docc

My sport was very sensitive to brands of fuel until I richened the TPS. No pinging or stalling but fuel economy went from 37.5 mpg to 34.5 mpg.

I'm trying to understand how a deep sump would solve the starvation problem. I'm thinking it's more the modified pick-up than the actual sump. Is there no way to modify the pick-up on the original set up? Also, do you think a windage tray would solve the starvation?

The screens and packing will recuce noise like acoustic tile in a big room. The added surface area provides for this without much restriction in flow.

I've rather enjoyed a comfortable welcome here. I've been warned about beng 'hooted' off other boards and witnessed countless little tiffs on other forums. But not here. The acid test is for someone to post "I think I'll get rid of my Guzzi." This forum has always been most gentlemanly in response. Not so elsewhere as you'd be labelled 'troll' or worse. I appreciate all of your patience with me and my hope to better use and understand my V11. And Carl ! ! You know we 'Sport - sorts' are just visiting here in Le Mans land! That view of the mounds . . . eh, er . . .mountains is sure to offend the snobby LM types. You know they're not into nekkid stuff! Mebbe Jaap could photo-shop a fairing onto that green sport.

This is true. There should be some 'play' in the mount. Recently I discovered a crack at the hole where the bracket mounts to the clip-on. This soon became a 2-piece bracket. It is apparent that the lower mounting hole (slot?) extends into the bend. Certainly a formula for fracture with this level of vibration.

And I'm trying to imagine that those tanker trucks and the hoses they use are more sano than your Guzzi. No, fuel filters are a good thing! I continue to read the angst over Power Commanders. Without a doubt this introduces another aspect to be sorted and tuned.

Fuel line degragation is not unlikely. I guess changng lines with the filter change is not a bad idea. Remember, much more fuel is being pumped and filtered than burned because of the closed loop return system. You'd think the fuel would get cleaner and cleaner. But if there is line degradation new particles would be washed off with every pass. Because of the reduced surface area in the IsuZu filter the interval would be safer at 6000 miles. The water in the mercury columns is ever present and must throw off the readings. I've tried keeping mine next to a dehumidifyer but they still get the water. Ordered a Twin Max from Chapparal yesterday for around $64. Hate to give up the sticks. They're so . . . (old fashioned?) (arcane?) . . .(primal?) Oh, well, technology marches on and even the Guzzi will be advantaged to follow.

Has anyone asked Sachs if they can supply a higher rate spring for the rear unit?

While riding, I theorized the adjustment needed attention since the box was 'passing' upshifts and falling short on downshifts. After removing the cap nut I found the adjusting screw had migrated off center and its jam nut was no longer tight. I centered the screw by aligning a ruler behind the foot lever and carefully aligned the adjustment to center. Then, holding the slot still with a screwdriver, tightened the jam nut with a 19mm crow's foot. I'm still negotiating with the dealer on an inspection of the preselector mechanism for wear or damage. I've posted over on the Wildguzzi site for information on the Cycle World long term V11s. They apparently replaced the shift forks and, perhaps, the sliders. I'm looking for more info on this bike. Also, early production bikes are known for more difficulties. Most early production have polished (not painted) front turn signal extensions and finned exhaust manifolds. Mike, how early is your sport? How many miles when it grenaded?

Tonight i re-adjusted the 'pawl ' engagement. Technically referred to as the adjustment of the hook effect of the preselector. I had observed upshifts passed a gear and downshifts fell short. upon checking the adjuster I find that it had 'migrated ' off center. After resetting it to center missed shifts have *almost* disappeared! The adjustment is very sensitive as the shaft only rotates about 60 degrees moving the foot lever perhaps 5-6 mm. As Rich says, "This bike loves to have everything 'just so'."

Gio, Thanks for taking the time to give us a procedure on this. I would expect about a full turn of the thumbwheel to move the mercury 2 cm. Holding the throttle steady "off idle" should stabilize the columns. This is 1500-2000 RPM and up to perhaps 3000 rpm. Use caution releasing the throttle as the vacuum will increase and you don't want the motor to ingest the mercury! Do the Hg columns still jump around at a steady, off-idle throttle?

