docc

Not likely the '01 would cook off any engine paint. Most of the wiring is right sided. Maybe you could risk a start up with the seat off so you could monitor where the trouble arises? Most likely smoke culprit behind the motor is gear oil onto the crossover . . .

Good advice all the way round! I really need to find a grounding point forward on the frame to earth the lights and horns as they are grounded back through the harness as stock.

I wonder if the US bikes have a deeper flat spot than the Euro or Canadian bikes? Different part numbers for the ECU maybe?

In prior discussions the conjecture was that the sensor is a Hall effect device activated by a magnet in a float. Hence the tendency to have some intermittent 'glow' before the fuel level triggers a bright 'on' condition at the bulb. Using this theory I removed my tank and petcock and cleaned the tank out really well. Lot's of crap came out of it. Afterwards the low fuel sender appeared to work more reliably. ( Notably, this was after a tipover which I thought must have dislodged all the miling and sealing debris in recesses of the tank). It would be great to understand what the sender really is . . .

Is that just the hand held software interface device in conjuction with a gas analyzer?

I had used 5.1 on an older disc system with good results . I understand it is 'thinner' for use with ABS systems. I wonder if it would be a good choice for our finicky rear brakes allowing the piston to retract more reliably?

I'm afraid those who push these bikes hard on knarly pavement will always find their limits. Yet, there are so many things you can do to help. The early red frames are the most susceptible ( shorter, steeper and less bracing). The Pirelli Dragon Corsas original to my 2000 Sport were horrible weavers at speed. Every tire since has been better. The steering damper might damp some of the low speed ( 40-45 mph) wobble but at the cost of heavy steering and INCREASED high speed weave. Most say least is best in the steering damping. The high unsprung weight in the rear and generally high rear wieght bias are contributors to the weave. Increasing the front weight bias is helpful and there are several ways to do this as many have listed above. Moving your seating postion way forward ( 'climbing onto the tank', as they say) is a simple way to weight the front. Echoing what Mike S and Lex have been telling us all along: get the proper springs for your weight. ( It's on my to-do list).

I wish we had a nearby dyno center. I'd be more confident in spending the $$$ and getting the thing right the first time. Also there have been more than a couple reports of problems after adding the device. With my bike running pretty decent I don't know if I want to risk another source of reliabilty issues.

I looked but did not see your recommendation for the wire size of the hot feed. I used 16 guage but have heard suggestions all the way to 12 guage. Also worth considering is the routing from the battery and whether you want to add one more terminal on the stack or wire in a junction block. It seems like 20 amps is a mighty big fuse for a couple lamp filaments. I've been running a 7.5a ( but carry spares). Any rational on the fuse size? No doubt this modification and wiring the horns with dedicated relays is good medicine!

Weeell . . . I'm thinking the "cheapest and easiest" would be to adjust the valves .006/.008 or more, perfectly balance the throttle bodies and tweak the TPS a tad. I'm sure it's not the 'optimum' set-up but definately 'cheap and easy' ( like me).

Brian, I thought Pete Roper gave us a pretty thorough thread on this with pics and all. Did you try a search?

You want the simple answer to the relay question? From the front: starter, lights, side stand, computer, fuel system Look here for more. Of course, there's more to it. The Sarter Relay and Headlamp Relay work in tandem to flow power to the lamp circuit through the lamp switch. When the Starter Relay is activated ( by pressing the start button with the clutch switch 'made') power is diverted to the starter solenoid and the lamps are defeated. The "Sidestand Relay" is activated by the Neutral Switch. It flows power to the Run Switch which, in turn, activates the ECU Relay, Fuel Relay and electric petcock ( if your bike has one). In gear, power to the Run Switch flows through the Side Stand Switch itself bypassing the relay. The ECU Relay is activated by current from the Run Switch . The power flow through the ECU Relay from Fuse 1 activates the Fuel Relay which flows power to the injectors, coils and fuel pump. Gesundheit!

Wow! Very encouraging that someone scooped it up. The last couple Sports I watched lingered for while and failed to sell. Hope the new guy finds us.

I agree with KB on this. My 2000 Sport has had every kind of tranny failure known but not spring breakage. This phenomenon seems to show up in 2002. While the springs certainly don't appear to be of a high quality, some bikes seem to break them over and over.

Lookherefor more on this topic of rewiring the headlamps.

I've run hotter bulbs on varius machines and onserved damage from the heat and current draw. Search for a thread on the Sylvania Silver Star bulb. It has a destinctively more white color and is rated only a bit higher ( seems like it is 66/77 or something like that). Notably , I'm using a dedicated hot and separate relays for hi and lo beams.

Bruce, I advanced my TPS setting with good results. Unfortunately , it's a trial and error thing and my settings may vary from yours due to differences in the CO trim which I am unable to check. It is notable that my TPS settinbgs as delivered were awfully lean. Currently it is set to the normal specification at idle.

I'm with Chris^ . . . 30,000 miles with Mistrals and K&N filter. Just be sure TPS is set and the throttle bodies balanced well. The stock map appears to flow plenty of fuel to color the plugs and keep a nice dark deposit on the exit of the pipes. Before tweaking my TPS the header pipes were turning blue. Now they have a deep bronze color and the same for both sides.

Antonio, I am not familiar with that logo on the boot. Who makes it? I find when my Sport sits a while its mileage drops. After riding a while the fuel economy gets better.

Heck, I took my extenders off to 'shave' the look of the Sport. This works ok for the Stucchi fairing. What Cafe Fairing are you using?

Some crusty bikers told me "HD" stands for " Hundred Dollars" as every thing to buy for the HD costs that much!

Antonio, Here's an official forum perscription for 1000 km on your Guzzi. You'll feel better!

Nothing made my Sport seem faster than riding my 28 hp single for 3 months waiting for the Guzzi to return.

I had Z Custom Leathers make a two piece for me a couple years ago. Very, very nice. Also very knowledgable and caring people there. Z Custom Leathers Huntington Beach, CA, USA www.zcustom.com

I agree with Jason on the weight behind the axel. I had my Teknos loaded pretty heavy last year in the mountains and didn't like how it affected the handling. I'm looking to remake the frames to move the bags forward and lower.