docc

My Sport has never vapor locked . But I thought it good to take some simple precautions. Not to the extent Gio did but stilltrying to prevent trouble, I slid the fuel pump up in the bracket 15mm ( 5/8 ") and rotated the petcock to be sure the fuel line misses the head fins. Does everyone have a rubber coated pump and steel braid over the fuel line?

My low fuel light is not helping me out. Even after I drained the tank, then tipped it up and finally poured gas out the petcock hole. The light would still not come on. I can connect across the connector and the light burns brightly. Is the thing in the tank a potentiometer? Some kind of bimetel thing? What? BTW, when I refilled the tank after literally turning on end it would still only take 5.3 USG (specification is 5.8 USG). It also became amazing how much gas was trapped in the right side and in the two forward panniers. Also, I found a ton of crap stuck in the petcock screen. Perhaps from when it fell over, every scrap of junk dislodged to stick in the pick-up. I'm glad I cleaned it and perhaps it will give me a little more range. I intended to switch to the manual petcock but the one I have ( thanks to T.X.) has a pick up screen too large of diameter to fit in the hole. Any ideas?

'dk' These grips are indeed much more comfortable then the stock 'hammer handles' while maintaining a good sense of control.

I've never seen any slide right off but I have seen them migrate out enough to rub on the bar ends or bar-end mirrors causing the throttle to stick open or return very slowly.

OK , I'll bite. Whats the ' rest of the story?' I ordered one those accessory sticks but haven't seen it or a price yet. it occurred to me the plastic stick would be easier to check hot.

Bill, Here's a shot of the relays zip-tied to the right side of the spine. The stock horn wires will reach them there and they are grounded to the mount for the fuel pump using star washers. The relays are the old Siemans that came out of the bike when the Bosch went in. I'm theorizing they'll be OK since each is only carrying 3 amps and they are only activated when the horns are on. Still , I elected for a redundant back-up circuit by using a separate relay for each horn. EDIT, November 2006: One of the horns started blowing poorly. I swapped out the Seimens for the Bosch relays and all is well. I'm using GEI for the bikes main relays now. EDIT, September 2009: The bike's main relays have moved on to sealed OMRON while the Bosch relays (one for each horn) continue to blow FIAMMS though a 10 amp fuse.

I'm feeling like the world is , "once again, spinning on greased grooves" (Steinbeck). I went to the garage and checked on that blue Gearoil. Sure enough, it's in a sealed container and says "Red Line Synthetic Oil" on the front. It goes on to say "lightweight SHOCKPROOF� GEAR OIL."

You're officially allowed to say "1100"

See what I mean? Straight from dyno charts to chimps with Glocks! You guys are great fun to have at a party!

I'm pretty sure that is the shortest post Al ever made. If you,ve never followed an "oil thread" before, you should enjoy this. There is always a thorough mix of advice , zeal, humor, frustration, zeal, religion, economics and zeal. Did i mention the zeal? We love oil! And like certain orfices, we all have some. Pete posted an interesting observation recently that ( I'm paraphrasing deeply), no , synthetics don't make leaks but if you switch from one type oil to another it can stimulate some leaking. I have observed this in my auto. These 6-speeds are another story. The most highly recommended product is Redline Shockproof Gearoil ( which is a synthetic - blue, too). I'm running 75-150 which they consider "Lightweight". The Superlight is lower viscosity and heavy weight is higher. Lots of guys use the heavy depending on their astrological sign and degree of zeal.

I recall each LaFranconi from the Sport weighs 10 pounds and the round Guzzi (Mistral) carbon fiber canisters are 5 pounds each

What good are 'serious horns' without serious hooves?

Nemo, That would be like telling you once and for all that there is no Santa. You're probably better off to marvel at the roar when you push the button. I became afflicted rather early on. Instead of studying Algebra in eighth grade I thought it better to crawl under the dash of my brother's Austin Healey and attempt to make the little switch work that said "OVERDRIVE." Never did get that overdrive to kick in ( I don't think it really had one, just the switch) but have been chasing ( chased by?) little electrical challenges ever since. As the old Airframe and Powerplant (aircraft) mechanic once told me: " The hardest thing is to get the smoke back in the wires."

Wouldn't you have to use 'ceramic coat' ( like Jet Hot) to withstand the heat of the exhaust?

Well, for sure the clutch switch is out in the funk and benefits from a periodic clean, dielectric grease and seal. Just from the wirng diagram, it routes power from the start button to the starter relay to engage the starter solenoid. There are three points of concern in the run circuit : 1) The power to the ECU/FI relays goes through a single connector located under the relay stack. While it is a weather tight AMP connector, it does sit just above the rear fender and will benefit from a clean, inspect, dielectric grease. afterall, all the power to run must go through it. 2) When in neutral, the power to the run switch is through the middle (neutral) relay referred to as the " safety relay for stand " in the manual. It is not activated by the side stand but by the neutral switch. The neutral switch is prone to sticking ( always park in gear) but will not interupt running, just that the neutral indicator light will stick on. 3) When in gear the power to the run switch is through the side stand switch situated on the leading end of the side stand. This switch is really down in the muck! And all the power to the run switch goes through it. Periodically inspect ( along with the wires which run along side the alternator cover), clean with a spray contact cleaner and force in dielectric grease. If power to the run switch is impeded through the side stand switch , shift into neutral to see if normal running is restored as the 'neutral relay' provides an alternate route for power to the run switch . Keep the smoke in the wires!

Where from? KB,Cymru KB, Check out these threads: broken shift spring transmission springs

mik, Your LeMans is a Rosso Corsa or a Nero Corsa? ((My turn signals went on the fritz yesterday. Darned bike must have caught wind of this thread. Rampant animism! ))

Heck, I thought the clutch switch runs current to the starter relay. Such that, if it gets mucked up the bike won't start reliably. I didn't think it would affect the motor after it's already running? ? ?

Has anyone ctually measured what the bike draws just to run with its lamps on ?

Mik, Do you have a turn signal flasher mounted any where else? Does your 'extra relay' click and cllick with the turn signals on?

I'll have to wait until the tank is off to photo the relays. I mounted them along side the right of the spine. The stock horn wires reach them without modification. The 12V hot comes from the junction block after the stack of terminals began to eat into my psyche.

Er, is that "the horn button provides 12V to the relay ?" Keep the smoke in the wires , guys.

The power for the tail light also powers the instrument lights and the small 'city light' in the headlamp shell. Current flows through Fuse 6 ( 5 amp) and the ignition switch. Certainly a good idea to keep an eye on the fuse. The bulbs on the stock circuit are 11.4 watts so only pull less than an amp but the 70 watts of auxiliary light pull 5.8 amps. Just for the peace of mind of the ignition switch, a dedicated hot to the relay would be good medicine. Check out the junction blocks: Relay failures ( junction blocks) Great looking lights!

That original thread isRelay Failures. Here is a photo of the relays with the stick on letters. The turn signal flasher was relocated to this spot to make room for the junction block. There is nothing intuitive about the wiring to the relays. A careful review of the wiring diagram is vital to understand how the current flows. S - starter L - lights N - neutral ( side stand) C - ECU F - injectors/ pump/ coils

I would think there are many, many of us whose gearboxes will soon be apart where the springs will be easily accessible. This is coming at a perfect time to upgrade the reliability of the shift mechanism. Any word from the supplier on the nature and quality of the original springs relative to the aftermarket units?