docc

i've never heard of them 'melting' ( no personal experience) but I do remember some magazine tests where the seams would fail on jean-type riding pants. Also, there is no impact protection which is mighty nice for that first millisecond ( some personal experience).

Hey, what you wear under yer kilt, er, leathers, is your business unless I can benefit from knowing. Then it becomes "technical." The kayakers in these mountains use a polypropylene weave called 'capalene' which is ideal under either leathers or the textile riding suits. And there is no substitute for the gerbings electrics in temperatures below 50*F. Riding under 38*F you need rolling tire warmers as well.

Yeah , the early versions have the 'bevel drive' also prone to failure and , like, $70 USD. I have a spare but hate knowing I'm gonna need it someday.

I've used Photoimpression ( arcsoft ) to downsize the photos. I hope noboby minds but they're sure easier to browse. Thanks again for posting them you-bad-moto-gewtser-you!

july 9-11 in Athens, TN, we will be testing the hypothesis that Guzzisti can be anodized in brief evenings between excellent rides in the mountains. i can write you a grant, er a note that is, declaring your presence is required to monitor expected outcomes.

It's been said elsewhere but bears repeating: you should pull out all those Siemans relays and replace them with bosch units. More than half your problems will be solved.

Don't sugar coat it, Carl. Go ahead and tell him his mechanic's a moron. Mark, you're in the right place to sort this out. Be patient and you'll find this is an easy , minor issue.

This is so.

for certain 2000 and 2001. Perhaps some '99s Can anyone say if there are any 2002s?

Back the knob off to decrease rebound damping. That will let the rear rise easier. Are you sure that's what you want?

Your rebound for the rear is a knurled knob directly on the shock. To limit dive you would want the rear the restrict extension , or rebound damping to increase along with the front compression damping. I rode my Sport 27,000 miles before the missed gears got annoying enough to be a hazard. When are you gonna be in the neighborhood?

The abraion theory seems pretty plausible what with all the vibration in the clip -ons. Even though I packed the balls in tightly I imagine the vibration could still continually expose fresh aluminum. I guess I'll dig it all out and repack the lead in grease. I realy don't want to use anything that will harden up as I'd like the option to remove the stuff. I've learned a good chemistry lesson though. If my assessment is correct, the LaPhroig would be the anode, water the conducting agent and my brain - the anode. Stop by when in Lower Middle Muletown and we'll get anodized!

I just dissassembled my bar-ends on my 'other' cafe racer and found the clip - ons full of powder looking like the corrosion which forms on the battery terminals. Two years ago I had filled them with some lead shot. There has been much discussion of this to damp vibration and my Guzzi has about an once of shot up inside its clip-ons. I know we have a chemist or two on the forum, so I am wondering if the lead and aluminum are forming some sort of 'battery' and slowly turning my clip-ons to aluminum foil?

Could you guys post a pic or diagram of the change to the front engine bracing?

HEY! Who you callin' off center??

My Hg sticks always have a little water in the columns. I've always just ignored that fraction and read the Hg ( mercury) only. It is annoying to have the water riding on top of the column and it is never the same amount in each column.

'Jeff in Ohio' has given us a really nice 'How To' on idle/TPS and throttle body synch. There is no real substitute for doing the whole she'bang. That said you can back your air screws out a little to tweak the idle . Or screw in the idle slop screw on the left throttle body. Again, best results are achieved by valve adjustment and carefully setting the TPS, throttle body synch and quaffing grappa.

i'm not sure if your scura looks like the earlier V11Sport or the later LeMans? The LeMans does have a more anodized look but I understand this is really paint. The y2k and '01 red frame Sport can be matched with Testor's Enamel italian Red. don't ask me how I know.

Al, if you don't mind, give us another link to order the TwinMax.

Tam, the ducting under the side panel is the airbox. I've always pulled my tank and airbox to set the preload. I've done it by 'drifting' as Brian suggests but found it much nicer to use a pair of c-spanners like are sold for adjusting motocross shocks. And Brian's right about another thing, once set you won't have to mess with it.

I'm not sure how long dealers take on this work. And really the motor doesn't need to come out as the spine frame can be 'crabbed.' Look here: crabbing the spine frame

I seem to recal Ducati Monster pegs are a fit.

1) I'd say, "yes" , the recall is worth it. 2) I dunno, some of you guys help us out on a good dealer 'up east.' 3)my understanding is that NHTSA recalls don't expire. But it is probably advisable to to get'em while they're hot.

Both sets of my off-road (Mistral) Guzzi cans were cf.

My origanal plan was to fill the holes. A friend supplied me with some aircraft grade epoxy, fiberglass strands and graphite powder to mix a concoction to match the cf. Never got the courage up to try it. mj, I'm just assuming you have cf cans. Or are they aluminum?