docc

Must be on the old server. I'll ask jaap to update it.

I couldn't get my weights off at first either. So I did put a set of "Superbike grips" on over the weights. Well, they did go on but what a pain in the . . . Electrical contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol helps to add slip but will then evaporate away. The threads which anchor the weaights begin right at the outboard opening to the clip-on. Try applying some "Breakfree CLP" over a period of days and retry breaking the things loose. Best of luck, docc

So the lead will corrode before the Aluminum?

WOW! That's a georgeous bike! And glad to see a wrecker company that knows how to move one. (resized picture) docc

no mysytery. The higher pressures from the tire manufacturer will keep the tires intact longer and the lower pressures of the bike manufacturer will keep the bike intact longer.

The front of the battery cage can be moved under the frame mount ( rather than on top). This requires rounding the front outside corners of the cage with a grinder or file. This moves the battery down about 1/4".

i've tried to link to Dan Pruneske's site for relays but no connection. Does anyone have a link to his site or other source for the correect Bosch relays?

here's a photo with the relays labeled. it is 'upside down' from the original photo in this thread. It does appear the mechanic tried to hot wire the light relay from the ECU (computer) relay . Not a good idea. There are other approaches to lessen the load on the relays for the lights and the horns. Search for relay failures to learn more.

Hey, we're meeting in Athens July9 - 11. Oh, no, wait, that's Tennessee, USA, where State Troopers and other realities prevail . . .

Well, you'll be missed. I'm hoping it turns out a few of the faithful that we may admire one another's rides and practice a little cerebral anodization as all Brothers in Guzzi should. Oh and this:

i've never heard of them 'melting' ( no personal experience) but I do remember some magazine tests where the seams would fail on jean-type riding pants. Also, there is no impact protection which is mighty nice for that first millisecond ( some personal experience).

Hey, what you wear under yer kilt, er, leathers, is your business unless I can benefit from knowing. Then it becomes "technical." The kayakers in these mountains use a polypropylene weave called 'capalene' which is ideal under either leathers or the textile riding suits. And there is no substitute for the gerbings electrics in temperatures below 50*F. Riding under 38*F you need rolling tire warmers as well.

Yeah , the early versions have the 'bevel drive' also prone to failure and , like, $70 USD. I have a spare but hate knowing I'm gonna need it someday.

I've used Photoimpression ( arcsoft ) to downsize the photos. I hope noboby minds but they're sure easier to browse. Thanks again for posting them you-bad-moto-gewtser-you!

july 9-11 in Athens, TN, we will be testing the hypothesis that Guzzisti can be anodized in brief evenings between excellent rides in the mountains. i can write you a grant, er a note that is, declaring your presence is required to monitor expected outcomes.

It's been said elsewhere but bears repeating: you should pull out all those Siemans relays and replace them with bosch units. More than half your problems will be solved.

Don't sugar coat it, Carl. Go ahead and tell him his mechanic's a moron. Mark, you're in the right place to sort this out. Be patient and you'll find this is an easy , minor issue.

This is so.

for certain 2000 and 2001. Perhaps some '99s Can anyone say if there are any 2002s?

Back the knob off to decrease rebound damping. That will let the rear rise easier. Are you sure that's what you want?

Your rebound for the rear is a knurled knob directly on the shock. To limit dive you would want the rear the restrict extension , or rebound damping to increase along with the front compression damping. I rode my Sport 27,000 miles before the missed gears got annoying enough to be a hazard. When are you gonna be in the neighborhood?

The abraion theory seems pretty plausible what with all the vibration in the clip -ons. Even though I packed the balls in tightly I imagine the vibration could still continually expose fresh aluminum. I guess I'll dig it all out and repack the lead in grease. I realy don't want to use anything that will harden up as I'd like the option to remove the stuff. I've learned a good chemistry lesson though. If my assessment is correct, the LaPhroig would be the anode, water the conducting agent and my brain - the anode. Stop by when in Lower Middle Muletown and we'll get anodized!

I just dissassembled my bar-ends on my 'other' cafe racer and found the clip - ons full of powder looking like the corrosion which forms on the battery terminals. Two years ago I had filled them with some lead shot. There has been much discussion of this to damp vibration and my Guzzi has about an once of shot up inside its clip-ons. I know we have a chemist or two on the forum, so I am wondering if the lead and aluminum are forming some sort of 'battery' and slowly turning my clip-ons to aluminum foil?

Could you guys post a pic or diagram of the change to the front engine bracing?

HEY! Who you callin' off center??