I've read long debates on what might spring seal leaks. The jury is still out. I put some moly in my gearbox last change hoping to improve shifting. It didn't. It just made it harder to evaluate the condition of the fluid upon changing the next time. Back to Bel-Ray. NOTE: The rear drive does hold 370 ml(cc) of which 20 cc is moly. The Guzzi stuff is good (shake well!), part number K660032. Now this: When my box miisses a gear I have observed it goes completely past it , into neutral before the next gear. This has been occurring now on the downshift as well. It has taken some time to confirm this observation. I find that if the box misses I shift BACK the other way to find the intended gear. This occurs more in hard acceleration (deceleration) and aggressive shifting. All other Guzzisti are saying, "You must shift very hard and with a long throw." While this may be true for the 5-speed I am now questioning this logic for the 6-speed. After studying enlargments from the manual detailing the 'preselector' mechanism, I reduced the leverage at the foot lever (lower hole) and at the splined shaft (rotated the input lever back so as to reduce its leverage while shortening the rod to its minimum length). I then took a ride purposefully minimizing inputs to the shift lever. The (tentative) result: many less missed shifts. It appears the preselector can be kicked into overtravel fairly easily. Under warraanty I will be disassembling my side cover (preselector cover) to better examine the workings. As always I will let you know what is found. I am confident we can make this mechanism shift more reliably. Now, my question to you: when your gearbox misses shifts, does it fall short of the next gear, or 'pass' it?

Paoli?? My Ducati friends say "pay-o-la." Do you think they're really any better than the Marzocchis?

Al, I'd need one of those nifty digicams to do it up right. Plus, I feel like the "How - To" threads otta be penned by someone more qualified than just tinkerin' me. One of the things that complicates it is how much we've each changed our bikes. Lot's of different exhaust, air filters and then there are Power Commanders. It's a case of what works for me may not work for you.Further, some of us are hacking into the ECU with a voltmeter and others are using software and a PC. How would we proceed with a task like that? Gio, yes, the 'idle screw' would be the horizontal stop screw which determines the minimum opening of the throttle at idle. The manual calls it the "adjustment screw." It is also careful to say not to use it to adjust the idle ! The idle is a balancing act between the CO level, TPS setting, air bypass and synchronization. BTW, what is "LHS?"

Check out the "spitting and Popping "thread. This requires a digital voltmeter, synchronizing tool and , I prefer, sinlgle malt scotch .

The manual says to : Set the TPS Adjust the idle (best done with the left idle screw, defeating the right completely) Balance with the air bypass closed Reset the idle Warm up and check the CO Reset the idle and check the balance The manual actually says more than this, as you know. Every time you change one setting it affects the others, like a cat chasing its tail. As Dave Richardson says in "Guzziology" going over and over the procedure brings you closer and closer to the optimum. You can "back probe" the ECU connector but straight pins work better than paper clips. Black/violet is positive and violet is negative. I have found 525 mV (3.6 degrees open) at idle to be rather rich. This is why opening the air screws a bit more will often smooth out the unstable idle. All of this , of course, IMHO after fussing, fiddling and fettling 24,000 miles.

Gio, No question you are out of synch if the cylinders vary over 0.5 cm Hg. It is best to bring the cylinders into synch 'off idle' and see that that they remain so as rpm rises. This is dine eith the idle air bypass screws closed. It is recommended to add a 'jam nut' to the thumb wheel to keep the linkage from changing. Being certain the TPS is correct, then set idle at 1050+/- 50 and back out the idle screws 1/2 turn. Frankly, I find the motor to idle more reliably at 3/4 turn and 1100+/-50rpm. Gio, I could not understand your TPS measurement. I have seen millivolts (525 mV) and degrees opening (3.6 degrees). I am thinking the 'vent tubes' Jason mentions are the hoses for the US spec vapor cannisters.

I found my dealer's extent of tuning went something like, " it starts, it runs, don't touch it." A little extra time with the synchronizing has worked wonders. Those electronic synchronizers ( I use mercury) are probably worth their weight. Fettling the TPS and idle settings will bring you ever closer to that Zen state of Guzzi idle. Learning to do it yourself is easy and very satisfying.

So, now that we know Lindeman has the experience to rework our marzocchis reliably, who can rework this Sachs unit? Tell me it's not a throw away! At 160 pounds the rear is not too bad (bad, but not TOO bad ) Until I loaded the Tekno bags for the mountains. The racks carry them BEHIND the axle and really lift the front. "Boing" is not a performance term!

