docc

This is where my original gearbox cracked. Perhaps a site of future finning? The dealer said it's the kind of stress introduced by wheel stands. ( I reminded him tht his mechanic was the only bunger to ever wheelie my Sport). Sometimes the Sports will 'jump' into gear, slamming pretty hard. I have always wondered if that may have contributed to the crack. The oil tends to show up on the left side of the case toward the back. And, Carl, why couldn't the case be welded with the gears in it?

The two yellow wires from the alternator to the regulator look to be 12 guage. The alternator output peaks at just over 27 amps.

On the left side of the bike are the connectors for the clutch switch. The tank might have to be removed to access them. If they , or the clutch switch, fail the starter will not activate reliably. Pull the male with needle nose pliers. Clean well with electrical cleaner, brass bore brush, Q-tips - whatever. Fill the female side with petroleum jelly (like "Vaseline") liberally and reconnect firmly with the pliers. Seal with heat shrink and groom into the harness along the frame away from the weather.

Most of the connectors on these bikes are water tight and well located. A couple are suspect and require some attention. :luigi: The connection between the alternator and regulator is through two ' bullet connectors' located behind the oil cooler. To avoid corrosion and current spikes, apply petroleum jelly and seal over the junction with heat shrink:

And the changes under the seat : ( all soldered connections , heat shrink and a b'zillion zip-ties):

The only meaningful measure I could think to use is ' voltage drop.' I guess I could point the thing at the garage door and do a 'before and after' like the link we saw. i'm not expecting a brighter light(would be nice though) just hoping to enhance reliability and preserve my switches. Spaghetti in a bucket:

The AMP connnector for the headlamp can be opened and the individual connectors fastened to the relays ( these are 30 amp), one each for the hi and low beam. They will fit in the headlamp shell but I padded them with a thin sheet of closed cell foam to avoid damaging the back of the reflector. Now to run a 16 guage hot from the battery. I'm working on a junction block to get that stack of terminals off the battery. More on that tlater. Here's a photo of the harness modification :

The easiest feature to differentaite : the rebound damping adjuster on the WP is 'toothed' while the Sachs is 'knurled.'

Hey, this guy is so cool he doesn't even use brake lines.

This is what my tranny started doing after 16,500. ( Long story, most of you 've heard it). Then it was the downshift, too. Then any shift going into or out of third gear. Made riding a real tirg. I found that when it missed a gear i would have to go back for it. As if it had passed the detent for the gear. David, is this what you find? That ' gear passing' behavior is what led me to believe the springs on the early boxes are made of coat hanger wire. While the pawl spring can break, I believe the detent spring just gets weak. As the old air head B M U-know-what mechanics say, " if you can see a spring, change it." ( Those gearboxes have the same type shift mechanism as the 6-speed Guzzi).

I used a pair of the original Siemans relays for the Fiamms strapping them along the right side of the spine and routing the stock horn wires to them. Pretty clean really. biggest trouble is adding more terminals to the stack on the battery and tucking in another fuse holder. Does anyone make a relay that the headlamp connector would plug directly to? EDIT: November 2006: After a few years the Seimens relays began to crap out and I replaced them with the Bosch which I pulled out of the block to make room for the GEI set. Back to LOUD horns. EDIT: February 2014: Still using those two Bosch relays for my FIAMM horns. GEI in the relay block have given way to OMRON relays which are the absolute best of the best.

I hate it when that happens.

One other factor to consider with oil consumption is the length of the ride. if you're taking short hops and shutting down more often the consumtion will be higher. Riding longer priods at full operating temperature is better for both the consumption and the break in. ( Incantations muttered while casting about the shop wielding the dipstick as a talisman under the influence of mind altering substances has been reported to be effective as long as you don't ride til the next day)

I gave my Pilot Road front to a guy I know with a H***a. Maybe it has enough front weight bias to make the tire work right. And he is running the same on the rear. I've had five different tire types on the Sport and really like this new Dunlop 220.

Talking with Andy today on the phone, i must agree with him. The only way to rotate the speedo driveshaft at a different speed is to change the drive cog on the main shaft. Other options include installing the correct gearbox with the mph drive already in it or getting a kph speedo and learning metric.

After I pressed the bevel drive back together in the vice, the speedo works and is smoother than ever. I ran out of fuel the first day with no odometer. The fuel light came on right as the bike quit for good. It only took 4.6 US gallons. But that's another issue I'm working on. The bevel drive is not your problem. It's the part the bevel screws down onto. This is a short shaft which screws into the box itself. It is the same for '02 and '03. The question we need answered is what is different on the kilometer bikes. If it's not that 'speedometer drive' then what? Maybe the Dutch riders can help. They use kilometers, yes? Tomorrow morning I'll scan a photo from the shop manual showing this part.

