docc

This is good news! I know Alain and Andy will have you back on the road soon. Looks like a chance they'll be an injected Sport along as well for those intense parking lot comparison sessions.

Yeah, that yellow sealant is intended to deter unauthorized personnel ( owners) from mucking with the tune. I found it very useful for finding all the points of adjustment to bring into balance. Check with the parts department at Moto International in Seattle, Washington. The manager is knowledgable and active on the forum. Who knows, he may even lend you his cracked up Eldorado if your parts aren't in.

With the sidestand up power flows to the 'run switch' directly. When the stand is down, power only makes it to the run switch through the middle relay ( called the 'sidestand relay') which is activated by the neutral switch. Not only are the neutral switches ( just behind the starter) prone to sticking ( Redline gearlube seems to help), but the connection is dubious. Pull off its little rubber boot, give it a clean and crimp and see if life gets better. Some of the things they do naked in North Carolina shouldn't be attempted in the old country lest ye end up in North Carolina before the dust settles . . .

That's pretty low rpm to expect the V11 to bebuttery smooth, yet a solid throttle body balance with TPS setting including a world spec valve adjustment may work magic. Thanks to Jeff in Ohio's tune up procedure it's all laid out for you. Give it a try!

The new intake boots should cure your sudden onset of ills. A good tune up is required to set the idle properly. Just moving the stop screws won't do it. And the white knob balances ( or unbalances) the throttle bodies. It definately will benefit from a jam nut when you get it set where it belongs. For a good tune up check out Jeff in Ohio's procedure on Guzzitech. You can skip the part about retorquing the heads.

Planning on leaving the Cracker Barrel on I65, Exit 46, about 0830 and head due east on backroads through Bell Buckle and Mcminnville to TN 30 where the fun begins. We'll stay on 30 probably into Athens or just beyond before turning north to Sweetwater. The Best Western is just west of I75 at the Sweetwater exit. I don't know if Josh has his heads back from Mike Rich yet.

How hard is it to access this part and change it?

OK, I registered. There's a Cracker Barrel next door for those trying to keep their waist size up to the American standard. In fact, those leaving middle Tennessee should plan on meeting at the Cracker Barrel ( There's a theme here) on I65, exit 46, on Friday morning at 7 a.m. central time. That's GMT minus five for those of you flying in from Belgium or de Nederlaands. We're a casual bunch, but wear full protective gear and expect the road to rise, fall and otherwise convolute as we make our way in and out of the Appalachian Mountains.

Yes, we are drawing near to the South'n Spine Raid of 2007. I'll call the Best Western in Sweetwater TN tommorrow for a reservation. Remember this is a dry county. There is beer and such at the local grocery but if you desire grappa, good scotch or other serious libations, be advised : BYO. And after year one, no drunken redneck foxes are guaranteed by the (non)rallye staff. What you find on the waterfalls is your own business. There is a good chance of seeing everything from a carbed sport to a Norr- Geyy. Even a V10.

Indeed the TPS is rotated to adjust it. Ever so slightly. And tightening it back down tends to change it. So, it takes a few tries to get it right on. The spec is 150 mV +/- 15. I find my Sport runs the best at 165 mV. True the procedures vary considerably and most are compilations of one another. With 47,000 miles on the Sport I've done this several ways totalling about eight or nine times. Best results from Jeff in Ohio's method. I've tried numerous times to turn my air bypass in where they 'belong.' I always end up back at a full turn to get the most stable idle especiallyin the hot, hot deep south summers.

My tach is 300 rpm optomistic so at an indicated 1000 it's idling at 700 rpm. Not happy! Setting the idle to an indicated 1300 settles lots of this stumbling and cough. My early Sport also smoothed out at idle and just off idle with the carbon cannisters removed. The experts disagree whether this could make any difference, but this was my experience. By 45,000 miles I would think a thorough tune with a careful TPS adjustment is in order. Check out Jeff in Ohio's tune up procedure. Your Guzzi will thank you!

