docc

for certain 2000 and 2001. Perhaps some '99s Can anyone say if there are any 2002s?

Back the knob off to decrease rebound damping. That will let the rear rise easier. Are you sure that's what you want?

Your rebound for the rear is a knurled knob directly on the shock. To limit dive you would want the rear the restrict extension , or rebound damping to increase along with the front compression damping. I rode my Sport 27,000 miles before the missed gears got annoying enough to be a hazard. When are you gonna be in the neighborhood?

The abraion theory seems pretty plausible what with all the vibration in the clip -ons. Even though I packed the balls in tightly I imagine the vibration could still continually expose fresh aluminum. I guess I'll dig it all out and repack the lead in grease. I realy don't want to use anything that will harden up as I'd like the option to remove the stuff. I've learned a good chemistry lesson though. If my assessment is correct, the LaPhroig would be the anode, water the conducting agent and my brain - the anode. Stop by when in Lower Middle Muletown and we'll get anodized!

I just dissassembled my bar-ends on my 'other' cafe racer and found the clip - ons full of powder looking like the corrosion which forms on the battery terminals. Two years ago I had filled them with some lead shot. There has been much discussion of this to damp vibration and my Guzzi has about an once of shot up inside its clip-ons. I know we have a chemist or two on the forum, so I am wondering if the lead and aluminum are forming some sort of 'battery' and slowly turning my clip-ons to aluminum foil?

Could you guys post a pic or diagram of the change to the front engine bracing?

HEY! Who you callin' off center??

My Hg sticks always have a little water in the columns. I've always just ignored that fraction and read the Hg ( mercury) only. It is annoying to have the water riding on top of the column and it is never the same amount in each column.

'Jeff in Ohio' has given us a really nice 'How To' on idle/TPS and throttle body synch. There is no real substitute for doing the whole she'bang. That said you can back your air screws out a little to tweak the idle . Or screw in the idle slop screw on the left throttle body. Again, best results are achieved by valve adjustment and carefully setting the TPS, throttle body synch and quaffing grappa.

i'm not sure if your scura looks like the earlier V11Sport or the later LeMans? The LeMans does have a more anodized look but I understand this is really paint. The y2k and '01 red frame Sport can be matched with Testor's Enamel italian Red. don't ask me how I know.

Al, if you don't mind, give us another link to order the TwinMax.

Tam, the ducting under the side panel is the airbox. I've always pulled my tank and airbox to set the preload. I've done it by 'drifting' as Brian suggests but found it much nicer to use a pair of c-spanners like are sold for adjusting motocross shocks. And Brian's right about another thing, once set you won't have to mess with it.

I'm not sure how long dealers take on this work. And really the motor doesn't need to come out as the spine frame can be 'crabbed.' Look here: crabbing the spine frame

I seem to recal Ducati Monster pegs are a fit.

1) I'd say, "yes" , the recall is worth it. 2) I dunno, some of you guys help us out on a good dealer 'up east.' 3)my understanding is that NHTSA recalls don't expire. But it is probably advisable to to get'em while they're hot.

Both sets of my off-road (Mistral) Guzzi cans were cf.

My origanal plan was to fill the holes. A friend supplied me with some aircraft grade epoxy, fiberglass strands and graphite powder to mix a concoction to match the cf. Never got the courage up to try it. mj, I'm just assuming you have cf cans. Or are they aluminum?

It happened on my single but I'm pretty sure the Guzzi shakes its barends just as much. I felt a fluttering against my arm while trouncing a backroad at full chat. I thought it was a bird or something but looking down I realized the glass in the CRG had detached. I know several of us run these mirrors. I discovered that the hold down screw was not very tight on any of mine. A good candidate for blue Lock Tight. May save you $6 plus S/H.

Al, if you ground the rivets flush , wouldn't they just fall in? Also, I supose you could fill the holes with some good black hi-temp RTV silicone and wipe it off flush with the surface. Whatever you do , mj, let us know!

I have a small collection of those valuable, original plaques. I am quite conscientious about keeping them safely off-road in the lid of my toolbox. The rivets dril out cleanly and you can refill the holes with pop rivets. I 'blackened' mine with an aluminum blackening solution sold by Birchwood-Casey for gun parts. After a couple tanks of gas your eye is no longer drawn to the rivets. Later I was lucky to add a pair of the nice Guzzi plaques Rich Maund had made up. Pricey, but nice.

B/U: have a look at this thread:V11 recall Also, do a topic search for 'Gearbox recall" under TechnicalTopics" for the last 180 days. Lot's of info. best of liuck, docc

try East wood. They supply good quality restoration finishes.

it's true the regulator routes fuel to the dead side of the tank. When the tank starts running low open the throttle WFO so more fuel makes it through the injectors where it belongs!

One turn out from fully closed.

How long can it be before some needy spine frame lands in Pete's hands? You know you want it! There's one out there just waiting for your loving touch. KB will tell you, you can keep the Tonti but some Scura or other Siren of a Guzzi calls you on!