docc

After long hours with the lazer I decided not to take the bike to Computrack. After adjusting the swingarm, I got the alignment to within 1mm. Then I spent three more days putzing around with the rear subframe trying to be sure it is straight. With the bike torn down this far it's tempting to do some mods while it's all easy to get to. Tomorrow I'll call RaceTech and FBF. Looking back at the picture , the frame does look bent! Now I won't be able to sleep!

Also , you might want to check with Andy at MG/Ducati-Nashville ( 615/353-1919). He imported some nice upgraded screens from Germany. I'm thinking MI in Seattle also got some of those screens. >

The blue spring clip appears to attach to the cylinder temperature sensor. Look further back near the throttle bodies for the green spring clip connectors.

Having recently done an extended parking lot comparison of a 2002 and 2003 Lemans, there are a number of visible changes. Who knows how many we missed being so distracted by the single malt and the red-neck girl being arrested . . . The front exhaust crossover was new for '03. Also there may be a different voltage regulator. The rear caliper mount is through drilled and the locator pin is safety pinned on the inside of the caliper mount. The tank, fuel pump, filter , low fuel sensor and petcock are all different. Seems like the switchgear changed at some point. For sure the instruments and speedo cable changed. This may be a bit fuzzy from the presence of the '04 Ballabio which also had some changes . Still, a quick look at these parts will confirm for you which are different from your '03.

I knew we could count on you , Al!

i'm afraid there can be more to sort out in the first three years than later on. Many of the problems with the early bikes ( 2000 - 2002) have been addressed. It is generally thought that the '03 - '04 bikes are more reliable. They still invite you to learn and work on them yourself. They are delicious motorcycles. Have you ridden one yet?

F4s, Lots of Guzzi Sport/Lemans riders in the northwest US. I think you'll see some good feedback here. Scura riders are a pretty dedicated lot perhaps the most 'Sport' oriented among us. Spend a little time searching the forum for 'Scura' under Technical Topics. Like all bikes the Scura does have some 'issues' but will reward you you with a magnificent ride!

One Fiamm or other automotive style trumpet horn will be louder than the stock squeekers. And they do only draw about 3 amps. Really it should work a long, long time drawing through the switch. There are those who have automotive horns just plugged up to the stock harness. They certainly are not as loud ( as a relay set-up with dedicated, fused hot ) and the longevity of the switch is a concern.

You can pop the right side linkage off by prying down on it with a flat blade screwdiver. It has a sucky feel to it and I feel bad every time I do it. But it hasn't broken yet ( 32,000 miles). There are some diagrams in Guzziology and some in the shop manual. The goopy yellow EPA paint was indispensible in finding all the little screws and adjusters that I feel compeeled to fettle.

Rob, I'm anxious to hear what you think of the increased noise from the airbox mod. Northend loves his. What kind of pipes are you using?

Touch a magnet to them. If they are not ferrous they will eventually break!

It's a good thing you stayed in the same gear the whole time we couldn't catch you in the mountains.

Apparently each Fiamm horn draws about 3 amps. Since I used the cast off early Siemans relays I dedicated one to each horn. Sort of a redundant system in case one failed. I also used 14 guage wire for the fused hot which is probably also overkill. Since the current for the horns and lights run through the light switch, just upgrading relays won't protect the switch. And while a cockpit fire would be spectacular ( and lead to months of heavy drinking ) it is more likely that one day the switch will just quit, the headlamp will go out and the horns won't blow.

The additive for the bevelbox is moly. Guzzi makes a nice product with the moly already mixed in ( shake well!) There are a number of other specifications in the manual for the grease. The Belray Waterproof I use may be a little too 'loose' at temperature and tend to sling more, especially off the rear splines to the hub. Maybe a 'stiffer' grease would be better?

W-Richard, I run the rebound and compression at 70-75%. I've also preloaded my springs considerably. At 192 pounds you'll find some 100 kg/cm springs will likey get you closer to where you want to be for sport riding. The stockers may as light as 65 or 70.

My Sport used to blow off an intake boot when the TPS and throttle body synch were off.

Also check with the throttle rolled wide open that the nut on the bottom of the bell crank does not hit the cable housing preventing the throttle from opening fully.

certainly some of our bikes are set up leaner ( therefor hotter) than others. Be sure your TPS is in range and the throttle body balance is on. Sometimes the fuel pump ( if it's mounted under the frame like mine) is against the oil line. Simply loosen the bracket and slide it u pand away from the line fitting.

How about a view from the rider's seat?

Seems like 10 mm would be a little long. I wouldn't want the things protruding into the air flow. I shortened mine a bit.

true, even the earlier bevel drive cables benefit from some careful grooming of the route. of course this is best done with the tank and airbox off. (That would be a good time to grease all the connectors).

I agree with Gary. Although I have a 16 guage hot to two separate relays for the hi/lo, I plan to add a dedicated ground to the frame ( maybe taking in the tach as well). Also a frame to engine earth strap ( there is none in the stock set-up).

The nylon bevel drives eat up too. Although maybe not as quck as the housing bend eats cables. true the drives are not interchangable for the Veglia and ITI guages.

Do you notice the ticking at idle or only under acceleration? Hot worse than cold?

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