I still wonder if I should add a ground strap to the regulator case. [ EDIT/ March 27, 2019: YES! Stop wondering and ground your regulator case! Ground everything!! ]

I'm sure pleased to see this discussion opening up. And not just the technical aspects ( mounting etc) but the aesthetic, the philosophy. And scariest of all, the potential effects on riding ability. I ride with a group of spirited and experienced sport-tourers every autumn for a three day intense weekend. ( rather, they let me come along.) This year the invitation is to lead a segment of the ride. So, I've been shopping GPS units and mounts ( the Garmin Zumo looks the stuff). Yet, every pilot knows "keep your eyes outside the cabin." It concerns me to be taxing my skill set on this ride, lead the group on top of that and be looking between the triple clamps. I've watched the ride leader develop his routing skill with the GPS and must say it's amazing to follow this guy around hundreds of miles of unknown, unmarked backroads in such seamless fashion. Even with half the group running GPS there have been times when we would huddle up beside the road and study the atlases to get us back on track. Just as a cell phone is not a tool box or first aid kit, the GPS is no substitute for a sense of place and direction. I think DrG's addition is the perfect tool for his needs. These things will take you to an address in the city like a New York cabbie that speaks little english.

So, what's in the box when you open it up? Too bad about the way he treated the connector. Using some heat shrink and soldering those wires would be a good approach. The accessory outlet looks like it's for an electric vest or such. I think those are referred to as 'Powerlet' connectors.Compare it to what you see in the Aerostich Riderwearhouse catalog or Whitehorse Press. And make sure it's fused. Routing the original horn wire (from the swwitcg) to the horn relay will activate the relay. A fused hot from the battery to the relay makes power for the horn. 14 guage is good though some have gone bigger. Most Fiamm set-ups have two horns. Check out some solutions by clicking this thread on"Horns" . Best of luck! Perhaps you could ride the thing to the Tennessee Mountains for the South'n Spine Raid in June.

Have a look at this Super Hawk thread by RonV11 in Washington, USA.

Hell, now I'm afraid to change my filter at all.

I've a friend with a magnificent V7 Sport that he'd like ( I think) $8500 for. It needs transmission seals but is otherwise spectacular. I remember when my V11 Sport was worth $8500. I understand the early tanks will bolt up to the later Tonti frames. I've heard of people converting Jackals. Others on the board know more about this so I hope they'll chime in and maybe show us a picture . . .

Hmmm, I've never heard of them leaking there , only at the throotle body, usually the right. There are special o-rings for use with fuel. Begins with a 'v.' What is that stuff?

Has the specification for the lube in the bevel drive changed or still the moly cocktail?

Remarkable , the cool people on this forum!

Heh, lots of th Guzzi stuff reminds me of my old 1950s Lionel Trains - all switches and solenoids - no spooky black boxes with thin solder lines holding sway against a 120 kph wind.

OMMIGOSH! JOE! Just shows to go ya that none of us fell very far from the tree. I don't know how you can really replace that trick Sport of yours. The later ( '04/'05) Sports were probably more refined, fitted and mannnered than the early RedFrames. They have a more relaxed ride and gentler riding position. That and the Ohlins option certainly give you a more forgiving platform than the early Sports. Fly to Atlanta, buy the Coppa and stay at my house in Tennesse on your way home. I'll write you a note saying you'll be late. Epizootics or something . . .

Critically setting the valve clearances is fundamental to the balance. It is Step One in the procedure. And although the maintenance interval is 6000 miles, I can feel a difference doing the Sport in 4000. Plus, I just like doing it.

I really like my CRG barends, but looking very deeply into them doesn't reveal if that's a Crown Victoria or an F15 closing on you way back there. I'd gladly surrender a little field of view if they weren't quite so convex. Also, use a little blue Loktite on the retaining screw. Those replacement lenses are pricey.