docc

The first machine I encountered with mixed fasteners was my 1989 Ford Taurus. Ah, well, Ford - Buell, same thing. So, Chris there in the British Isles - liters or gallons? Sounds like the Canadians are on km and liters.

Even in England?

Er, so, 38 miles per Imperial gallon is about 32 miles per US gallon? And the postesr from Canada, Ireland , Wales, Scotland, New Zealand and Australia are all into Imperail gallons ( except for those in liters)?

good plan. It beats housecalling you in Pasadena , although I would cherish the ride. " Be back in May, honey, I'm off to help a guy who wrenched his back wrestling his Guzzi."

I'm usually pretty good with unit conversions but translating mpg to km/l makes my head swim. And 'Imperial galons?' How are they relative to USG? My Sport is down to 33 mpUSg from 37.5 in the warmer months.The fuel light gives a little glow at 135 miles. It was once noted that colder temperatures really increase fuel consumption on the stock mapping. I've also noticed that riding is less frequent in winter leading me to be MUCH more exhuberant with the throttle.

Although my stand clears the round Guzzi (Mistral) canister on the left, I find myself pushing the lever down with my foot. It goes down with quite a *thwack* but doesn't strain my back and leaves me upright to mind the bike.

This is 45/87. I can't recall if the one in the tank is really shorter, only that it's diameter was much smaller.

Hmmm, that's the part number on this one as well. When I went to fit it I found the pick up screen was much larger than the electrical unit. Wouldn't go in the hole. (Nothing could be worse when it comes to 'cocks') I believe it was Al who suggested that loosening the mounting hardware would allow it to shift a bit and align well enough for the larger pick-up to slide in.

Jaap, You're really going all out on this bike! Are those Ohlins horns??

If you'll keep sending parts I should have a whole Tohatsu by Christmas!

As you all know this is a much debated issue. Anyone's attorney would tell you NOT to ride it. Of course all the attorneys are off riding Harley's and we know how well designed they are with their perfect and timely warranty support. At 25,000 miles my Sport wouldn't upshift or downshift reliably. Going into mountain switchbacks in neutral , jabbing for any-gear is not my idea of safe riding. I told MGNA and my dealer the bike was dangerous. The new gearbox is a delight. (but I never did stop riding it).

I use single malt scotch but I can't remember if it works. I tried the Grappa Bill Hagan suggested but I'm not even sure how the bottle went dry. Stuff must've leaked out.

What's the part number from your manual petcock? I tried one TX sent me and couldn't get it to fit . i'll try again when the tank's off next but wonder if there's more than one manual petcock available?

Aw, you guys are ruthless! Everyone needs a proper talisman with which to sally forth in the geatest confidence. For some it's a cable ( sure synthetic is fine), some oil or a few select electrical bits. For me it's a few zip-ties and a leatherman tool. It's rather important, before you start, to grasp the ties in the right hand, tool in the LEFT and circle the bike counterclockwise 2 1/2 times. Being from the south'n hemisphere Pete will have to reverse the process on one leg then repeat on the other leg when arriving in Detroit. Fumes are optional.

You, the wife and the Lemans will all be happier!

The tank seems to be wedged down over the side covers at the rear lower corners. This certainly contributes to cracking the side covers and I wonder how much strain it projects up along that area of the knee cut-outs. It's easy to shim the back of the tank up with a couple fender washers under the main mounting point. I used a steel one and a rubber one to add 50 or 60 thousandths (maybe 2mm). It's a little more difficult to lower the airbox by slotting the rear airbox mounting brackets and sliding the whole airbox/ sidecover assembly down and back to create clearance under the tank. This procedures definately save sidecovers and, who knows, may be a valuable step in saving the tank finish.

The start and light relays are the front two. click on this link ( ignore the modified position of the fasher unit): relay order

Probably cheaper, too!

The adjuster on the shock itself is for rebound damping and , yes , it should click adjust in both directions. The 'speed wobble' could be tire related ( pressure/ type), steering damper setting ( least is best), or *most often* not enough weight on the front. Increasing the rear preload may be your most effective adjustment. Something as simple as seat postion can make a huge difference. Try sliding up and leaning forward to weight the front for acceleration and cornering.

After you scrub them, even with soap and water, remember to use some water repellent ( like 'Camp Dry') to restore the fabric. It alsoi helps to seal the zipper tapes with the spray or, better yet, a seam sealer from a camp supply or Aerostich.

It's pretty hard this time of year to sort anything on the bike. But i have run two tanks of fuel through the Sport now and think it's back to normal. When I cleaned the petcock screen it was packed with lots of sealing and milling debris. I can only assume that much of it dislodged from the cavities in the tank during the tip-over. I'm also assuming that some of the junk was interfering with the movement of the floating magnet limiting its proximity to the sensor. At any rate, cleaning out the petcock screen and rinsing the tank seemed to do the trick!!

I just looked at two 2003 Guzzis at Moto Guzzi -Nashville. I was impressed by the tidy set-up with the in-tank pump. There were two fuel lines into it , presumably for feed and return . There were no implements on the left side of the tank. Evidently, the pump, regulator and low fuel sender are in the right side uniit. Very clean.

The left is the overflow and the right is the vent. Neither should be capped ( ecpecially the vent!) When my carbon cannister set-up mysteriously appeared in a box on the shelf , I "y-ed" the vent and drain together and groomed the routing behind the starter to zip-tie to the engine oil return line on the back of the sump.

I like the Dunlop 220. They seem softer than the 020 Bridgestones and the older Dunlop 205. They turn in nicely, stable at high speed seem to handle weather well.

From what you've found , and some of Gio's work, it sounds like the lines themselves are highly susceptible to heat soak. Isn't there an unshielded fuel line between the injectors that lies pinched between the frame and gearbox? I recall some braided fabric sleeves used in racing applications wehich may be appropriate. I'll see if I can find a source from records I have on the Merkur (Sierra) I refitted. Secondly, every time I have the tank off I find some of the reflective heat shield needs reattaching. I've been using "Shoe Goo", a toluene based adhesive. I wonder if the tank itself is susceptible to 'hot spots' that would benefit from a little extra shielding. Finally, that pressure regulator is completely unshielded. And the line to it is rather loosely draped. I don't remember if Gio took heat readings on that side. ( You asked for some thoughts)