docc

Back from the doc and the word is . . . ?

Hmmm, internet medical advice . . . probably as shaky as gettng your tuning specs off a Dutch forum. ( my Sport wouldn't be running without this forum). It would be helpful for me to know the location of your fracture, whether diagnosed by plain film or CT scan and if displaced or multiple. PM me on that stuff, eh? Nonetheless, fractures tend to heal nicely in 5- 10 weeks. Yet, if there has been enough force to fracure , there has certainly been enough force to sprain and strain. Sprains are injuries to the ligaments , especially those forming joints holding bone to bone. The greatest area of concern for you would be injury to the sacroiliac joints and the junction of the base of the spine with the pelvis. The good news is there is a lot that can be done to rehabilitate injured ligaments. The bad news is that it is a long haul. 40-50% of ligament (joint) healing occurs within 6 months. The remainder takes from 1 - 3 years. What you do to restore function over these months to years will make a world of difference.

Today I pulled my pan as all good Guzzisti should do to feel right with the universe. I had noticed my oil light flickering on under hard acceleration thinking, perhaps, the oil level was low. I was floinked to find the filter was loose after 6000 miles. Instead of 'hand tightening ' this time , I used the filter wrench to secure the errant squinch. Very little ( but a little) flotsam, jetsom and other crap showed up around the "filtro a retina' or wire mesh filter to justify my deep endeavor. The same pan gasket appears viable after almost 40,000 miles. Now, I'm hoping I don't need the screwdriver next time . . .

I feel like a cat burgler, sneaking in here on my son's internet access. But, hey,I kind of like it . . . like explianing to Trooper Royce that the bike just does 80 mph and any happy bloke 'll just hang on for the ride. I don't know how long this PC will last but I sure miss this community of riders! I guess it's telling that I can keep an old Goose on the road ( almost 40,000 miles on the y2k Sport) but the PC's elude me.

Eastwood ( www.eastwoodcompany.com )makes a silver that is very close( ALUMA-BLAST' part #1254Z) but requires clearcoating(DiamondClear' part# 10197Z) for durability. It's not quite as 'amber' as stock but much closer than shiny aluminum.

What kind of x-over and pipes are you fitting?

Who's making 160/70 tires? All I have found are 160/60.

I'm tellin' ya: one day some old bugger is going to limp in to Pete's with a V11 spiney all full of bad relays and vapor lock and beg him to take it for a few quid ( er, what's a 'quid') and brief company with his rubber chicken, Colin. Then, we'll have Pete for good!

The Pit Bull stands do look well made. But, I have a friend whose 1100 Sport slid down while he was taking it down and fell away from him against the garage door spring. Not a pretty thing. Anyone know where there's a black fairing for a 1997 1100 Sport?

Help! I've worked the image to try and make it 'browser friendly.' I'd like to delete the unused background but can't acheive that with the ArcSoft software. Can anyone help me? Thanks, docc

Todd, where's the baro pressure sensor? I don't recall one of these in the system?

And all this time I never realized how much Woodstock changed motorcycling.

TX, you're gonna need N50-15s on 12" rims!

And? So? How does the bike run now?

Adjusting the valves, changing the fluids, balancing the throttle bodies are all reeally easy. Checking the CO and the TPS are a little more involved but will pay big dividends in how the bike runs. Yet, taking the bike 'in' is no guarantee that the shop will realy take the time to sort all those things. My shop ( at the time of purchase) had the attitude, "it starts, it runs, don't mess with it." Also consider poring over the fasteners routinely to snug everything back up.

> Jason, I sat the builders level on a stack of CD cases and pressed it against the rear tire shooting the lazer line along the front tire. I then held a steel rule to the edge of the front tire and read off the lazer in mm. At first I was marking the floor and using squares to get the measurement but this way was far more accurate. With the swingarm centered the front was off 3.5mm. Not bad , as Computrack told me they allow for 3mm. But adjusting the swingarm put it to 1 mm.

On the fly?

The lazer came from "Radio Shack" on sale for $20US.

Well, no more head shake. It appears there were a couple contributors. First my tires had worn to the swingarm setting and when it was moved the tires had to wear in to the new alignment. New tires solved that. But this whole " put it back where you found it" procedure is befuddling. Why isn't there a definitive procedure for setting the swingarm? I still say it may be that each bike is set up from the factory to track within a certain tolerance. Using the lazer to align the front with the back I moved the swingarm over until the alignment was within 1 mm ( 0.039") then relieved the bearings by about 0.001" per side ( about 1/8 turn). Also, at a recent visit to the MG shop I found that the last two V11s dismantled for gearbox recall had the swingarm pins set asymmetrically.

I don't recall a barometric pressure sensor in this system . Or any adjustment of the fuel injectors themselves.

I found the Slick50 ( yes, it's still available) to be a great product with how it binds PTFE to friction surfaces. I haven't used it on the Guzzi but have seen good results with it in autos since first using it 25 years ago. The current thinking in lubricants, if I may summarize: In the bevel box: gear oil and moly, ( Guzzi has a mixed product " final drive oil"), or gearoil with no moly or synthetic ( or no). In the gearbox: Redline Shockproof heavyweight ( or lightweight), or synthetic ( or no). No moly. In the motor: fermented rhinoscerus semen ( how you get the semen out of the rhino is your business). No, really, I know it's true. I read it on the internet.

Definately the tires are the #1 cause for weave. It also may benefit you to check the swingarm alignment to be sure the front and rear are tracking together.

Hrgravelpha talked with two spring manufacturers in the US and neither would make the springs. Largely for liability reasons as I recall. And , as you say, there seems to be something amiss with the spring's mounting boss and perhaps other aspects of the alignment on the shift plate.

This is true, they have a beautiful finish much like the Feraccis. In fact they look almost identical. The Mistrals are much coarser. Although the M4 and the Feracci appear to be 'wrapped', the Mistral is solid cf about 4mm thick. T hese bikes all sound great with some pipes!