docc

"I want to apologize for this in advance" . . . (not exactly kumbaya) Ughughughhooo . . . .

I am so appreciative of all of the players that have taken me in. I am just a hobbiest coming to music-making late in life. I don't know that the Bassman is a "powerful" amp at 45 watts. One of the rooms I play has me through a 300 watt stage amp. I can barely crack its volume with the gain way down. And there is another Ampeg "valve" amp that also can easily overpower the room. So, maybe the Bassman amp is just right, after all, and there is really nothing wrong with it . . .

Sounds a lot like tuning a V11. My drummer-bud did tell me, early on, that "The worst thing about bands is they're made up of musicians" . . .

Example of simple oil question: "Oil?" Example of simple answer: "Yep."

I sourced this Shindy in 2009, fifteen years ago, from Moto International, Seattle. Unfortunately, the invoice only shows the vendor's stock number, no manufacturer's part number $140US In 2009 dollars . . .

I'm happy with mySport's Shindy ("SHIN-juh"), but not sure if they are still available for the V11 (?)

IIRC, this Fender Bassman is a second reissue. For sure, from the beginning, they were found to be good guitar amps in spite of the "Bassman" name. 99% of my playing is "living room volume" where it is great. It makes sense it would distort at higher volumes. And nobody wants a crunchy bass.

Seems HyperPro has been a popular option for our V11:

Yes, Fender American Professional J-bass. Interesting solution, changing the pre-amp tubes. I had just assumed the amp's previous owner had blown up the speakers. Any advice what pre-amp tubes to source for my application?

The fan extended the life of the overheated Onkyo for about a month. Long enough to source a "period" replacement. It was pleasing that "blowing out the dust"of the replacement unit yielded no cloud! Keeping the fan on the replacement . . . On to considering replacing the four Italian-made Jensen 10" speakers in my "reissue" tube Fender Bassman . . . They are fine at "studio" volume, but break up driven at stage levels. What about Celestion replacements for my blues-oriented bass playing? Or just source fresh Jensens?

One of our moderator's grey-area rules of engagement . . . An Original Poster (OP) cannot drift his own topic off-topic. After all, it's his topic. Exceptions occur when the topic is in "Technical Topics " or "How To . . ." in order to maintain our technical archive and improve search outcomes. Operative term: "grey-area ".

That's what Redline ShockProof looks like, an "emulsion." Same with the Lightweight/blue.

Haha, true on all counts. Yet, all of the discussion remains about the OP's GuzziQ within his own thread.

R.I.P. Kris Kristofferson

Having followed myriad tire (and oil) threads on the interwebs, and on tarmacs, I would venture some consensus: 1) Tires (and oil) are good! 2) Fresh tires (and oil) are ALWAYS better than worn out tires (and oil). 3) Change tires (and oil). Ride & repeat.

I would not let that delay your start-up as all you can change with guzzidiag is the CO Fuel Trim. You can definitely do that later. You are doing all of the important stuff. On the "tune-up", most important is new sparkplugs, valve adjustment, and TPS baseline. Once started, a throttle body balance is in order. Having seen CO Fuel Trim values in the negative double digits, it will be curious where you find it before setting to zero . . .

All of the early RedFrame Sports, and the Rosso Mandello have a "channel" on the leading edge of the riser that mounts below the triple clamp, visible in this view. These also have the "locator" tab with the three holes: Is this channel present on your pieces, @Steve Swan ? What is the rise from the top of the pinch clamp to the bottom of the hole for the bar? (I get 45mm on the RedFrame Sport.)

That's what I think about the blue!

Lovely! Someone should scoop it up!

I thought I recognized those , but this will be of no help . . . Let's not give up, though. Those risers look worth identifying . . .

Thanks for the screenshot for those of us that cannot see "fb", @fastaussie. A Nero Corsa for $4000US OBO? Where is it located?

Only if you love it. If you love the Motorex, refill it with that. After a couple changes, the Redline will be gone. Just realize your first refill might not be "volumetric" as so much of that HeavyWeight remains inside after draining. Maybe underfill, run it in, and use the sight glass for the final fill. FWIW, I abandoned the HeavyWeight and use RLSP LightWeight (blue) in the gearbox and reardrive. No matter what oil, though, change on time and don't overfill . . .

"[Mod'rator] Don't Allow No Music Playin' 'round'ere !" "We don' care what [Mod'rator] don' allow! Gonna play this music anyhow !"

Looks like RedlIne ShockProof HeavyWeight. Nothing wrong with re-filling with your choice of gearoil. Realize that the RLSP Heavy clings internally like nothing else and it becomes too easy to overfill after it drains (or doesn't, entirely!) . . .

Nothing wrong with posting those here. Thanks for the good images. Do those have any numbers cast into them?