docc

It seems with the kind of wear implied in just a couple thousand miles these motors would be blowing significant smoke on start - up.

You could always thin it with a little Schlitz.

Pretty sure V11 Sport/LM has different valves than the 1100 Sport/Spot 1100. Smaller for one thing. Have there been problems with the V11 or just the Sport 1100 motors? Also is this one shop the only one in the world who's seeing soft valves?

If the bike low sided on the right (?) and bent the right bar, what's the chance the lever has rammed the master cylinder giving the drag? On the estimate I think you ought to let the shop put all the parts it can justify on the estimate. Then source parts through the board and wrench it yourself, ( it's working for me). The Asphalt Rub-Club

nothing worse than bringing up the Schlitz

Agreed on the throttle body balancing. Also to balance "off idle" like 2500-3000 rpm. Dave Richardson's Guzziology has agood TB balancing procedure . Also, he recommends a 'jam nut' on the thumb wheel to keep the linkage in place. You would think that particular shop would be using those procedures. Nuthin' happier than a Guzzi twin with perfect sync.

good news!

Good news or bad news? It will be good news if you look at the linkage and find something rattled loose. Good then! Just put it back together! After all, these things do vibrate a bit and you may have been vibrating yours more than most. The bad news is the shift springs are made of glass. ( OK, well, they're not, but maybe they'd be happier if we shifted them like they were.) The side case is very accessible and the springs are inexpensive. Not uncommon for the return spring to break ( maybe more on the '02?) just like on the early 5-speed Eldorado (850GT).

For over three years, almost 30,000 miles, I've been searching for the world's foremost expert on the Guzzi 6-speed. I've found it and . . . it's us! A brief history of my 6- speed gearbox(es): 4000 miles, 2 month service for leaky front seal and complete clutch replacement. 16,500 miles , 3 month service for left side leak which turned out to be a cracked main case at the top frame mount ( box out of the bike three times and completely disassembled twice, once to reseal all the mating surfaces with Yamabond and once for the new set of cases). Tranny false neutralled intensely after that service and leaked from the left side shift plate shaft bosses which penetrate the left side case, one above the other behind the starter. Tried absolutely everything to correct the lost shifting. 27,000 miles every gearoil change shows metallic fuzz on the magnetic plug. False neutral becomes a way of life. I make final warranty claim and my dealer advises me he's out of the business. He handles my claim anyway and advises MG-US that a complete gearbox is the only satisfactory solution. Five months and over eighty e-mails later there is a fresh, new complete gearbox in my sport. Now, a couple observations right off the bat: if the bike weren't worth it I'd have quit a long time ago. So, this is no rant. "Just the facts, Ma'am." Second, I believe we will develop the 6-speed into an imminently servicable , reliable unit. Much like guzzisti have done for the shift-drum 5-speeder. Now, just a few observations : The box volume is tight. If your fluid volume is too high it will mist the vent on the back right of the box and, potentially, push the other seals. Get a volumetric cylinder and give it the exact fill capacity ( 850ml). Don't use the sight glass for this. Use a synthetic or semisynthetic. Not for the lubricity, as any seasoned oil threader will tell you 'dino goo' is just as good. No, it's because the synthetics have very limited heat lability. They don't 'cook off' like the dino oils. Less evaporative loss, if you will. Cleaner vent and lower case pressure when hot. Change the gear oil when you change the motor oil. ( maybe around 3000 miles instead of 6000 miles). Seal the bosses where the shift plate shafts penetrate the side left case behind the starter. Swab the bosses with a high flash point solvent and seal with high temperature RTV silicone. If you wheelstand the bike or it 'shift-slams' you may be in for case cracks. This is , perhaps, more likely on the red frame sports as ( I believe) '02 and later bikes have frame members from the rear lower subframe to the engine case. The new gearbox just installed on my sport has a different sealing agent. It is black , thick and rubbery. My original box was sealed with a brown, thin compound that I swear was olive oil based. I am hoping the new black sealant is as good as the Yamabond my dealer used as it formed a good tight bond. OK, even I'm dizzy now .

