docc

Absotively, posilutely, cannot go wrong.

Dave, Glad to see you made it over here! These folks really know their sports and LeMans. When you bring that bike home you are likely to be back on here. Sorting, fettling as well as hobnobbing ,cohorting and otherwise hanging out with the enlightened. Ride well, docc

I seem to have found another simple source for shift problems on the sport. During routine maintenence I disassembled the clutch lever and found the pivot pin all grunged up and even gauled. I polished it out with 400 grit paper and regeased it all with BelRay waterproof grease. The pull is MUCH smoother and lighter. I can imagine the lever not fully releasing from a condtion like this contributing to the kind of 'jumping into gear' symptoms as Bruce has described. At least on the sport the pivot is well out in the weather and deserves a good cleaning and lubrication. (watch out for the tiny button that activates the microswitch as it likes to fall out and roll away to a far corner of the garage.)

Just got my V11 Sport Official Factory Manual. It states the CO to be 3.5 - 4.5 which covers your dealer's advice. I see I am running my TPS a little rich and the air bypass out to a full turn. Certainly not 'by the book' but the plug color is good , bike runs great and 34-38mpg. Lots of disagreement as to the procedure for setting the TPS. Just what is the relationship between 'degrees of opening' and 'millivolts?' (BTW, my dealer refused to check the CO as the taps are prone to stripping the header. Makes me wonder where in the world it's set and how to have it checked.)

Moto Guzzi? ? Dry clutch is a good clutch!

I get it ,Al. That makes sense since in normal operation the pump will stop whirring when the pressure comes up. So, Wanie, listen for the pump because the relays will often work again after sitting for a little while. Much luck and good riding, docc

Just finished wiring in a pair of the Siemen's relays for the Fiamms. Mounted the relays in tandem along the right side of the frame roouting the stockhorn wires carefully over to them. Wired 14 guage from the battery trough a fuse holder with a cap on it. Use heat shrink and zip ties all along the existing wiring harness. Made up two separate harnesses with a ground (from the right side fuel pump bolts) and the hot from each relay down to the horns (again, heatshrink , zip ties and dielectric grease). Now if one relay fritzes I have a redundant system. That and the 14 guage wire should be a satisfying overkill worthy of being on a Guzzi. Currently using 5 amp fuse. may go up to 7.5 amps if necessary. Biggest drawback to this install method was increased cost: wire, connectors, solder, heat shrink, fuse holder, fuses, zip ties , dielectric grease probably added $25- $30 to my $25 horns. But, hey, these things work GREAT and my switch is safe (saved by Carl!). ps: no surprise the 5 amp fuse wasn't up to the task, gone after 4 honks. Now running a 7.5 amp with several good sustained blows including one trying to convince a chasing dog that I was a one ton truck. I want the minimum fuse size and will post back if I have to move up to a 10amp. Edit ( 12-21-2003); The 7.5 amp fuse carries both of the Fiamms under extensive use. Changed the Seimans relays for Bosch.

I am wondering how one would differentiate "vapor lock" from, say, faulty relay? Both tend to cause the intermittent restart fault. From the history on these bikes it's good practice to be sure the relays are upgraded to the Bosch units before launching into a misguided diagnosis.

Ray, Was your bearing failure on the brake side?

Chasing a change in fuel delivery with changes to the ignition timing will likely be a can of worms. Before changing the ignition make sure the TPS is correctly set (a liitle to the high side) and perfect sychronization. CO of '4' seems a bit high. I'll have to check around but I seem to recall 3.4-3.5 as more typical. Good luck, docc

Early brackets were aluminum and prone to failure. Your replacements should be steel and will do fine.

With some careful sanding and measuring, I made a good set of spacers 17mm longer than stock, added 5wt Silkolene oil ( the most beautiful blue liquid I've ever seen!), and mounted the forks 10mm high in the clamps. A guy working on the house saw the bike on stands, front end all apart, saying, "wow, what happened to your bike?" I said, "nothing, just routine maintenence." Then there it is again: the hairy eyeball. I guess people expect to see things apart in a shop but not in someone's garage. Rich, better go ahead and make those tomatoe stakes out of your spare Guzzi parts. ( Are these bikes wonderful, or what?)

