docc

You,ve got a 2000 sport, that goo is olive oil. Later they went to a rubbery black sealant that works much better. Maybe if they'd been more certain to use virgin olive oil but it can be hard to tell for sure and olives don't always tell the truth about these things . . . When the starter is off, look at the ends of the shafts for the shift plates where they penetrate the side case. These often weep and can be sealed with a good RTV silicone.

Sweet little thing with its good bits all showing

The driveline is certainly moved to the right ( about 12 mm , coincidentally) but I can't imagine the tires don't follow one another. Also, it's my front that is off to the right. But you had me going there for a minute . . . I need a drink. I am still hoping for all input before heading to Computrack in Atlanta on Friday. The Sport is stripped and ready for their measurements and correction. Some may not have seen the V11 like this:

There is a thread on the "Sylvania Silver Star" worth reading. It is a whiter bulb without a big increase in wattage. Indeed the stock wiring sends all this current through the switch which is suspect even at the stock wattages. And there is no geater electrical problem than getting the smoke back in the wires.

Last September I slid into the airdam of a BMW sedan . Replaced the bent swingarm and everything seemed to bolt up just fine. 5000 miles later I think the bike could be better. I readjusted the swingarm recently by centering it ( see the Swingarm Pins thread) and got a nasty headshake. That and the accelerated tire wear caused me to apply the lazer and find the offset. The lazer is pretty neat. It's a simple builder's level with a battery powered lazer in one end which will project a line. With the bike on the paddock stand I propped the level against the rear tire on a stack of CD cases and marked the floor beside the front tire.

The front is off to the right . Looks like I'll be hauling it to Atlanta friday to let Computrack have threir way with it. Off comes the body work, fenders, lights and instruments. I couldn't get 13,000 on a tire hauling it on a trailer!

I actually ran with a few wraps of electrical tape on one of mine for some time waiting for the part to come in.

Sometimes the cushdrive gets so full of grease from the splines it just won't quit flinging on the wheel. Time to take it off and clean it well followed by a thin coat of grease all around it.

That and blue Loctite!

After the ride to the mountains I find a bit of head shake not there before. After talking with Andy I find this improves by backing the pins off 1/4 turn per side.

Has anyone used Computrack to tune the V11 frame alignment? I've just checked mine by using a builders level that projects a lazer line. The front is offset 12 mm( ! ! ). No wonder the rear tire is wearing so quickly!

No, the olive oil is reserved to seal the cases on the early gearboxes. Hmm, an oil soluble case sealer . . .

Music is one thing but . . . I remember the last thread that chimed ' no euro' ended up with a lock on it.

Your gonna have to quit writing in 'Sam Houston.'

As happenened before, when I cleaned my tank out ( removed the petcock and poured all the gas out), the fuel light now comes on bright and more consistently. WTF?

I used the Carl Allison method and found the pins push the swingarm laterally 0.078" ( 2 mm ). Using a Vernier caliper I centered the swingarm without play. Apparently the pins 'capture' the center of the swingarm bearings. These bearings are identical to the wheel bearings. Without capturing the center the swingarm would be free to rotate around the pin instead of within the bearing. ( It is notable that these bearings gather a lot of crud and would benefit from a periodic check, clean and grease.) Thanks to all for the insight and replies. I have much more confidence in the setting now.

No, really, I think there is a point to taken from all this. As Guzzi enthusiasts we are all probably a little fanatical about our motors. Every bit on the splinter-fringe as a guy who builds his own audio equipment ( >) It rather comes down to perception . I swear my Sport is just happier with an oil change. That and a valve adjustment and she positively sings. It's an analog song, sure, but beauty to my ears. As our personal perception about our oil preferences lead us to lavish more attention and care on the machine , she runs all the better and longer , cooler and stronger.

It's certainly more common for the rubber air intakes to split than regulators to go bad. When it acts up, pull to the side of the road and open the tank. See if there is a vacuum??

Pretty sure MG-Nashville has a set of the Ti pipes/ECU in stock . . .(615)353-1919). They look really nice. Saw them on a Sport that the rep brought out for demo rides. These are higher than usual and make the bike look lower.

My chassis' biggest flaw continues to be the loose nut attached the clip-ons.

By 'normally closed' you mean that the coil is not activated?

I had the Redline Light in my gearbox for 4500 miles now. No leaks but are there other issues I should worry about? I change it with the motor oil at about 3000 miles or so.

It doesn't seem like the pins move the swingarm or locate it. The swingarm appears to be located by the side plates, no?