Ah, yes. Welcome to 'Murphy's Garage.' A sort of twilight zone place where you can drop a washer and it violates basic laws of thermodynamics by vanishing without a trace. A place where space and time are altered to an extent that your brandy new, late model Guzzi can become a restoration project. Repeat after me: wrench - ride - drink - -

David, I put a 7.5a fuse in line from the battery to my two separate Siemans relays on their way to the Fiamms. Horns mounted on the original brackets, relays along the right side of the spine connected to the original wires from the switch. I, too, started with a 5a in line but kept smokin' em

I found my y2k Sport runs fine with the Mistrals ( Guzzi 'off-road') cans and K&N. Be sure you have good synch, valve adjustment and the TPS is in range. Maybe on the high side, but in range. So many complaints of 'cough-n-die' syndrome. Try backing the air screws out to a full turn. Sure stabilizes the idle. I guess it could make the idle lean so maybe not a good idea if you're sitting in traffic all the time.

Al, Ive been running a pair of Fiamms through two ( one each to have redundant systems) of the siemens relays wired through to the battery. The 7.5 amp fuse has held up to some repeated and sustained use. The only thing that bothers me is the stack of terminals on the battery posts.

Guzzi racing . . . yes! DAYTONA?!? YES YES

Has anyone found a simple paint to match the matte silver of the early sports? The stuff seems pretty durable but with the sport all torn down, a little touch up would not be a bad idea.

Carl, That Ducati lever is just the 'hand lever' with none of the pivots or adjusting mechanism? Does it have the bronze looking finish and fit right? thanks , docc

The most common seems to be the connections to the battery itself. Make sure they are snugged up well.

After a careful disassembly of the hand levers I am finding the cadmium plated pivot pins suffer a good bit of wear, and are commonly caked up with dry crud. There are three pivot surfaces in each lever and you will find them much happier all clean with a light coat of, say, Bel-Ray waterproof grease. Be aware of the coil springs and the little bearings that activate the microswitches (don't take them apart in a dark gravel driveway). And note that the stamped nuts that hold the main pivot pins are often loose. From an ergonomic standpoint , levers are often aligned more horizontal than would be ideal. The angle of the levers down from the bar should be along a line drawn from the shoulder through the wrist. This will angle the levers down substantially and take out the angulation of the tendons in the back of the wrist and hand.

It occurred to me while polishing the frame welds on the sport ( yeah, you're lucky if you can ride yours) that many cannot fathom that everyday people are allowed to own motorcycles. And that without a substantial dose of moral responsibilty these evil conveyances of carnal desires ( well, the Sports anyway, maybe not the serene and mature LeMans) are a scourge of society and should be banned.

That's not actually paint, but enigma.

I'm glad Max didn't ask anything emotionally charged or controversial like, " where should I put my turn signals?"

Who needs a horn when you've got a Spandau mounted between the clip-ons? That would lend a real retro look and harken back to Carlo's early days with Ravelli at the stick.

No, but I, er , made this digitally remasterd sketch:

Many thanks to Pete Roper, down-under Guzzi guru from the Wildgoose board. My dealer assured me the procedure to change the gearbox is to sling the bike to the ceiling and lower the driveline out of it. Pete had put me on to the technique of tipping the frame forward ( "crabbing") for access to the box and the clutch. I chocked the front wheel in a 'sport chock' and strapped the frame to the ceiling. After releasing the rear frame elements and loosening the front frame bolts , the engine could be supported on a broad support under the sump while the frame is tilted up to expose the gearbox, and thereafter, the clutch. Once the new gearbox was in place the frame was tilted back down and buttoned back up. Much less hassle than splitting the frame off the driveline and disconnecting all the harness, lines and cables.

We've all been so respectful to one another on this board. Here we are from all over the world, in so many different cultures and political climates and yet we come together to enjoy these motorcycles and help one another enjoy them to the maximum! Here in Tennessee there are so many armed that if it were that great a threat we would all be dead already. Opening fire on the neighbor (or his dogs) is not very commonplace. The pepper spray in the tankbag is surely a good 'training method.' And the subject of horns will probably always bring up the subject of dogs. I know of riders killed or injured by fur magnetics. The stock 'squeekers' just seem to cry out, "here boy! Something fun to play with!" The black Fiamms in the stock location don't seem too obtrusive for the added safety and effectiveness.