Oh no! I was taking the wattage as a constant such that the current would vary with voltage. (edit:) So, it is true. I consulted a professor of physics ( best I could do) and found that there are no constants in the equation. Voltage goes up= wattage goes up= current (amperage) goes up. It's probably reasonable to assume that the wattage for 12v devices is rated at 12.7 volts which is the widely accepted standard voltage for 12vDC lead-acid battery systems. In that case the guzzi's 13.98 charging voltage will increase current through the harness about 10%. So the 60 watt hi-beam will burn at 66 watts and draw 5.5 amps. The charge voltage should diminish as the system comes to full charge but probably never drops below 13v. I wonder if bikes suffering relay failures are running much higher voltages? A bad regulator will eat the other electrical components in the system and tend to force electrolyte out of the battery ( which has been reported by some riders).

Vinyl stick on letters from the hobby store. "S", start; " L", lights; "C", computer; "F", fuel. The black one is an upgraded Siemans which I put in the "side stand relay" slot as it is the least stressed. It is actually activated by the neautral switch not the side stand switch. I put a couple of the original Siemans in a bubble bag and slid them into the tail cowl storage just in case . . . I measured voltages today: 12.72 v at rest, 13.0 after running a few minutes at idle and 13.98 v at 1800 rpm and up. This means the 60 watt hi beam will draw less amperage than it would at 12.0 volts ( 4.3 amps versus 5 amps at 12.0 volts). Less current is good news.

Thang, Is that the flat black job with the swing up chin guard seen in some of the sales literature?

I know several of us have added horn relays. But has anyone added lamp relays ( I'll bet they'll burn the headlamp brighter with a good guage of wire to them)? And which relay is which? I couldn't find a diagram or chart showing them.

cold beans and cornbread

David, I calculated the amperage by dividing the wattage by 12. now, theoretically a fully charged 12 volt lead-acid battery throws 12.7 volts. If the wiring harness is carrying 12.7v , amperage will be lower. I'll have to check my running voltage on the business side of the regulator. You're right of course about the three indicator lights on this circuit ( 0.1 amp each and rarely on) and the power to the tach. The light for the tach and speedo is on the 'dipped light' or 'parking light' circuit with the tail light, tag light and 4 watt 'city light' in the headlamp shell. This power comes through the ignition switch and creates a good auxiliary light system in event of relay failure. Also, quite true that when you activate that 'passing' feature it lights both the high and low beams routing 9.6 amps through the relays and switch, but probably only for an instant. I ride with the high beam on continually so I agree that there is a 5 amp current on the circuit continually. Add 2 amps with the brake light on. Seems like the relays should be OK with that, don't you think? Three of the five relays in the harness stay activated all the while the bike is running ( Light relay, ECU relay, FI/coil/pump relay). Does the constant activation degrade the relay ?

Here are some Joe Kenny guards with paintwork courtesy of Eastwood "Alumiblast' and Plasticote Ford engine red in the Eagles, all clear coated with Eastwood.

I've spent the afternoon eye-balling the wiring diagram of the 2000 V11 Sport. I have a couple observations and questions: First, the power the the headlamp, brake lamp and horns travels through both the starter relay and the light relay as well as the headlamp current also passing through the headlamp switch. With the standard bulbs the high beam and brake lamp will draw 6.75 amps.( The fuel warning lamp is also on this circuit but only draws 0.1 amp). Given that the Bosch relays are rated for 10 amps this current should pass through them for a good long time. ( The 6 amps going through the switch is another story). Wiring your horns to a separate relay is a darn good idea as they add 6 amps. And it's not unlikely to be using your horns, brakes and high beam all at once! Second, there is a wire from this circuit to the voltage regulator. The only thing I can figure is that it's a 'back door' to the ignition switch in the event of battery failure. *Question 1 * : Will the bike run without a battery? Adding up running current requirements , guessing wildly at their values, it looks like the bike could draw as much as 13 or 14 amps with the high beam and brake light on. If that's the case it needs to be turning 1300 - 1500 rpm to meet these requirement at normal generator output. * Question 2 * : Does anyone know what the bike normally draws to run, with the high beam and brake light on, as if stopped in traffic? ( Elec-trickery for the mind numb - )

Roberto, After asking around, I wonder if your new gearbox has a kilometer drive? You need to check with a dealer on the continent for the part number on the speedometer ( odometer) drive. The mph unit for the 2002 should be 01 76 25 60.