docc

Hey! I resemble that remark!

All good answers, Al. Certainly the 14 or 16 guage wire is good. And i found that the 5amp fuse wouldn't hold the long blasts needed to motivate large furry animals. the 7.5 amp has held for months now. EDIT: The fuse became 10 amp somewhere in the game. Rob, read through this thread: serious horns

Aw, that's awsome! I just moved all my spare fuses to the fuse block. How neat is that?! Thanks, Gary!

Strange . . . my 2000 Sport has those same 4 wires. Whazup wit dat?

I also added these ( nefarious) bullet connectors which do NOT show on the factory diagram:

Carl, i sent you a message about the link , above. Hopefully, we can get it up again as your diagrams are indispensible! I had to add this connection which is on the factory diagram but omitted from your draft of 11 October 2003:

I was considering this roadside fuse box modification.

Are the parts references available as well?

Freud, you will need to lengthen the fuel line from the pump to filter 1/2" - 1" ( 12- 24mm) as the filter is a bit shorter and the stock line length is bit marginal sometimes crimping it on the forwrd tank mounts.

Thanks to Brian for the heads-up on checking the oil lines! Adding a couple 'zip ties' works to buffer the contact points.

An MV Agusta and a Scura? I'm having trouble feeling sorry for you.

There , that ought to do it! I would think the thing to use on the rubber would be RTV Silicone.

True. Both the gearbox and the bevel box benefit from accurate measures of fluid. Filling the bevelbox to the overflow plug will underfill the box by about 20% since the fluid cascades of the gears and out the hole.

The fuel filter has a pretty high specification for flow, filtration and surface area. The best one we've found is a lazer welded stainless steel unit spec'd for the Isuzu Trooper 9 and it is a little smaller than the Weber unit). Wrap it in some insulation if the heat is a concern. Your filter is under the frame or on top?

Yes, please . . .

Since the JB Weld is an insulator ( and the best epoxy I know of) couldn't the crimp be epoxied before it fails?

i've managed to dismantle and epoxy the mounting studs on the tach and speedo. Not a fun project. I'll post more on this in the 'grounding ' thread and try to create some links between some of these electrical threads. It is notable that the JB Weld shows NO conductivity down to 0.1 Ohm. Fortunately my mounting stud still has connection to the case but be sure not to insulate the stud with the epoxy. Thanks again to Carl for all the insight on where to look for this problem and also the magnificent wiring diagrams he has made available to all of us.

Several threads have discussed the dubious grounding of the instruments and the fragile light housings for instrument illumination. I'll come back to edit this post with links to the other threads. For now I'd like to ask where the light housings fail. At the rivet(point A) or the crimp ( point B ) ?

Looks like the bike must have gotten really wet in shipping. Maybe they straped it down on the foredeck? At some point you might want to check the rear drive splines, shaft splines, u-joints and the swingarm bearings for grease. The bearing seals can be opened and frsh grease put in. better this than waiting for something to seize.

Oh, Brian always sounds like that. It's the menopause thing. If it makes you feel better here are the periods he's no longer using: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . And seriously, thanks for keeping us up on what you're doing. Some people seem to like PCs, some no. Some people get the perfect map and some , no. While the interfaces with the ECU continue to evolve i think it benefits us all to stay aware and open minded.

eew, I'm feeling a bit fragile . . .

Al, nice photo . . . hey! those are my relays!

Lubricity, retention of viscosity and the multitudes of intensely technical features aside, synthetics do have one characteristic I would find beneficial in a big twin. Sythetics have almost zero evaporative loss. That is to say they do not vaporize under heat and pressure like petro oils. The V11 Sport tends to gather a good bit of oil in the airbox from the crankcase venting under high rpm/spirited riding. I'm betting a synthetic would eliminate this misting. In the stock air box the temperature sensor is just by the vent and , after a bit, the whole area is pretty oily. Less of this mess would be better .

When you say " lift" the tank, do you mean 'take it off' or shim it up a bit?

Sure thing. It looks like maybe shipping across the ocean caused the exhaust to gather water. Nothing a good blowing out on NZ roads won't fix! Having only read about the roads there I imagine you have the perfect bike to rejoin your riding life. And with no warranty ( what no dealer in NZ??) , I expect we'll be hearing more from you here. Good riding and look well ahead! docc