docc

I got tired of the crap slinging out onto the rim. Plus some Triumph guy said something like , " i thought they had shafts to stop that kind of thing!" Pulled the rear wheel, took off the plate that holds the cush drive ( 6 bolts) and cleaned out all the old grease that had flung in there from the splines ( it was a mess). 74 miles at 80-95 mph tonight and no 'weepage.' ( yes, that photo shows where the grease comes out when the cush drive is overloaded with grease. it needs to be lubed but not sloppy.)

My rear wheel has gotten spattered more lately. I thought it was the spline grease spinning out through the cush drive . . . I guess it's time for a minor tear down to inspect . . .

Again, I thought this was an issue with the older 16m computer, not the current 15M on our bikes.

Good news on some easy sorting! it's worth mentioning again that when the speedo drive is assembled to the gearbox you must be sure the short drive shaft is aligned in the slots otherwise it willpush the bevel drive apart as you tighten it down.

Mebbe your sweet green Guzzi was just waiting for the Ford mechanic to move on . . .

Per "Guzziology" it's good medicine to put a jam nut against the big white thumb knob which adjusts the linkage balance.

Like so many 'highly tuned' Italian machines your service interval may be too long to wait to adjust valves and adjust the balance of the throttle bodies. A crack in the intakes will throw the balance off hopelessly. Spray a little carb cleaner on the intake cracks to see if the idle varies. If so the intakes need replacing (or at least a few wraps of electrical tape!). Speedometer failure is often cable related. Or on the early bikes , the bevel drive will press apart on reassembly.

It sounds like you need to be flowing more fuel. The old tub of an engine likes the cooling of fuel flowing over the valves. Check your TPS setting and be sure the throttle bodies have perfect balance in the 3000 rpm range. My 2000 Sport was really fuel sensitive until I got all the tuning squared away.

Last September my V11 Sport fell from full lean and slid 8 to 10 meters on the right exhaust and stock headguard. It ripped the sparkplug boot and bent the tip of the plug just a bit. Rode it home. The Joe Kenney guards I have now are just a few millimeters bigger so I would hope they might save the plug boot. (I don't wanna know.) Some of Joe's guards are bigger but I'm a slave to vanity.

Bill, how's your hearing? Did they say god, or dog? Arff!! You, too, can become world famous if your gearbox breaks, leaks or misbehaves more than anyone else. As I've said: there is a world expert on the Guzzi 6-speed and it are us. Strangely, the early boxes don't seem to suffer the spring breakage like they have in 2002 and, now apparently, later. I always try to remind myself to shift like the springs are made of glass.

TX, I wouldn't tell ya this if I didn't luv ya , but you should know to keep your women away from your tools!

In this modern age I decided to upgrade the Karma bell concept and installed Karma horns. 135dB Fiamms work for both Karma and dogs.

This certainly sounds like a sticking neutral switch. Start parking in gear so the switch spends more time 'out' than 'in.

OK, yer crazy. My tire guy tells me there are 'radial patches ' that apply from the inside and a reinforced stalk pulls through the hole that you must enlarge with a drill. For me I would spring for the new tire and let tX bread mosquitos in the old one.

the terminal stack is prone to loosening as well introducing various electrical gremlins. Even the connections on the junction blocks require a torque check from time to time. terminal junctions

Good advice from all of the above! I know the oil is not yet due for you to change but it wouldn't hurt to give it a fresh 850ml of the right stuff. Several of us are running Redline. Anyone else with seaps??

I recall the fried ECU was an issue with the 16M computer but apparently not the current 15M. Cliff and others can clarify this for us. The relay resistor is only there to protect the relay contacts. The early seats seem to rub on everything under them. I haven't had trouble with mine rubbing the relays but have done lots of relief work and reshaping underneath with the Dremel. The larger Bosch relays fit under it just fine ( they're not much bigger unless this is a different relay from the ealry replacements).

Adjusting the throw on the pawl is easy. It just never solved any of my shifting problems. (New gearbox did that). I don't think your spring changes will affect the movement of the pawl. The adjuster should probably still be centered. If it is not engaging fully in either upshifts or downshifts , the movement of the pawl can be adjusted with the external adjuster. First, remove the acorn cap nut. Note the postion of the screw slot in the end of the shaft. Hold this with a blade screwdriver and release the locknut. ( A 19mm "crow's foot" works well. Rotate the shaft with the screwdriver one way then the other noting the travel oy the shift arm. As I recall it only moves 1/2 turn so adjustments of 1/8 turn may change engagement. Both nuts are sealed with normal crush washers. Either renew them or expect to if the box drips there after you mess with them. Belfastguzzi and Baldini should be given The Golden Sparkplug for sharing this with the world. Carlo would be proud! :!:

I think that Sport Corsa is a beautiful bike. And much in common with the later Sports. Even the singing and dancing. Can you see from that diagram how your shaft goes together?

That makes sense that the bevel drive is being pushed apart from tightening it down against the short driving shaft when it is not keyed into place. 2000 miles on mine since sqeezing it back together and no problems.

Just remember if you're taking the bike down from the off side, be sure the side stand is down just in case. ( Good advice from Andy York, MG-Nashville, another good dealer).

I've also read the electric petcock may act like this. check the wires going into it as they are rather fragile.

I believe the V11 Sport and LeMans use a different driveshaft without this spring-collar. There are some 1100 owners here on the forum and hopefully one will chime in. Carl??

The safety interlocks are confusing. But, basically, the clutch switch is separate. It is wired between the starter button and the starter relay. Look here at the connectors. The sidestand switch and the neutral switch are interfaced and send power to the "run " switch. ( NOT the starter relay). The bike will get power to the ECU in neutral by the neutral switch activating the "SIDESTAND (middle) RELAY." Yes, it's true the "SIDESTAND RELAY" is activated by the NEUTRAL SWITCH not the sidestand switch. Under normal riding the ECU power comes to the "run" switch through the sidestand switch. ( It 'makes' with the stand up). Defeating BOTH the sidestand switch AND the clutch switch is a formula for starting your bike up in gear.