Carl, I ver muust enjoyed the roughly translated geometrikit deskribing the changes to V11 handling. I'll have to see if Konrad can help me out (I get "untersteuern" but " gevichsterlagerung??") And the 25 degrees? This is a myth? Like the 91 horsepower, 471 pounds and 5.8 gallon tank? Oh, and the speedometer that reads rather in excess of reality. ( if you average the extreme sweep of the oscillations).

They seem to kind of glaze when I say " MO'- to GOOT'-see" in my best Italian lilt. That and "schedule 40PVC" in the same sentence and their brain just shorts out. You can smell the neurons burning. The PVC is stouter than the stock spacers. If I can just get a good square cut on the stuff. The forks are apart now. The oil that came out was certainly begging to be changed. Rich, thanks for the encouragement! docc

Mike, When you say 10 mm "on top of the triple clamp" I assume you have dropped the clamp on the forks that amount? I would have thought dropping the clamps would STEEPEN the rake. How are you measuring that angle? My forks are on the bench. Wrestling with the dismantle. Changing spacer (hopefully) and oil (5 wt Silkolene). Maybe better springs next tme around.

Can you help me get my spacer off? I have taken the cartridge-spring assembly out of the fork slider. It appears the top cap should unscrew from the blue anodized stop just above the spring. I applied some considerable torque with no sign of it coming loose. The stock spacer appears to be a black plastic affair so I have more confidence using Rich's schedule 40 1" PVC. (Everyone I've suggested this to has given me the hairy eyeball.) Hoping my service manual will arrive in the mail tomorrow (dreamer). In the meantime, flying blind. Thanks for the consideration, docc

Cavemen and spacemen have this in common: Carburettors or FI , tuning fuel delivery is like conducting an orchestra. Let the brass get too loud and the strings change their tune. All must be in harmony. I can't imagine the frustration of riding the V11 without the benefits of a digital multimeter, mercury columns and a book or two. ( see "Guzziology" by Dave Richardson) A little tweak on the TPS, some VERY careful synchronization and this motor is a ripping panther!

My 2000 sport is offset 40 mm also. I wonder about the 2002 and newer?

Bruce, That's it. Rotate the shaft and note the movement in the linkage. Go for center. Thought about your clutch jumping into engagement as I rode today. Off day for me as I missed gears all day. Grrr! The six-speeder just doesn't want to hurry. You might want to bleed the clutch fluid if that's over 6000 miles. Later, docc

My information (albeit, translated loosely from the Italian) says my 2000 V11port has 1471 mm wheelbase, 25 degree caster and 92 mm trail. The current breed is1490 mm , 25 degree caster and 104 mm trail. How did they change the trail that much without changing the caster angle? Or are there vagueries in the numbers?

Bruce, Those 'nuts' lock the shaft that centers the throw of the shifting pawl inside the side case. The top nut is just a cap that seals the oil in. the inner nut jams the shaft which has a screw slot in it. Both nuts require standard crush washers. They are also so close to the shifter boss that you will need a 19 mm 'crow's foot' to get a good purchase without removing the exhaust cross-over. The shaft moves the foot lever up and down. It only rotates maybe 60 degrees and , therefor is fairly sensitive. Watch the movement of the dog bolted directly to the shaft to center the throw. Then be sure your foot lever doesn't foul the frame in downshift. Change the length of the linkage if necessary. Grease all the pivot points while your at it. That said, the hesitant engagement sounds more like a clutch issue. My 2000 V11 Sport has done that 'jump into the next gear' thing in the past. Lately, I've been more deliberate about allowing the rpm to drop before releasing the clutch. It just takes an instant but seems to provide much more consistent shifts with the 11 speed ( 6 forward, 5 neutrals). Hope this is what you were looking for, docc

Where are the marks? Are they visible without any dissassmbly?

Juicing up the springs seems like good advice. I'm wonderng, then, if the rear will be all out of sorts? Can I get a better spring for my "sux?" (Oh, it's true - I looked very closely and - bummer - It's not a WP, but "Sachs." Did anyone really get a WP rear shock??

OK , i know it's a small thing but does the Stucchi weigh less than the stocker ? And how much less? (Mistrals weigh 10 lbs less!)

Mike, glad to hear you're getting the bike dialed in! What rear tire size and tire pressures are you running? Ride well, docc