docc

Cavemen and spacemen have this in common: Carburettors or FI , tuning fuel delivery is like conducting an orchestra. Let the brass get too loud and the strings change their tune. All must be in harmony. I can't imagine the frustration of riding the V11 without the benefits of a digital multimeter, mercury columns and a book or two. ( see "Guzziology" by Dave Richardson) A little tweak on the TPS, some VERY careful synchronization and this motor is a ripping panther!

My 2000 sport is offset 40 mm also. I wonder about the 2002 and newer?

Bruce, That's it. Rotate the shaft and note the movement in the linkage. Go for center. Thought about your clutch jumping into engagement as I rode today. Off day for me as I missed gears all day. Grrr! The six-speeder just doesn't want to hurry. You might want to bleed the clutch fluid if that's over 6000 miles. Later, docc

My information (albeit, translated loosely from the Italian) says my 2000 V11port has 1471 mm wheelbase, 25 degree caster and 92 mm trail. The current breed is1490 mm , 25 degree caster and 104 mm trail. How did they change the trail that much without changing the caster angle? Or are there vagueries in the numbers?

Bruce, Those 'nuts' lock the shaft that centers the throw of the shifting pawl inside the side case. The top nut is just a cap that seals the oil in. the inner nut jams the shaft which has a screw slot in it. Both nuts require standard crush washers. They are also so close to the shifter boss that you will need a 19 mm 'crow's foot' to get a good purchase without removing the exhaust cross-over. The shaft moves the foot lever up and down. It only rotates maybe 60 degrees and , therefor is fairly sensitive. Watch the movement of the dog bolted directly to the shaft to center the throw. Then be sure your foot lever doesn't foul the frame in downshift. Change the length of the linkage if necessary. Grease all the pivot points while your at it. That said, the hesitant engagement sounds more like a clutch issue. My 2000 V11 Sport has done that 'jump into the next gear' thing in the past. Lately, I've been more deliberate about allowing the rpm to drop before releasing the clutch. It just takes an instant but seems to provide much more consistent shifts with the 11 speed ( 6 forward, 5 neutrals). Hope this is what you were looking for, docc

Where are the marks? Are they visible without any dissassmbly?

Juicing up the springs seems like good advice. I'm wonderng, then, if the rear will be all out of sorts? Can I get a better spring for my "sux?" (Oh, it's true - I looked very closely and - bummer - It's not a WP, but "Sachs." Did anyone really get a WP rear shock??

OK , i know it's a small thing but does the Stucchi weigh less than the stocker ? And how much less? (Mistrals weigh 10 lbs less!)

Mike, glad to hear you're getting the bike dialed in! What rear tire size and tire pressures are you running? Ride well, docc

It is notable that the 'hopefully ' dry clutch is in that husing. When my 00sport weped gearoil there it wet the clutch. 6 weeks and Guzzi replaced the seal and the clutch and pressure plate (at 4300 miles). If you're out of warranty it might be worth fixing before it craps out the clutch.

E-mail Dan Prunuske at Design Tech Engineering dan@dpguzzi.com He just sent me a bank of Bosch relays for my sport at $3.25 each. Always nice to do business with another Guzzi enthusiast. Good luck, docc

just a casual obsevation but it appeaers the 'sports' don't vapor lock like the 'LeMans.' Is this just an air flow issue?

After my own idiotic experience , then draining my tank on the 2000 V11 Sport, it refilled with 5.1 US gallons. This is without clicking and coaxing in any extra as I always end up spilling fuel doing that. Of course, as Al says, you can't get all of that fuel back out under normal circumstances. In another idiotic circumstance I found that when the bike begins to sputter (miles from a gas station) flicking it side to side apparently sloshes a little more trapped fuel down to the pick-up propelling the the poor,dry beast a little further before sputtering again. This embarassing procedure can be carried on repeatedly and, with luck, some source of fuel will appear on the horizon.

If the leak is gear oil and left side, check where the shafts penetrate the side case. One is visible below the starter but the other is behind it. If they're wet. clean with a q-tip and sol;vent, seal with a good RTV silicone.

Sure you can crank up the preload and even the damping but Jason's right :the spring is probably still too soft unless you're a real flyweight. Which shock is fitted to your sport?

The synchronization (especially) and the break-in are both going to smooth out your V11. Yet the 00 sport was notorious for the vibration especially in the left grip. Damping with bar end mirrors makes a huge diffference. Check out the threads on that approach.

Did you fuse a hot wire straight from the battery? 18 guage is big enough?

Carl, Thanks for being so kindly persistent with the truth about the relay. I've the tank coming off soon for a fuel filter and plan to add the relay then. No question you are right about the switch not being up to the draw. Especially not as much as I blow the trumpets! Thanks again! docc

Acid test: Today led 9 bikes on 350 miles. Four dogs in all : Two changed direction, two stopped and cowered from the sound of the Fiamms. I say "bravo."

I need to check the amperage on the left hot lead as it appears the horns are wired in series (why else would the right quit with the left unplugged?) I'm sure the amperage will be higher. But even if it doubles, that's about one amp. Loud horns, good: maybe scare off dogs. Loud horns, bad: wife only allows about three amperage readings of sustained blast.

Rats! Now I'm really confusede@! I got the Fiamms from the local Advanced Auto (about $25). I figured to just hook'em up on the stock wires and see (hear) what they sound like. Like a Cadillac! The squeakers say "12v, 3 a, 105db". The Fiamms say"132 db" with no amperage claim. So I wire in a digital amp meter in series with the hot to the right horn. Followed shortly by the confusion. Blowing the horns amperage starts about 2.0 and drops OFF to about 0.5 amps. I tried unhooking the left horn but then the right would not blow by itself. If the amperage is really that low then they pull no more than the 3 amps stamped on the squeakers. WHAT GIVES??

Carl, Well said. I have to agree with you on the horns. Last year I got flipped off the bike by a BIG dog. Since then I #1, STOP ( not just slow) for dogs and #2, use the horns copiously. You'd think they wouldn't like the 'squeakers' but the noise just seems to draw them closer like they think it's a mouse and would be fun to play with or eat.

Carl, I'm assuming the stock 'sqeekers' work through the switch with no relay? I was thinking of sourcing Fiamms at the local 'Ad vanced' if they're all the same. My '89 Taurus wagon had Fiamms. They'd work, yes? Probably way cheap from the bone-yard.

The bag of Siemans relays we all have jerked out of our bikes: are they good for anything? Can they be used as a horn relay? EDIT/ April 2007: The Siemans lasted for about three years and starting giving up. I'm trying the Bosch now . EDIT/ Sept 2009: The Bosch have outlasted the FIAMMS.

40 minutes south of Nashville off I-65. Let's ride! Check your pm. docc