Turning the key on and off a few times should purge the fuel delivery system without having to run the bike. Also, Gio, is the tank pulling a vacuum? Check this by being sure the cap will open without suction.

I figured extra fittings would translate to extra places to leak. At that pressure the stuff could atomize through a small leak and form an external combustion engine between your knees! David, did you still have to lengthen the fuel line for the IsuZu filter? If so, how much, just an inch?

Just returned from the local parts haus,sitting on a case of Pennzoil reding the Prolator application charts. I gotta getta life! The welded filter is, as you say, for IsuZu. All '01 and '02 as well as Trooper '92 to '02. It is a very stout looking device , about an inch shorter than the Weber but longer than the Nissan application which is crimped onto a plastic end. The welded filter appeals to me as I have observed any number of vibration related failures on the Sport. I'd rather not see one with fuel pressure behind it! At $7US I think I can afford to change it every 6000 miles. With the filter piggy-backed to the frame the straight connectios look to be the way to go.

Interesting. I've just played this same filter game. After finding the threaded connectors were not for the V11LM/S I fitted the Nissan application and began to research. I found extremely helpful technical assistance from a fellow (motorcyclist) at Pureoil (Purolator filters). He was very patient with my series of e-mails and provided me with dimensioned diagrams and the following technical specifications: The filters do all, generally, filter 7-11 microns (Guzzi calls for 10 microns) and are tested at 4 bar (58 psi). Guzzi FI runs 3 bar +/- 0.2 (41 - 46 psi). So, filtration and pressure should be covered. This brings us to the issues of surface area and flow rate. The "Nissan" filter ( Purolator F43178) has 630cm2 surface area and flows 24 gallons per hour (the OEM Weber has 1200 cm2 and probably flows more like 45 gph). Remember that the closed loop FI flows unused fuel back to the tank through the pressure adjuster on the right side of the tank so that the majority of fuel flowed is not injected but returned. If you fit the "Nissan" filter it is much shorter and requires a longer fuel line from the pump. In searching for a longer filter for increased flow and surface area I found the following alternatives (again, Purolator numbers): F54718 used on Dodge Dakota V6/V8 is longer and has a bracket to be removed. More expensive due to the bracket ($11US) F67221 is LAZER welded to hold 300 psi, flows 45 gph and has 580 cm2 surface area. It is 5 3/4 inches long and should be the closest in overall dimension to the Weber. I'm not sure what its application is but I will check and post back. (Around $8 compared to the Weber from Guzzi at $33US). The F67221 is a better choice than the"Nissan" (F43178) due to its strength and dimension (may still require a longer fuel line). They'll probably both work just fine. Realize that less surface area means shorter service interval. Guzzi says 12000miles so a 6000 mile interval is extremely conservative for the smaller filter. If you made it this far on this post, congatulations, you are now a 'certifiable' techno-head!

The ongoing saga of the "11 speed" Guzzi box: returning from an agressive 640 mile ride I must find a dealer to inspect the function of the gearbox. So many times the box 'passes ' a gear upshifting. Especially in the higher RPM when trying to keep acceleration. Now. on this ride, I discover the same malady downshifting. Very dangerous approaching a decreasing radius switchback in the mountains with other riders behind to downshift out of gear not knowing what gear the box will engage once coaxed into any availabe cog. I have tried all techniques of preloading, aggressive shifting, linkage adjustments, pawl engagment adjustment, oil change, moly additive, clutch service, RPM matching. I say it 'passes' a gear because I have found it to engage the next gear( down or up ) by going 'back' for it. Forcing the the shift further 'skips' a gear. Something is allowing the mechanism to 'overtravel' and miss the next gear in the sequence. This is a hard concept to express in words. Try this: if your box hits false neutral, shift back the opposite way and see if it engages the gear you were intending. A couple of questions: first, is there any possibillity the return spring is causing this? Second, have the part numbers for the return spring changed over the four year production of the 6-speed gearbox? Your help is ever appreciated. I must do something to solve this as the failure to shift reliably threatened the safety of myself and other riders.

After this weekend ride my BT 020 front will be ready for the ashcan. What do you guys think of running this new Michelin ST with the 160/60 BT 020 rear?