and routing makes me dizzy.

If I remember correctly, all the grounds go back throught he harness to the terminal stack on the battery. Adding a junction block is a sure way to keep all the terminals tight. I've added separate grounds for the horns and lights as well as a separate grond strap from the motor to frame. Also, securing the bulb mounts inside the instruments is good medicine. While the tank's off , clean, tighten, grease and secure all the connectors you find. The most forward connectors (clutch switch, regulator and alternator) benefit from application of a good heat-shrink tubing. Check this on the instruments: link And ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS Finally, Relay Thread