docc

So, the more the regulator can run the charge to ground the cooler it stays and longer it lasts? Taking that a step further, an auxiliary groud strap for the regilator case must be a real improvement.

We're in the same discussion now on two different threads. Still, it is battery season for most of us. Does the voltage monitor need to be full time or can you check voltage before and after a ride with accessories as an indication of too much load? I have tried plugging up the heated clothing and checking voltage at the battery while revving to different rpm. But all I was looking for was the rpm that voltage stayed above, say, 13vDC. Is there a better method to check how the system is tolerating the load? Finally, Gary, I see you don't like the yucky heated clothes. Just personal preference or some technical decision? I'm headed to a fellow rider's 80th birthday gathering Saturday in the upper 30s F and was counting on my Gerbings . . .

I spent last night thinking about having the alternator beefed up. Sure it's a 350 watt alternator. At 10,000 rpm. Most vests draw 35 or 40 watts and are probably fine if your rpm is above 3000. Above 4000 is better. My Gerbings jacket and gloves together draw 99 watts. Even with the Odyssey and numerous wiring mods, I don't think the system is happy with that kind of draw. I've been using a timer to open and close the circuit to control temperature and draw. Gary, would that be considered a 'pulse width controller?' I was wondering if that constant off and on cycling is hard on the regulator.

I have heard jumping from a largr source like a car is bad, but can it be done safely? Use the car's jack as a resistor?

Nah, I'm ashamed to say I don't know poot about these springs. Andy felt they'd fit and I thought they'd have to be more substantial than my originals. I'm 165# in street clothes and the spring rate isn't bad , it just ain't good.

I'm ready to put some more spunky springs in my Marzos. They came out of some Ohlins and I'm banking on there being something better than my 47,000 miles stockers. I'll go by the sag and set up the preload accordingly. Yeah, 'wingin' it,' I know. Is the Luftkammer measured with the springs in the juice?

Yes, the PC545. It is item #37L141S5 with Portable PowerSystems in Denver, CO. $69.95 plus shipping ( $9.46) to Tennessee.

Get the Hawker Odyssey. After 5 1/2 years with the original battery, this upgrade made a significant difference. And , yes, the V11 does seem to be rather voltage sensitive.

Heh, "thisoldtractor."

Carl, where , again, is the 2000-2001 V11 diagram? I lost mine trying to manipulate it with Photoshop or Arcsoft. Neither seem to 'see' the file in my database (?)

A copy of my drawing linking the mount to a plate behind the subframe-peg hanger bracket and pinned to the passenger peg mount is here in 24/7. Since then, I've thought the bracket would be more stable attached to the mounting plate with plates instead of bar stock.

Yes, I found the spacer is good cut in half. And the lower bracket mounted to the inside of the peg bracket rather than the outside. Like so many things Italian, instructions seem rather effette. Er, or, is that a French word? I continue to dream of a mounting rack to bring the panniers forward and down.

Well, I went back to post #1 and Nog did mention the Gerbings gloves. I, in fact, started to post some oil shite but deleted it all. The only oil I know about is the Islay stuff that opens nicely with a splash. The Lagavulin is absolutely tits but I can't afford it. So it's Laphroig at best . I'm sure it contributes to the Sport's reliability and, therefor, must bear mentioning in this thread. I did have all my oil bottles out tonight, reading and fretting over cylinder glazing. I think the new Mobil 1 is SM rated but I can't find the rebate for the whips and chains . . .

Always a valuable site worth revisiting. About every 4000- 6000 miles: "Jeff in Ohio tunes the guzzi just-so"

Gary, No need to replace the housing? Just the cable?

Seems like your 2001 would have the angle drives. The one at the gear case sometimes begins to separate and will cause fluctuation. It can be removed and pressed back together. Otherwise the Veglias often do that. Some only at low speeds , some at high. I was hoping someone would find out where to put a lttle lube in the instrument to help.

I think Gebings may have been the end of my 5 year old stock battery. While the gloves are dreamy, running gloves and a full jacket is delightful Yet ( I learned the hard way) keeping the revs above 4000 is darned important when your alternator is rated at 10,000 rpm. Even then 99 watts is a lot to draw on the system. Still, the old battery did not fail but just got sluggish enough to warrant replacement with the Hawker Odyssey ( what a huge difference!). I've not tried running gloves and jacket together since.

Funny, all this time and it's the first I've heard of the front brake reservoir bracket cracking. Mine let go years ago and I got one from a fellow in N. Carolina who was also making windscreens for the old Stucchi fairing. I've meant to make one up for the clutch side but now I'm afraid it will crowd the intended location for the GPS . . .

Yes, yes, I'm mechanically inclined. I can screw up anything.

Sounds like torquing the UFI to a metal to metal contact ( especially if the surfaces were dry) might account for why some factory installed filters have been reported to be so impossible to remove. Getting that one full turn on the UFI is a piece of cake. It's getting that next 0.07 that could get tricky.

I complained of this when the Sport was new asking, "Isn't there an o-ring that can be replaced?" Guzzzi's warranty fix was to replace the entire rack: throttle bodies, linkage , injectors and TPS. The frame had to crabbed slightly as the rack won't slide out under the spine. The new one drips less. But still will drip. To the dealer's credit (in addition to the big warranty effort) he told me not to turn the key on and off cycling the fuel pump or make brief starts like I would do to let someone listen to the Mistral's burble. I thought it was BS ( I just wanted the new o-ring) but this turns out to be quite good advice. Briefly pressurizing the system appears to aggravate the weeping.

A few years ago I experimented with higher pressures and harder tires to get more miles out of the rear. I learned that traction can be compromised and swingarms can get bent. Now I keep 33 in the front Diablo and prefer the Corse, and 37-39.5 in the rear ( the higher for greater load, hotter temperatures and higher sustained speeds), preferring the Strada. Tires and oil get changed at about the same interval.

Do you guys think the same trade-off is built in to the Ohlins rear shock? ( better performance/shorter rebuild interval)

Oh, gawd. Wait'll Kathy finds out. You can stay at my house. Bring your own Grappa the single malt's on me.

Certainly one of the best improvements one can make to any motorbike. And many cars for that matter. A close second is wiring relays to the headlamps.