docc

I actually ran with a few wraps of electrical tape on one of mine for some time waiting for the part to come in.

Sometimes the cushdrive gets so full of grease from the splines it just won't quit flinging on the wheel. Time to take it off and clean it well followed by a thin coat of grease all around it.

That and blue Loctite!

After the ride to the mountains I find a bit of head shake not there before. After talking with Andy I find this improves by backing the pins off 1/4 turn per side.

Has anyone used Computrack to tune the V11 frame alignment? I've just checked mine by using a builders level that projects a lazer line. The front is offset 12 mm( ! ! ). No wonder the rear tire is wearing so quickly!

No, the olive oil is reserved to seal the cases on the early gearboxes. Hmm, an oil soluble case sealer . . .

Music is one thing but . . . I remember the last thread that chimed ' no euro' ended up with a lock on it.

Your gonna have to quit writing in 'Sam Houston.'

As happenened before, when I cleaned my tank out ( removed the petcock and poured all the gas out), the fuel light now comes on bright and more consistently. WTF?

I used the Carl Allison method and found the pins push the swingarm laterally 0.078" ( 2 mm ). Using a Vernier caliper I centered the swingarm without play. Apparently the pins 'capture' the center of the swingarm bearings. These bearings are identical to the wheel bearings. Without capturing the center the swingarm would be free to rotate around the pin instead of within the bearing. ( It is notable that these bearings gather a lot of crud and would benefit from a periodic check, clean and grease.) Thanks to all for the insight and replies. I have much more confidence in the setting now.

No, really, I think there is a point to taken from all this. As Guzzi enthusiasts we are all probably a little fanatical about our motors. Every bit on the splinter-fringe as a guy who builds his own audio equipment ( >) It rather comes down to perception . I swear my Sport is just happier with an oil change. That and a valve adjustment and she positively sings. It's an analog song, sure, but beauty to my ears. As our personal perception about our oil preferences lead us to lavish more attention and care on the machine , she runs all the better and longer , cooler and stronger.

It's certainly more common for the rubber air intakes to split than regulators to go bad. When it acts up, pull to the side of the road and open the tank. See if there is a vacuum??

Pretty sure MG-Nashville has a set of the Ti pipes/ECU in stock . . .(615)353-1919). They look really nice. Saw them on a Sport that the rep brought out for demo rides. These are higher than usual and make the bike look lower.

My chassis' biggest flaw continues to be the loose nut attached the clip-ons.

By 'normally closed' you mean that the coil is not activated?

I had the Redline Light in my gearbox for 4500 miles now. No leaks but are there other issues I should worry about? I change it with the motor oil at about 3000 miles or so.

It doesn't seem like the pins move the swingarm or locate it. The swingarm appears to be located by the side plates, no?

jaap, how many km on your gearbox? How many since the last oil change? Aren't you coming to the States soon?

I would like to think I would notice it , too. But, sometimes I think I must not be that swift of a rider. I'll scope out the alignment and see if it shows any asymmetry. I turned the pins in and the right went in further than the left. I turned the left out a full turn and the right out two to make them look similar in the lock nut. Am I making more trouble ?

So I see the line is really 7/16" . I wrapped it in aluminized duct tape ( not the sticky grey stuff) for now . It makes a much straighter shot to the pump at 9" instead of the 12" line that angled down and along the base of the cylinder.

Thank you, Gentlemen!

I've just replaced my 'electric cock' with the manual one TX sent me. I don't know why I couldn't line it up before , it just dropped right in this time. It looks like I can do with about 3 inches less fuel line to the pump. This will get the route well away from the cylinder fins. How important is it to have the steel braid on the line? Or can I just use some 1/2 " ID fuel line to the pump?

I know the manual says " put the swingarm pins back where you found them." But my swingarm has been replaced. Now I wonder how deep to set the pins. For the last 4000 miles I've just set them the same both sides but surely there's more to it than that??